25 HP Evinrude Ignition Switch Wiring 1978 Lowe Boat-Help!

[tfurman6]

Hello, I'm new to the iboats site, but I have been reading in depth over the past few days. I recently bought/inhereted my fathers 1978 Lowe fishing boat that has a 25HP Evinrude "Sportster" motor on it. I pulled the boat down to Georgia from Illinois and after the snow and ice melted off -he had it stored outside- I discovered that most of the seats, gas lines etc. were deteriorated beyond repair. I actually got it running at one point, but the ignition switch would not shut the motor off, someone suggested I spay a little WD in the key switch, which I did and WALLA, now it wont turn over at all!! I went to AutoZone and bought a key switch, but it the terminals dont match, although someone said it should still work. I dont want to screw up the soleniod or starter, so I could really use some help on getting this done right. Can someone please give me some guidance. To make matters worse, I cant really tell what color the wires were that are still attached to the switch as they insulation had all fallen off.

So, I looked all over this site and found some suggestions that looked close, but nothing that seemed to diagram my specific problem. I have posted some pictures of what I have below. I would greatly appreciate any help you can provide. Do I need to get a different switch?

Motor.jpgwires new start switch.JPGOld start switch.JPGSolenoid Side.JPGunderside.JPGMotor.jpg

[bhile]

Yes, you must use a marine switch. An automotive switch does not have all the functions you need.

[cr2k]

As the Admiral noted you need a marine switch. But not any marine switch, you need an outboard switch. Your engine shuts off from the ignition being grounded when the switch is turned to off. An automotive switch is missing this feature. Also some Outboard switches have a push to choke function, which is not needed on your manual choke engine, but will work fine. BTW the Black wire is the one that goes to the ground or kill position on the correct switch. Red should be from the battery to POS or BAT. You should be able to determine what goes where by looking in the engine to see what color wire goes where.

[tfurman6]

Ok, so I need a different switch. Are they generic enough that someone can tell me what I need and where I can get one?

Also, as you can see in the picture, there are two black wires in the cable, any idea which one goes where?

And, finally, there is a choke on the panel next to the key switch but it looks like it is powered from the "On" position from the ignition switch.

http://forums.iboats.com/attachment....1&d=1294612051

[lindy46]

Take the old switch to a johnnyrude dealer and get one that matches. The two black wires are the kill circuit and go on the "M" terminals of the ignition switch. The choke switch should jump from the battery terminal of the ignition switch (providing 12 volts). The other side of the choke switch should go directly to the choke solenoid.

[tfurman6]

Thanks Lindy: Does it matter which of the black wires go on what terminal? Also, can I use a switch with a built in "push to choke" like this one?

Sierra 3 position magneto off-run-start marine ignition switch for Johnson/Evinrude and most OMC inboard/outboard engine powered boats. Push choke.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...ff-Run-Start+#

[lindy46]

Doesn't matter which black wire goes to which "M" terminal. Looks like that switch will work.

[tfurman6]

Lindy, I got the new switch installed and motor starts, but still wont shut off with the key! Again, I;ve searched the forums here, but still cant find any direct explanation for this. Any ideas what I should check next?

Thanks,

[lindy46]

If both black wires are connected to the "M" terminals on the ignition switch, it's probable that one of those wires is disconnected somewhere else. You'll have to check continuity back to where they connect to the points under the flywheel.

[Joe Reeves]

The 1978 25hp Evinrude/Johnson has Magneto Capacitance Ignition (solid state/Powerpack) and does not incorporate ignition points.

What is the model number of that engine? Without knowing exactly what you have, flawed information and advice could result.

[restornator]

The 1978 25hp Evinrude/Johnson has Magneto Capacitance Ignition (solid state/Powerpack) and does not incorporate ignition points.

What is the model number of that engine? Without knowing exactly what you have, flawed information and advice could result.

he never said it was a 1978, it's obviously pre-77 because of the funky harness plug.

[Joe Reeves]

Restornator..... I didn't look at the pictures, the title (Switch Wiring 1978) leads one to think that the engine is a 1978. However, no problem, I'll send him a wiring diagram for a 1976 25hp which should get him close to what he needs to know.

PM sent to tfurman6.

[tfurman6]

Thanks Gentlemen. Do those wires only kill the engine? Could I test them by cutting the wires and wiring them together back by the engine? If that worked then I could run two new wires. Or, can I get a OEM wiring harness for something that old?

BTW, Serial Number is 25253RE0002467

Also, I dont know what "PM sent to tfurman6" is?? Sorry so clueless.

Thanks again!

[Silvertip]

PM means "Private Message". Look at the top of this forum and click the button that says "Private Messages". It is like an e-mail through the iBoats forum where you and someone else can carry on a private communication.

[Joe Reeves]

25253RE0002467 = The "Model" number is 25253R. The remaining numbers are the "Serial" number being E0002467. The model number indicates that the engine is a 1972 25hp Evinrude.

When you get in touch with me, I'll see that you receive a color coded wiring diagram. But for the time being, the ignition and choke switch must be wired as follows.

Black wire = Connect to one "M" terminal (magneto)
Black wire = Connect to other "M" terminal (magnetio)
Green wire = Connect to "B" terminal (battery)
White wire = Connect to "S" terminal (solenoid)
Red wire = Connect to "C" terminal (choke)..(See note below)

Normally a "Purple" wire would connect to the "A" terminal (auxiliary) and lead to one of the terminals on the choke switch.... and the "Red" wire would connect to the other terminal of the choke switch.

However, your new ignition switch has a built in "Push To Choke" feature which allows you to connect the "Red" choke solenoid wire directly to the "C" (choke) terminal of the ignition switch which eliminates the need for the toggle choke switch. Of course you can wire it either way you prefer.

[lindy46]

Thanks Gentlemen. Do those wires only kill the engine? Could I test them by cutting the wires and wiring them together back by the engine? If that worked then I could run two new wires. Or, can I get a OEM wiring harness for something that old?

BTW, Serial Number is 25253RE0002467

Also, I dont know what "PM sent to tfurman6" is?? Sorry so clueless.

Thanks again!

Yup - you should see where the two wires go under the flywheel. Start the engine and touch the two wires together - engine should stop. (it grounds the points together)

[tfurman6]

Ok, started it, hooked the 2 black wires together back at the engine and she just kept running. Must be something up in the top where the wires go. (which for me is never never land). Do I dare start taking things apart to find out where that goes? What would be up there? Or, should I just run it and choke the engine to kill it everytime?

[lindy46]

You could just choke to kill - that's the way the earlier motors were designed (pre 1958). Must be the wires are not connected to the points. To check, you'd need to remove the flywheel, and you need a harmonic puller to remove it.

[tfurman6]

Thanks again Lindy. choking will have to do until I find someone with a puller.