i would find it very helpful to be able to read a list of the sealants considered essential for working on evinrudes and johnsons and other outboard motors by name. in my oem evinrude service manual they list 5 or 6 lubricants; everything from oil can to grease gun. in one iboats post on this subject reference was made to a sealant i assume is a waterproof semi-liquid paste type. another referred to water-proof grease.
many of u r active outboard mechanics running or working in marine shops. by name and application what do you use?
i can refer to gasket sealer as paste type that comes in a tube. or i can refer to it as a thread locker. but it is more clear as to what to get if i say, for example:
Permatex non hardening sealer (tube) type C; use-most fiber gaskets, pan, water pump, etc. or
Permatex hadening sealer (tube) type B; use on intake manifolds, valley pans. pan to main cap seals, or
Permatex RTV red (tube) Hi-Heat. Gold tube, for exhaust, intakes, valley pans, or
Permatex Aviation Gasket Sealer (tub/brush) for most fiber gaskets, pan, bolt threads into water jackets, heads and water pump, etc.
if i went to my local evinrude/johnson dealer and looked at sealer/lube supplies out on the floor to work on my engine with, i would not know what is the best to consider. i went to a marine store other day and they had several types of greases. some said water resistant, others said highly water resistant, non said waterproof. and one designated for marine use, a moly type, said nothing about being water resistant or not.
i would like to know the brand, model and type used most frequently in the marine engine trade for such areas as:
water pump/impeller unit parts
lower case to exhaust case
new seals both into metal case and seal to shaft
water thermostat items/gaskets
head gaskets if any
head water passage gasket
grease for zerk fittings on outboard
any brand of dielectric grease preferred?
lower unit drain washers. if oil, oil, if other please state
spark plug thread-anti seize?
is mount tilt (manual) greased or oiled?
perhaps this could become a permenant area of iboats tech that others could add to?
i can use Permatex Aviation Gasket Sealer to 'waterproof' and seal... head bolt threads into blocks exposed to water and high heat, i can use it for water pump, thermostat applications, too. no doubt it is quite 'waterproof'! so is it good to use on marine applications, too? i am confused as to what is best to use for gasket and sealant work on an outboard motor and its parts.
related to this thread is the question of what seals the lower unit to the exhaust unit on my 1971 85 hp evinrude? my oem service manual shows a flat fiber gasket clear as a bell! the schematic drawing of the parts arrangement shows no gasket that i can see. i read a post on the subject and in it there was mention of an O-ring and O-ring groove. is this what i should expect to see when i drop mine?
if so, does the O-ring go in dry and i use sealant around it on the metal mating surfaces? do i coat it and then wipe off the excess as the parts are assembled and drawn together?
does this O-ring, if used, sit in a grove in the lower unit or does it protrude above the lower units mating flange and sit also in a receiver groove in the mating surface on lower end of exhaust unit?
i would like to know more about what seals the unit, and how to go about it.
we shall see. the theme is only dumb question is the one not asked! so, we shall see.
i think we would already have a flood of posts, however... the expert sealant users/engine assemblers prob have run out to the garage, shop or service area to make notes of what is there on the shelf, etc.
I'll start: I use OMC/BRP gasket sealant for general gasket sealing, and pressed in seals (OD), screw threads, etc. It is just so much more pleasant to use than the permatex stuff. Schotchgrip #847 replaces the omc adhesive M for metal to metal fits, like where the gearcase bolts up to the exhaust housing.
I am having trouble figuring out what gasket you mean. There is a thick rubber donut affair where the exhaust pipe sticks down into the gearcase. It is shown on the exhaust housing parts diagrams, though it actually fits into the gearcase. Just lay it in there and grease the inside so the ex tube will slide into it.
I agree with FR, the main items I use are the BRP Gasket Sealing Compound, it works well, and comes with a brush built into the lid. A can will last longer than you think for items such as t stat gaskets, under impeller housing plate, impeller housing screws, etc.... That along with the 847, a tube of dialectric grease, a tube of oil, plus marine grade grease in a grease gun, are the main things for the toolbox. I cant remember the exact brand of dialectric grease, although I really doubt that matters much. The grease gun is used for various nipples, like on the cowl latches, and the tube of grease for lubrication points like throttle linkage points and cam rollers, etc....
Triple guard grease is the most waterproof stuff i have ever used.It actually says waterproof. You may find it at your local Evinrude-Johnson dealer.
I buy it here,
The seal between the mid section and lower unit does not have a gasket,some people use gasket sealer and some bolt them up dry.
1981 ChrisCraft 210 Scorpion K,175 Johnson SeaHorse
(Usually available at any reliable automotive parts type store)
Do Not use any type of sealer on outboard carburetor or intake manifold gaskets as this would cause blockage of various fuel/air passageways. Also, there are new type gaskets, including head gaskets, which are used through out the engines that are coated with a substance that gives a shinny appearance to them. These gaskets are coated with a self sealer and are to be installed as is.... no sealers! Older style head and fuel related gaskets that are not coated with this substance are to be simply coated with oil.... nothing else.
All other gaskets (hopefully I've not overlooked anything above) should be coated with Gasket Sealer (the type that comes in a can that has a small brush in its screw off cap). This also pertains to some water pump installations that use a gasket between the plate and the lower unit housing.
Marprox Sealer 1000 or OMC Adhesive or Boat Armor Sealer 1000 (same substance) should be used on any metal to metal or metal to plastic surface (such as impeller hsg to plate, and plate to lower unit surface) to eliminate air leaks. It should also be used on the Spaghetti tubing that is used on many powerhead crankcase halves, lower unit skegs, etc. I have found that this substance works quite well on various "O" Rings such as what are found on lower unit carrier and upper driveshaft bearing housings (Note that this substance is obviously not to be used on all "O" Rings).
DO NOT use any sealer on the large "O" Rings that are used on the upper and lower crankcase heads (The housing/heads that slide over the top and bottom of the crankshaft). On those "O" Rings, use only a coating of grease.
The exception of surface to surface contacts pertains to the later model matching crankcase (block) halves (which does not incorporate spaghetti tubing) which call for "Gel-Seal", or any other surface that calls for Gel-Seal. This substance seals in the absense of air, and if called for, must be used. One other form of Gel Seal that can be substituted is "Loctite #518". Nothing else that I know of will do!
I advise against using silicone or permatex on a outboard engine. It simply will not function properly. The exception to this (as per OMC's recommendation), is to use the black Permatex (heavily) on the gasket 306242 which seperates the inner exhaust tube from the exhaust housing on the 1959 35hp and 1960 to 1970 40hp OMC outboards.
When time permits, visit my store (copy/paste) at: stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store