The kill switch kills the engine when the switch is activated (contacts closed). So you can defeat it by simply disconnecting the wires. I have no idea why you'd want to do that however. As for the solenoid there is no mystery. There are two large posts on the solenoid. Ford or otherwise. The positive battery cable goes to one of them. The cable from the large post on the starter goes to the other one. If the solenoid has two small posts, one of them is ground and is grounded to the engine block. If there is only one small terminal, the case of the solenoid must be grounded to the block. The other one goes to the ignition switch "S": terminal. To test the system, have someone turn the key to START while you check for voltage on the small terminal. If there is voltage at that terminal, then check the large post going to the starter. If there is voltage there the solenoid is working and the starter or the short cable is bad or the connections are not tight. If there is no voltage at that terminal, check the other large terminal. The key does not have to be in the START position for this test. If there is no voltage present, the battery is dead or the cables are bad or loose, Voltage at that terminal but not at the other large terminal with the key in the start position indicates the solenoid is bad. On the first test (key in START, testing small terminal) if you get no voltage, there is whole host of possibilities ranging from dead battery, bad battery cables, bad ignition switch, bad harness, bad connection at harness connector on the key switch or at the engine.
You don't say what year your 50 is, but you did say the safety switch is on the block. That's good enough.
:^As said, car solenoids don't work on those!
OMC solenoids have two small terminals. One is for the wire coming from the key switch. The other one goes to the safety switch. The safety switch grounds that terminal when it is safe to start the motor.
Ford solenoids look exactly the same but are different inside. On a Ford, the second small terminal goes to an ignition bypass resistor. A full 12 volt whallop is fed to that resistor when starting. If you try to use a Ford solenoid on an outboard, that full 12 volt whallop goes to the safety switch and destroys the safety switch almost immediately. No need to test it when you've done this, you've killed it.
OK, OK, yes you can use the Ford solenoid by just not connecting anything to the second small terminal and making sure the bracket is grounded. But then you don't have a safety switch in use and you can start the motor in gear at full throttle. Somebody could get killed! So don't do it - ever :%
Perhaps that's why he wants to eliminate the safety switch. The second terminal on a Ford solenoid doesn't "wallop" the ballast resistor on a car. It bypasses the resistor to provide the coil with full 12V for starting. Once running the ballast resistor drops the voltage to the coil. It would not have to be used on the outboard but you are correct in that the safety switch would be impacted if connected to that terminal.
OK, wrong choice of words. It was awful early in the mornimg when I wrote that. But the correct idea. The "whallop" goes to the coil, bypassing the resistor, that is true. My point is that it feeds a full 12 volts directly from the battery (cable), which will burn up the safety switch if applied to it.
ok thats great information! understand it a bit better.
Ok another question about this, at rest (without turning the key).. and checked with a volt meter for continuity between S, I, power to starter & ground.. what would be the results?
when i checked,
i saw that
there is continuity between ground and S, ground & I, ground & to starter, between S&I, between S&to starter, between I&to starter posts on the solenoid. this correct!?
another question.. what happens when we shut off the engine? ie. turn the key off ..engine shuts, but what triggers it and how can we test that mechanism if it is working or not.. what if the engine doesnt shut when key is turned.. where do we look first to resolve this?