I pulled my boat (with the trim down) out of my garage (with a 2" drop from the floor to the driveway) and broke my skeg, along with a nice plastic (yea, plastic) prop.. Anyway I read thru a search and found a (incompleate discription of a) DIY skeg replacement (involving making a template and having a machine shop bending the metal). Does anyony have any info on a DIY (besides a pre made skeg gaurd) gaurd? I have a machine shop nearby that does reasonable work and would like to put them to use. This is a fishing boat project and I do not wish to sink the 100 bucks in a skeg gaurd (but I hate looking at the broken one).
I watched that project on DIY - a Skeggard has got to be a lot cheaper and is without question, a LOT easier.DIY WayFirst, you have to buy a replacement skeg from one of only a handful of companies that even make them. Then you need to cut saw-tooth patterns on both your I/O skeg and the replacement skeg and make sure they are an excellent fit when you're done. Then you need to bring it to a shop and have it specialty welded. Then you have to grind it all down and paint it. Oh, and did I mention you have to pull off your I/O, and break it in half to do all this work? And, because of all the heat generated you need to be careful you don't damage your lower half.According to Shipshape boating on DIY you cant weld straight across as it will quickly fail.FORGETABOUTIT! When I watched the show I laughed at how difficult they were making what is a very simple repair. SkEGGARD wayFOr $100 + 5 minutes (really, 5 minutes) you can have a new polished stainless steel skeg. You slip it on, drill through the already existing holes in the Skeggard with a 1/4" bit. Put some included loctite on the included fasteners, slip them through the holes, tightent them, and you are done.I put Skeggards on my twins. It took less than 10 minutes total and they look really nice! You can find them on eBay if they aren't here on iBoats. Just use the link below and search for "Skeg"http://listings.ebaymotors.com/pool1/plistings/list/all/category26443/index.html?from =R11
My local repair shop will replace your skeg for about the same price 90-100 bucks (less if you pull the lower unit). The problem I see w/ the (skeggard) is that if you hit something again your likely to damage the propshaft housing. Those holes that you drill are real close to the housing, and in my opinion could shear off at the screws and possibly damage your lower unit. No experience w/ this setup, just my opinion.
The Skeg guards mount with shear fastners designed to break if you hit something thereby preventing any lowr unit damage. The holes for the fasteners are like 2 - 3" below the shaft housing which is why you need about that much of your skeg remaining to use them. I would think the chances of damaging your lower unit are less with this approach than with a solid, properly welded skeg.Your local shop will do all that work for $100 - remove the I/O, break it, cut the saw tooths, weld, grind paint and remoun the I/O? not bad. I wouldn't.
90-100 dollars was from about 6 years ago. I'm sure the price has gone up, but I'd pay more to have, as you put it RS, " a solid, properly welded skeg" The original set-up is designed to work or we wouldn't be having this discussion. Again, this is just my opinion.
I don't know, a lot of people here have had a lot of success with them (that's how I found out about them) and because they are solid stainless steel they are stronger and look better. They are an exact duplicate shape and size wise of the aluminum skeg... I use them and am really happy with them. FOr a $100 and 5 minuets work you can't beat em. JMHO.
total agreement here with the skeg guard. Bought one myself this summer ($99US), and it looks, and works great. And it comes with a set of extra sheerpins if you do sheer if off again, the believe being that if you're in shallow enough water to loose it in the first place, you may find it again too To weld the skeg properly, the lower drive SHOULD be disassembled to prevent damage to the seals, so with labour for that and the welding, you are usually looking at $3-400 minimum to repair it. And remember, the skeg guard is meant for use on GOOD skegs too, just to protect them.
I'm in salt and have SGs on my Twins - no problems at all. Like john said they are 100% SS.jstamatov, You have to just bend the skeg straight or you can even just cut off the bent portion. They are Aluminum so you should be able to straighten it pretty easily.
There certainly are dissimilar metals.stainless skeggard on an alum outdrive.Same as the problems related to a stainless prop on alum outdrive.Putting the boat in Salt water is one thing and keeping it in salt water is a completely different thing.I am concerned with setting up a potential problem.I keep it in salt water from May until the end of October.Thats a lot of time for damage.Charlie
CC, Kinda like your trim anchor pins and all the other hardware on your I/O which are all SS and cause no problems. I'm not exactly sure why but I have a few theories. You can ask skeggard directly (www.skeggard.com)
Ralph,do you keep your boat in salt water or do you trailer it??My zincs are pretty used up by the end of the season and i dont think it would be wise to add any additional stainless if i can help it.But it sure would be nice to have 2 shiny new skegs on the back of my boat. charlie
This year I am trailering because I need the boat close to finish all the work. Next year i'll moore it.The SGs are REALLY nice and they saved my skegs Saturday when I hit bottom coming in at dead low. Not a single mark on them. They have a skid plate on the bottom for just that kind of mistake.Call Skeggard and tell them about your concern I am sure they can address it. They are great people to work with and have lots of experience (it's all they do).
jstamatov: I managed to straighten mine out (before I lost it for good by hitting it with a rubber mallet. It went right back into shape.It was bent about 2 inches originally. If you think it might break, just be sure there's still 3 inches of skeg left, that's all you need for skeg guard.