Ignition Problem - 1973 6h.p. Evinrude

[nedarb2]

Hello Everyone!I found a old 1973 6hp evinrude on the side of the road last week, brought it home, cleaned it up, the pistons were stuck so i freed them, and just by turning the fly wheel i could easily get sparks out of the plugs. So today, a new head gasket and sparkplugs arrive, put everything back together, and try to start this lukcy find! ( im 15 and have a 14' tin boat with no moter ) So , after a couple pulls it actually catches! She purrs for about 6 or 7 seconds, and then dies. Soo, after messing around for a bit i figured out the sparkplugs were longer sparking i.e. ignition problem. With out buying a harmonic puller, is there anyway to get the fly wheel off? Can i just get 3 guys to pull on it? Thanks!

[nedarb2]

also, what do you suspect the problem may be?

[JB]

Go to the Engine FAQs, Nedarb.What happened doesn't sound like spark trouble to me, but fuel supply or fuel pump trouble.Either way, do the "wont start" troubleshooting and let us know what you find.Good luck, and welcome to iboats.

[pinedaddy]

I always make my pullers. just made one for my seahorse 10. took a piece of paper and put it on the flywheel, tore out the center for the flywheel nut, then screwed 3 1/4 inch bolts in the 3 puller holes. Then I took the pape and used a marker to mark the holes on a 1/4 inch piece of steel. drilled the 3 holes on the marks ( a little bigger than the bolts) then put the 3 1/4 inch bolts through the holes in my plate and into the flywheel and tightened. The flywheel nut sticks up higher than the flywheel on mine giving it a place to push on. If yours doesn't you could drill a bigger hole in the middle and maybe use a 1/2" or bigger bolt and a nut to rig it up.

[nedarb2]

Hello! We took off the flywheel and exposed the ignition. The points appeared to be in very good condition, but one condensor was slightly corroded, everything else was in good condition however. We are still baffled about how both lines of sparkplugs, on two completely systems quit at the same time? Do you have any ideas on what the problem is/know of a common point of both sections? One more point, we put a shot of wd-40 into the sparkplug terminal, would that have maby casued corrosion? THank-you!

[OBJ]

Coils look OK Nedarb? No cracks in the coating around the coil?Do the points look burnt or corroded?Any oil laying about the points? The gap on the points should be .020 with the wiper arm on high cam....look on the cam..there should be "TOP" imprinted on the cam. Sometimes there will bet a little arrow or the word "SET" right next to it. Set the wiper here when adjusting gap.How are you checking spark? Taking a spark plug out and grounding it against the block and watching the gap for spark?The original condensers on these engines where fairly longer than the new ones. You could take one to a local dealer and maybe compare the ones on your engine to a new one. If there is a difference, I would probably think you still have the original point sets on the engine. If this would be the case, I would replace them. Also, some some shops can test point sets to see if they are any good. This may help you solve the problem. Just remember to take the engines model number with you. This will be needed so the correct points can be chosen. New points and condensers will run you less than $20.One more thing, pop over to the local library and see if they have any service manuals for outboards. Most libraries carry the Seloc or Clymers generic manuals but will help you in soving the problems your having.Keep in touch with us, let us know how your doing.

[nedarb2]

Nope, no cracks or any damage to the coils, and the point look brand new from what i can tell, and oil free. I will measure the gaps tomorrow and let you know what i find..this is baffling :S how can both systems fail at the exact same time when they both worked great before.

[ezeke]

Edit

[Paul Moir]

Not to overlook the obvious, but did you check the kill switch wiring? If you disconnect the two magneto leads and isolate them, does spark return.The flywheel key is also a strong suspect, but you would have noticed if that was sheared.

[nedarb2]

Haha obvious theres a kill switch?! I thought turning the tiller handle killed it, i didnt no theres a switch? help?! haha

[Paul Moir]

My apologies! I thought they had a kill switch on it by then. Now that I actually checked, I see they didn't. Sorry about that!

[nedarb2]

No problem. Anyways i have some very good news, and some bad news Good News: We Have gotten the ignition working again! Bad News: I have no idea what i did! I (without undoing anywires so everything was attached still) undid all the screws for the magnetos and condensors, quickly cleaned them all, and the piece of metal holding the small piece of felt with cleans off the crank shaft as it spins wasn't square to its mount and was touching the casing, i think that maybe that might have been grounding the current.Good News: After that Everything was ready to be put together and start her up, Bad News, i stripped the fuel pumps center scew, and then broke it, so i need to wait for a new fuel pump to arrive in about 3 days. Thank-you very much for everyones help!

[nedarb2]

PS, one more bad news, When i put the flywheel back on it is now sticking to the ring around the ignition that it is suppose to be gliding around. It is almsot as if seized to it, and i have no idea why. Ive oiled it several times but it didnt help atall. Ive also ran my fingers around all he edges and theres nothing sticking out that could be catching??? Any ideas?

[Paul Moir]

There is supposed to be a gap between the ignition coils and the magnet on the flywheel. To set the gap properly, the ignition coils must be set so their faces are even with the machined bosses on which they sit. You want them on there deadly for the best performance, but not over at all.

[Xcusme]

Like Paul said....surface A and B should be flush.....like this

[nedarb2]

right thanks! got it figured out, pulled the cord,and she started on the first pull! currentlying sitting in a bucket idoling, and it sounds and is running great Now i need to get the steering and tilt working as there both seized in place

[nedarb2]

one last thing for now,when i started0 it the first time it was spitting water out, but now no more water is coming out whe ni start it. Do i need a new impeller? is there a thermostat/thermometer in it? or is this normal? Thnaks

[flech01]

A new impeller is a good idea. You said you found this motor on the side of the road so it could have been years since its been changed.Its not that hard to do and there are alot of post explaining how it is done. I beleave there is a video also.Have fun

[Paul Moir]

I'm with Bill Puter. No sense going that far with the engine only to destroy it with a weak cooling system. There is a thermostat in the head under the cover held on by three screws. At least test it too. Impeller is $15-20, thermostat is around $15.The engine should begin spitting a few seconds after you start it. More water will come out as the thermostat opens. You also need to operate the outboard in enough water so the seam between the lower unit and midsection is submerged. That allows the pump to prime.