I have rebuilt this motor, the second of its kind.
Having a problem bringing it up on RPM.
After being advised, and I thank you guys for the advice, to go over the carbs again replacing the needles, it idles perfectly. I was lucky that it did because that got us back.
It comes up on instant RPM as needed to get it on the trailer but shuts down completely when I try to accelerate on the pond. It restarted ok but still shut down when I tried to accelerate. Then it would not restart. We wrestled with the trolling motor which on only 12volts was not strong enough. After a little time we tried to restart and bingo she started up as though nothing was wrong. At this point we decided to get back to the dock while she was running.
Thanks in advance.
Sounds like a fuel starvation issue to me. Check your tanks, fuel lines, and clamps. Be sure the tank/s are venting and the fuel line isn't collapsing. Possible fuel pump filter is clogged or any in-line filters also may be restricted.
Thanks for the response oldcat'.
We have completely refurbished this boat. Tank, fittings, water trap filter, hoses the lot not to mention carpet, gel coat,seats and upholstery etc. The fuel pump, rigged for 50:1, has been stripped and checked and tested on our other 1993 Faststrike and it runs perfectly. If there were a shortage of fuel the vacuum switch would set the alarm, just as it did when we were bringing the other motor back on line after rebuild and tried using a 6gal tank. This is a 17gal tank we are using, the one that is fitted to the boat. Bulb stays reasonably firm.
Might it be an ignition issue? If you think so, then perhaps you can give us some input on testing.
Once again, thank you.
More info on my problem.
Have the motor in the tub and ran it to warm it up. Tried revving it up in gear without the prop just to simulate running conditions as best I can. All appeared ok except it was not very smooth on acceleration. Left it running at idle a while then revved it again. Almost immediately it cut out. Pulled #1 plug and fitted spark tester. No spark. shut off the ignition and tried again, no spark. Thinking that it could be the module breaking down due to heat,although the motor shows a good temperature on my IR unit, I left it to cool. I have noted that no water emanates from the two vents at the back of the motor, unlike the other Fastrike. I am getting a very strong jet from the tell tale. While waiting for the motor to cool I pulled the thermostats which are new and put the caps back.
After a short time I looked for spark again and sho nuf spark was there and she fired up.
Shut her down and refitted #1 plug and fired her up. Tried to rev and down she went again.
Pulled #1 plug and put the tester on and NO BL******* SPARK. (Limey expression).
Getting a splutter of water from the two vents without the thermostats.
What am I dealing with guys?
Need help badly on this one.
Ok Guys so far so good. Noted when turning the motor over that the volts dropped to 10. The battery is new and showing 13 off load. All of the connections were made good at both ends when we reassembled. This motor had an overheat problem so most anything could have cooked. Tested the Rectifier/Regulator with the test meter. This is a simple one to do and after reading the info so kindly provided by Ezeke the R/R was found to be shot. Luckily I had a good used spare. Fitted it and now the volts stay above 11.
Will put it in the Tub this afternoon and test it.
However!, and there is so often one of those, I am still concerned with there being little or no water from the two case vents from the bottom of the block. Our other 150, same model, rebuilt, puts out plenty of water from these vents. I am assuming that water should come from these vents as they appear to be part of the exhaust system and in addition this water possibly provides cooling for the R/R unit.
Please tell me that all is well or tell me what I need to do. The tell tale flow is a veritable pressure hose and of course we have addressed the pump service.
Thanks for all the help so far.
Ok. Testing in the tub after replacing the defective R/R unit she cut out again and no spark.
Replaced the switch box and coils as a unit and no more trouble.
I had the foresight to buy a complete used ignition system a while back.Bit of luck.
Remains only to lake test this one and that will be the real test.
I will report on it.
I am still concerned about the lack of flow from the rear vents.
Need an answer on that please.
Thanks for all the help.