I have two of six recirculation check valves located on the cylinder block. I think that's what they are call according to the illustrated parts break down pic. How do you install these valves. screw in, pull out, do you have to take the head off. I don't know and it does not say in manual. Any help would be appreciated.
Still seeking help from the iboat nation. Does anyone know how to install the recirculation check valve on a 1997 Evinrude 200 hp model E200TXEUA. I have two on the right side heads that are bad and need replacing. Has anyone replaced these before?
There are actually twelve recirc valves, six that are visible and six that are covered up by the reed blocks.
The visible ones are installed into the sides of the front crankcase half, and have recirc hoses running to the opposite cylinder nipple that is installed in the sides of the block. What I mean by that is that the hose for #1 recirc valve goes over to the nipple for #2 cylinder. Likewise, the hose for #2 recirc valve goes over to the nipple for #1 cylinder. And so on down the block.
You have to remember that the intake on these loopers crosses over in that the intake plenums for #1,3, and 5 is actually on the OPPOSITE side of the engine from the actual cylinders. Obviously the same is true for #2,4 and 6.
The six that are hidden are pressed into the front crankcase half, about the size of a dime, with a screen over the visible face.
They have an o-ring on them, and are a complex little device with front and back openings, as well as side openings. They are hard to test, and are hard to get out of the crankcase half without destroying them.
Go to shop.evinrude.com, drill into your motor parts pages, go to the cylinder and crankcase page, and they are item reference numbers 11 and 12. Eleven is the visible one with attached hoses, and twelve is the hidden one.
Thanks for the info and I understand all the information given. I could not wait so I tried to take the valve out #3. Well Like you said it is a pain now it is a bigger pain. I sprayed it down hoping to cut though any thing holding it on. let set 24 hr and repeated spraying let set 24 hrs again. Put some channel locks on it and applying slight pressure it just snapped off. The motor has been running great all season until this leak. Use to turn the key and it fired up and ran for hours on in with no problems. Tank after tank of fuel and was really enjoying the summer. Got this leaking valve were it seemed to be and easy fix. Well now I am down and out for the year. Looks like I will have to tap or press it out. I had no idea how they came out I knew were they were all located but could not find any info on how to get them out of the case.. Looks as if I have to pull the VRO and heads of to get to them. Guess it is a hard lesson learned. If anyone had this problem you might as well just go ahead and rebuild you engine while everything is off.
Just for clarification....please describe what broke off. I am not sure I am following you, especially regarding pulling the heads.
You should not have to pull the heads to fix the recirc valves.
If you can, find your engine on shop.evinrude.com, and point me to the reference part you broke.
If you truly broke a recirc valve, and just have to have the boat....heck, plug it off with something and run it.
It won't hurt anything, and you can fix it after the season.
I have pinched off the recirc lines with vise grips one at a time, just to test....and I cannot really see any difference in the idle at all.
I did it purposefully to see what the effect would be....nada.
They are Item #10 on BRP parts catalog on the net. Evinrude 1997 200 E200TXEUA The Mech called them recirculation check valves. The BRP people call them a nipple (90 degree)You were correct that they are located on the crankcase and not the head. I was seeking information on how to take them out. I talked with the Mech at the boat store and was told to get a pair of vise grips and screw them off. I did this and the nipple broke off even with the crankcase. I was pissed for what I had done. Went back to the store and the Mech there said I would have to pull the heads and it would cost me an X amount of dollars. That's when I wrote the thread which I should have never done. Still in Pissed off mode.
Cooled down and talked with a teacher at the local VoTech school. The proper way to get them off it to heat them a bit with a torch. This will break the sealant that were placed on them on install. Then with a pair of pliers pull them straight out and off. It does not take a whole lot of pressure. To install them place some permatex on the end your installing and just tap them in. (mine don't screw off)
It took about an 2 hours for most of the time was spent moving everything out of my way so I would not burn anything with the torch. I used an easy out on the one I broke off even with the crankcase. Heated it up as instructed and came out easy.
You were right on all the information you provided and got me headed in the right direction. I do thank you for sharing you knowledge. I also have learned a lesson about this local Mech. Again thank you.