1983 75 HP Evinrude Model# E75TRLCTEMotor was bogging at WOT. Checked for spark by removing lead while running. No change in idle on #1, motor almost stalls when removing #2 or #3. New plugs, no change. Changed wires, still no fire #1. Swapped ignition coils along with wiring to power pack. No change. Changed power pack, still not firing. Checked for spark by removing plug and holding with pliers while someone starts motor, no spark. Tried spraying premix into carb on #1, no change. #1 plug is wet with fuel when removed. Compression is good.One strange occurance. After swapping the powerpack with a new one, the motor would not even start. It would turn over but not start. I then tested the #1 plug wire and it was bad, it must of broke from being removed so often. When I put a new one on, the motor started right up but still no fire on #1. Strange??
Alright this is driving me crazy. Let me see if I have the ignition system theory down right. The flywheel magnets charge the charge coils, 3 on the 60-75HP models, which in turn send the voltage to the power pack which then sends the voltage to the ignition coils according to the timing. The ignition coils then amplify the charge, sending 30,000 volts to the corresponding plug for ignition. Is this correct? So in my case, does each charge coil operate one cylinder, three charge coils=three cylinders, or is the charge sent to the power pack and then split between the three cylinders? I am wondering since two cylinders are firing fine does this rule out the Charge Coil (stator plus charge coil assembly) as being the culprit.
Tried that. #1 still does not fire, others fire fine with plug, wire and coil from #1. According to the manual, I can only test the ignition components with a CD voltmeter. Why can you not use a regular voltmeter?
If you go to a radio/tv part or electronic supply store, buy a 10 ohm 10 watt ceramic resistor. You can use a regular digital volt meter for testing. The adapters that they sell for the digital meters are no more then a resistor inline on the + probe.use an aligator clip and you clip one lead of the resistor on the end of your red lead probe on your meter, then test with the other end of the resistor lead. You have to tape the bare leads real well for insulation. If you have a old test lead around, you can solder the resistor into the middle of the test lead and use it like a regular probe.That way you can read the voltage at the powerpack to ground without blowing out your meter
Johnson/Evinrude Troubleshooting Alternator Driven CD Ignitions 1978-2002 (Three Cylinder Engines ContinuedÂ…) No fire or Intermittent on One Cylinder: 1. Check the timer bases resistance from the white wire to the blue, green and purple wires. Reading should be 38-42 ohms. 2. Check the DVA output from the timer base. A reading of at least 0.5V or more from the white wire to the blue, green and purple wires (while connected to the pack) is needed to fire the pack. (need the adapter)3. Check the DVA output on the orange wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the orange wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack.
71whaler I am not trying to intrude. I wanted to subscribe to this thread. Please post your results. I am having a similiar problem on my 1972 65hp 3cyl. The problem is driving me insane. I have replaced the ignition coils(were cracked and losing spark) and power pack. Still no spark on no.2 cyl at WOT.
TR918, I finally found the problem. The timer base was bad. I ended up taking it to a local mechanic and he found that the timer base was only putting out 1 volt when it should be reading 3. If you have a manual it should explain how to test this. The only reason I didn't do it myself was that I did not have the proper voltmeter and was going away for work for a few weeks and wanted the boat done when I got back. I would advise getting a manual and following the ignition tests section. If you replaced the ignition coils and powerpack and your plugs are good then I would guess your stator or timer base but again I would do the test before replacing any more parts. Good luck.