1976 mercruiser 233 ignition help please

[moparfan]

I need help fixing what a "mobile mechanic" tried to fix on my boat please.
Long story short: PO put the battery conections on wrong at the solenoid and starter, fried starter,battery,coil and condensor.

I bought the pertronix kit to convert it after I got the starter and solenoid and coil replaced. I have a yellowish wire that has 12volts switched and I found a tan wire labeled resistor. I ohm'd out the resistor wire and it was good,connected on the S terminal of the solenoid but if it tie the Yellow wire with the positive wire from the coil and red off the ignitor,as soon as i turn the key it starts cranking( not in the start position). I thought I must have a bad switch so i got a new one and it does the same thing. I know something has to be off but i can't figure it out. Anybody have some pointers?

[haulnazz15]

The tan wire shouldn't be going to the S post on the terminal. It should only be used in the run position, not the start position. In any case, I would verify that your Pertronix unit/coil need the resistor wire, because mine didn't. I ended up running the full 12V from the white wire which runs to the electric choke.

[moparfan]

The tan wire shouldn't be going to the S post on the terminal. It should only be used in the run position, not the start position. In any case, I would verify that your Pertronix unit/coil need the resistor wire, because mine didn't. I ended up running the full 12V from the white wire which runs to the electric choke.

Thanks for the info!

So should the tan go to the "I" terminal on the solenoid then? I was thinking that like with points that it was supposed to get 12v at start up and drop to 5 after starting.
My kit had a wiring diagram including a ballast resistor going in line with the positive on the coil,that is what is confusing me.

[haulnazz15]

Your thinking is correct, 12V @ start, lower V @ run. However, the Pertronix kits sometimes require 12V without the ballast resistor. You'd have to read up on your Pertronix product and the coil you used. I replaced the distributor on my 233 with a Pertronix distributor/flame thrower coil, and it didn't require the resistor, so I cut the tan wire and disconnected it from the solenoid completely. Just make sure you have the right wires for your application.

The only thing that should energize the "s" post is the wire coming from the "start" position of the ignition key. At least that's my recollection anyhow, lol.

[moparfan]

Your thinking is correct, 12V @ start, lower V @ run. However, the Pertronix kits sometimes require 12V without the ballast resistor. You'd have to read up on your Pertronix product and the coil you used. I replaced the distributor on my 233 with a Pertronix distributor/flame thrower coil, and it didn't require the resistor, so I cut the tan wire and disconnected it from the solenoid completely. Just make sure you have the right wires for your application.

The only thing that should energize the "s" post is the wire coming from the "start" position of the ignition key. At least that's my recollection anyhow, lol.

I'll give the tech line for pertronix a call and find out if it does require the 12v constantly. Thanks again for all your help!

[haulnazz15]

I'm pretty sure the Pertronix unit needs a constant 12V, the ballast resistor is only dependent on whether the coil you purchased requires one. If it does, then leave the tan wire as it is, and find a constant 12V wire for the dizzy. The negative side should obviously be from the coil.

[Don S]

Here is your wiring diagram. It might help.

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