92 johnson VRO fuel/oil injection problem

[rjrobin2002]

I have a 92 Johnson that has been sitting for 5-10 years. I replaced the water pump, cleaned the carbs, fuel, and oil systems. It has spark and compression. There is a constant high pitch alarm going off from the shifter. It has oil in the oil tank and I am guessing something is wrong with its float/oil level indicater.
Second, it will not start and does not seem to be getting fuel to the carbs at all. I have read some old post on here by doing a search and I am going to get rid of the VRO and buy this pump.
http://www.iboats.com/Fuel-Pump-Sier...view_id.174141

My question is what do I do with the wires going to the oil tank and VRO and what is the primer solenoid for that has a fuel line going to it. Do I need it if I switch to premixed fuel pump? It has wires to it also.

[tashasdaddy]

what motor????? need to know as that pump will not work with all motors.

[kenmyfam]

You can also rebuild the VRO / OMS fuel side of the pump if you so choose.
Agree with TD though. We need all the motor info before moving on.
Welcome to iboats.

[rjrobin2002]

It is a short shaft 40 hp Johnson 1992 model. I had read some of your post on a similar boat when I was searching Tashasdaddy. I do not want to mess with the VRO due to having a fuel pump issue and a oil alarm going off. I am a fan of simplicity also.

I am intested in what to do with the VRO wires and oil tank wires. Am I missing anything else? Hope this additional motor info helps, sorry about that.

[rjrobin2002]

Anybody?

[kenmyfam]

We are mostly watching the hockey game right now.
Back after overtime.

[jwbmarine]

u cant rebuild the entire vro....which,..is prob not ur problem at all.....but,..u can only rebuild,the air and fuel side.......i quit doing that,as well as major boat dealers yrs ago,due to warped hsngs,thecost of parts and redoing it 4 times till it,may wk...i repl them,w/new,.if...it needs it...ur screeching alarm,...i highly imagine,is not rel to vro,unless a bad sensor.

[tashasdaddy]

you can use the block mounted pump http://www.iboats.com/Fuel-Pump-Sier...view_id.174141

plug the pulse hose under the carb, disconnect and disregard the wires, also the oil tank.

[ezeke]

A constant alarm is not VRO/OMS, it's overheat.

You have to keep the primer solenoid which is a valve operated by a 12 volt solenoid; it has to have wires to run.

The VRO/OMS operation is purely mechanical, the wires are only there for the warning system.

[rjrobin2002]

So with the premixed fuel pump, I am assuming that I will run a vacume line to it, or is there something else that works this pump?

Second, if the constant alarm is overheat, why would it be alarming me as soon as I turn the key on and when I am turning the motor over even with a cold motor?

P.S. Great site guys, I am amazed at the service and knowledge here. I have already referred ya'll to a few friends and posted this forum on my Ford Bronco website.

[jhebert]

For information on how to interpret the meaning of an aural alert from an OMC motor of your vintage, see

http://continuouswave.com/whaler/ref...rnSignals.html

[ezeke]

And, before you ask, a fuel obstruction alarm comes from a device known as a vacuum switch, not part of a VRO/OMS pump, and not generally mounted on engines smaller than a V6.

A constant alarm on a cold 40HP engine indicates a bad horn, a failed temperature switch, or a short to ground in the tan wire.

[rjrobin2002]

I am going to start with working on the temperature switch after this fuel conversion. Now waiting time for the pump to come in. I am still not sure about what runs this pump. I will get back with ya'll after it comes in.

[tashasdaddy]

on the port side on the engine block, you will see a 1/8 inch plug, with a threaded bolt hole on each side. remove the plug, the hole provides the pulse for the fuel pump, which i refered to. besure to use the gasket between the block and pump.

[rjrobin2002]

I got my fuel pump in and I must say that the Sierra pump seems to be a very well made aftermarket part. I put it on and connected it to my new 50:1 fresh filled fuel tank, lines, bulb and cleaned carb. Turned the key and it started right up, ran for 5 seconds and died. I did this 5-10 times and still it will not stay running. It will continue to run if I give it all the gas, but it is running with a steady miss every other second. It could be the rev limiter that has the engine pulsing at the high RPM I think. I looked at the picture above and I seem to have the pump mounted upside down. I do not feel that gravity would affect a fuel pump running off the engine that pumps fuel. I am going to switch it any how. What does this running for 5 seconds sound like to ya'll? I unplugged all of my wires from my VRO and oil tank, dont know if that is a problem.

[rjrobin2002]

Switched the pump and still runnning only at high RPM. It will run at lower than rev limiter speed now, but will suddenly die like it has no fuel if you try to run it at lower speeds. Fuel pump is working.

[kenmyfam]

Switched the pump and still runnning only at high RPM. It will run at lower than rev limiter speed now, but will suddenly die like it has no fuel if you try to run it at lower speeds. Fuel pump is working.

What makes you say the pump is working ???

[SparkieBoat]

could be a air leak in fuel line or a clogged carb, or something with the ignition or compression ...or just a bad plug;;;needs to be fixed.

[rjrobin2002]

What makes you say the pump is working ???

I drained the bowls of each carb and then started turning the motor over with out pumping the bulb. It eventualy cranked up and will run at high RPM. If the fuel pump or flow was bad, I do not think it would of refilled the carbs or run at high RPM's where the most fuel is needed. It will only run when reving the engine up or at 3/4 throttle or higher. I pulled the plugs after running it and they were not fouled or wet. They were dry and looked great. I am getting 2 new plugs tomorrow, even though I have checked them by pulling them and holding them against the block and watched them throwing a good spark while turning the engine over. The compression feels good when holding my thumb over the plug hole and turning the motor over.

[kenmyfam]

Check pump output by removing the fuel line from the carb feed and cranking into a container. Muffs on for this and remove plug wires or pull the lanyard.

Strong continuous spurts = pump functioning O.K.
Strong spurts to begin with and tapering off = air leak or malfunctioning pump.
Dribbles to nothing = massive air leak or pump is no good.

Your first post says spark and compression are good and your last one mentions your thumb over the spark plug hole as a compression test.
How was the original spark and compression test performed ???

[ezeke]

There is no reason to believe that the fuel pump is or was your problem.

There is good reason to believe that your carburetors need overhauling.

[rjrobin2002]

Check pump output by removing the fuel line from the carb feed and cranking into a container. Muffs on for this and remove plug wires or pull the lanyard.

Strong continuous spurts = pump functioning O.K.
Strong spurts to begin with and tapering off = air leak or malfunctioning pump.
Dribbles to nothing = massive air leak or pump is no good.

Your first post says spark and compression are good and your last one mentions your thumb over the spark plug hole as a compression test.
How was the original spark and compression test performed ???

I have not perfomed a compression test with a gauge, but the motor was running fine when parked and I can feel that the motor has good compression by turning the motor by hand, the air force pushed out by the spark plug hole, and how strong it sounds when it is revving up and running at high RPM. I know that is some Red Neck testing but I have been doing this for years. I do have a gauge I will hook up though. I have put the plugs against the block and watched them spark. That is the only way I have ever checked spark.

I am fixing to remove the fuel line and let it pump into a container to see how the stream looks.

Put new plugs in it.

I am also ordering a carb rebuild kit, I just cleaned and put back together the carbs last month, but did not place anything.

This boat was free and I wanted to make sure it was worth putting money into before I started ordering to many parts. I am at $50 so far with the pump.

[rjrobin2002]

There is no reason to believe that the fuel pump is or was your problem.

There is good reason to believe that your carburetors need overhauling.

I agree now that it is looking like a idle jet problem in the carb. A complete reuild is on th way. I was not getting fuel to the carb with the VRO and it would not run at all. I put the new pump on and it runs now, but only when revving the engine up or at high RPM's. Carbs and plugs are on the way.

[SparkieBoat]

cleaning/rebuilding carbs is SOP for motors that have sat up

[rjrobin2002]

Does the rebuild kit include a new main jet?