Replacing water pump on 1974 85 HP Johnson outboard

[tricks4u]

I just bought an old classic 1960 flying Scott, that has been restored. Right now it has a 1974 85 HP Johnson on it that runs like a top. I did something stupid, which you may have read in another tread. I am very new with outboard motors and have never owned one. I was doing something that was suggested by the old ownerÂ’s mechanic and when I started the motor with earmuffs on it was in gear and throttled up by mistake, there is way to much play in the controls, and I thought it was in neutral. I quickly idled it down and let the carb run out of gas like I was told to do, just before it ran out of gas a alarm when off. I had read in an old Johnson forum that this engine has a low on gas alarm and an overheating alarm. From what I have been told here that is not true, it seems to only have an overheating alarm, so I must have overheated it by running it to fast with earmuffs on it. I shut it down in less than a minute from the time the alarm went off.It was recommended here that I replace the water pump. I do not have much money living on a fixed budget, so I would like to do this myself if I can. Question is if I am going to do this, is there anything else I should do while replacing the pump and is there anywhere on line that will show me how to do this? Thanks.....Tricks

[alden135]

You really ought to buy, borrow, or check out from the library, a factory service manual if you have not done one of these before. Many here have done hundreds of them and can walk you through but it may go smoother for you with the book to refer to. You can go to ishopmarine.com and see a diagram of your motor. Look under parts lists and have your model # ready (it's on a plate on the transom bracket). iboats can get you the pump should you want to order one online. We all try to buy from here first to support the site.

[DJ]

That engine does NOT have a fuel restriction alarm. You overheated it.With that, do this.1. The lower unit can be dropped by disconnecting the shift linkage under the lower carburetor.2. Remove the lower unit bolts. That includes the one above the trim tab (fin looking thing above the prop).3. Buy an OEM kit.You may want to retorque the heads. Note: the retorque numbers are INCH pounds, NOT foot pounds.Once you get it running again. Look closely at the spark plugs. A "clean" one means water ingestion. If that happens, you need to replace a head gasket-or two.

[Cricket Too]

Don't let the carbs run out of gas, and also don't listen to that mechanic anymore if he told you to do that.

[bubbakat]

web page and web page

[stan_deezy]

Good links there.Just a word of advice that I thought might be helpful to pass on........The first article talks about using petroleum jelly to lubricate the impellor (he then says not to use oil based lubricants to avoid damaging the rubber).I use KY Jelly Yeah, ok, it's a bit embarrasing asking for it in the pharmacy, but it doesn't damage rubber and it stays in place a long time.I inject the liquid KY Jelly through at the end of the season as part of the laying up process to keep the impellor protected from drying out/frost damage.Another boater near here uses "Back-to-Black" bumper trim spray (fender to the US members) and it seems to work really well too.....certainly both methods seem to increase the life of the impellors quite a bit.