Tough one on a Johnson FastStrike 150 (GLERA150)

[GunnerO]

Big time problems with this motor. It starts, runs, then dies and won't restart. After sitting a while it'll go through that same series of events. When it's in the "won't start" mode, it isn't getting any fire. I finally took it to a mechanic and he can't figure it out either. He initially thought it was a wire problem, so he hooked it up to a remote harness. The same thing happened. He pulled the fly wheel and noted that it was very rusty and corroded - thought maybe that could be causing the problem. Does that sound like it could be possible? The motor has a new stator, powerpack, and regulator/rectifier.

Any ideas out there on this one?

[clanton]

What are your test results for?

Charge coil output.
Power coil output.
Pack output to ignition coil.
Timer sensor checked.
Upper main bearing good.

[SparkieBoat]

your electronics have to be tested with a DVA adapter and a good quality multi meter..link for a cheap DVA adapter is in my sig below...a free troubleshooting guide is also included in the other link.

[boobie]

Did you replace the osi sensor ??

[GunnerO]

Did you replace the osi sensor ??

I haven't; I don't think my Mechanic did either. I had asked him about that and he didn't seem to think that was the problem, due to the fact that the motor would run and only stop once it warmed up a little.

[boobie]

Been there and done that and have heard of other guys having the same prob where the osi sensor cured it.

[GunnerO]

Right about now I'm open to trying anything. I'll get with the Mechanic and ask him to give it a whirl. If nothing else it'll eliminate that as a potential issue. Thanks for the suggestion!

[SparkieBoat]

you can keep changing parts or just do the test....easier and cheaper to test...just sayin

[GunnerO]

I agree SparkieBoat - that's why it's in the shop now. I hate to admit it but testing the various electronic components is a stretch beyond my capabilities. The mechanic who has it now said he ran several tests but couldn't find anything wrong. I don't know if he checked the optical sensor (or if it can even be checked) but after reading several posts on various websites it seems to be a likely culprit. That said, I also read everything from "This is a 15 minute fix that can be done on the water", to "After replacing an optical sensor, it is absolutely essential to reset your timing before running your motor".

Since the mechanic (who should absolutely know more than me) can't seem to nail the problem down, I'll suggest the optical sensor to him again. He initially said, "They either work or they don't - there's no inbetween". However I've read where this isn't always the case. Hopefully this will fix the problem!

[boobie]

If the sensor doesn't fix it and if the mechanic is a good one he should take it back off and not charge you for it and just consider it it as a piece of test equipment. The tester OMC made for the sensor never did work right so if I thought it was the sensor I'd just try a new one.

[SparkieBoat]

the sensor is the only part that cannot be accurately tested..boobie is correct..any real mechanic will keep a good one on hand for testing purpose. if every thing else test out ok with DVA, then try a sensor. and yes timing is critical and needs to be checked/set afterwards. I have a optical sensor you could try if you are anywhere near Savannah GA. hopefully you got a decent mechanic..there seems to be way too many complete morons/crooks out there in the business..you have to background check any outboard mechanic.
I am no pro but I could probably have your motor running tip top in a few hours or less.

[clanton]

Common problem with this engine, cold engine starts and runs fine, engine warms up, starts to misfire or stops completely. The problem is heat, when the pack and sensor get hot it quits working.

[GunnerO]

Wish I lived near Savannah - I'd definately look you up. You're right in that there are many morons/crooks out there but the mechanic I'm working with seems to be on top of his game. He's going to try a new sensor, but only after telling me, "I don't want to just throw parts at it if they don't need to be replaced". We'll see what happens.

[mattrich]

im having the same problem with my 150 faststrike, starts runs then kills and get no fire wait an hour or so and fires back up, did your mechanic ever solve the problem? just wondering before i bring it to shop and change unnecessary parts also. thanks

[stylesabu]

even without a manual, you c\an take reading of components, and if readings change when things get hot. your guy isn't that good, digital pyrometer and an ohm meter will find your faulty component, and cooling it down once you find the suspect, will confirm your findings

[boobie]

There comes a time when " you have to throw parts at it " just to find the prob.

[clanton]

I have not seen any results of testing with a meter posted. Stator and pack easy test. Regulator not to bad to test, Timming sensor just replace new, unless you have a scope. You have to test, cold engine at cranking rpms, and warm engine, with engine running.

[GunnerO]

Mattrich,

It was the optical sensor. Once my mech changed that out it's been working like a charm. Good luck with yours!

GunnerO

[SparkieBoat]

looks like boobie nailed it right off...great job bud.