Hi, I just recieved a 1981 Evinrude 2 stroke 2 hp outboard for my birthday. E2RCIB is the number and theres this one also E0005641. The two knobs for the lean and rich on the fast and slow speeds are gone. When I get this engine running on start its hard i open the choke then a few seconds later it tries to die so i close the choke and it does the same thing so i open it again. When i get this engine on full fast it runs ok then the rpm goes up and i dont want it to explode then the rpm goes down. So when it was on fast for about 5 minutes i put it on slow it ran for about 1 minute then i put it on fast before it died then it did die once it got on fast. Should i buy the knobs to adjust the carb more? buy a new carb? I am testing this engine in my pool also because i believe its water cooled. It has 2 holes or slots above the propeller.
Also is this engine strong enough to push a 10 foot boat with about 330 pounds? Is there any way to make the 2 stroke faster before i have to bore it? I just want the engine to idle on start and slow and fast
You should be able to adjust the mixture screws with a screwdriver. In fact that is the way to do it , refitting the knobs when they are correctly adjusted
See Joe Reves' instructions on the Engine FAQs board HERE
If the engine will not run with the needles at or close to their basic settings then you will almost certainly be needing to clean the carb, paying particular attention to the idle circuit.
The symptoms you describe of running with the choke closed but dying when opened are pretty well indicates a dirty carb.
It is water cooled and you should see a small quantity of water , just a mist or a few drops, being blown out of the exhaust pressure relief port on the back of the leg.
If it is cooling properly you should be able to touch and keep a finger on the powerhead for several seconds .. except the exhaust manifold cover plate and the head around the spark plug. If it is any hotter than that then start by replacing the waterpump impeller.
As a "new to you engine" replacing the impeller would be wise anyway.
Also change the gearcase oil .. if the old oil is milky you will have to investigate how water is entering and renew the seals
Fuel mix is 50:1, using a TCW3 2 stroke outboard engine oil as said above.
The currently recommended plug is a Champion RJ6C gapped at 0.030"
I do not think increasing the power is a realistic possibility.
It will push a 10ft boat with 300 lbs but not very quickly. I've used a smaller outboard to shift a 30 ft yacht in an emergency!
I've got the same motor only in a Johnson Sea-Horse. J2RBCIB
First thing to mention is the vent valve on the gas cap. Make sure it's open.
If the motor has been setting a while I'd guess it's fuel related, most likely carb but restriction in the fuel delivery could also be occuring. I always like to start at the top and move down.
There is a shutoff valve at the base of the gas tank. This shut off valve screws into the bottom of the tank (also held tight by a confounding spring clamp) and at the top of the valve, inside the tank, is a clylindrical screen that can plug up if someone lets old gas set in the tank for a long time. The valve itself can also collect debri. Make sure it's clear. Take it off and clean it up if it's plugged.
I'd start there and work down. Next is the fuel line and some of these old motors have an inline fuel filter in this fuel line. Check it.
If none of these are your problem it's likely your carb, or an electrical issue like the gentleman said.
Are the missing knobs broken off or did they just slide off? I had one of the adjustment knobs broken off. Are there ridges on the end of the stem where the missing knob should be? If so, you're only missing the knob. You can get 2 missing knobs sent to you for about $5 (shipping included) from
A bit of a "duh" moment for me there. Everything I said there about the tank, screen, filter and line could be accomplished quick and dirty by removing the gas line just above the carb and with the gas cap vent open, see how the fuel flows. It's a gravity fed fuel delivery, no fuel pump. You'll have to use your own judgement out how fast the fuel seems to trickle out. It won't FLOW if its going through the smaller line of the shut off valve and an inline fuel filter but there should be a strong trickle.
But from the symptoms you decribed it's probably problems in the carb itself. And that is carb kit territory like the first responder said.
Pman7 thanks alot yea I read ontop of the engine it said open fuel cap valve and I didnt know where that was until i opened the top part of the cap. So I ran the engine until it was empty of gas. Once it was getting empty it started to loop idle go up and down so i filled it all the way up and its still loop ideling. The knobs i purchased from that site last night they just slid off. I turned the fuel valve and nothing changes. Its old im going to empty the gas buy a new gas line and check out the screen I have yet to see. Again thank you for you information and water is going threw the engine and cooling it. it doesnt even get hot or not hot to me when i touch it. 80 degrees maby? 90?
Yes it ran like it should have on fast until it started to get low on the gas. Once it got real low it started to sputter the rpm up and down so i filled it up with new gas and oil and it still acts up. It could be to lean or rich idk. I am taking apart the tank and line and the fuel valve right now and am going to purchase a new line at the boat store if there still open. Im going to take the carb apart and clean it. There could be crap inside the bowl of it.
so i just took the top off and that coil thing came all undone so i have to wrap that up yay should be fun. but im going to get some carb cleaner and spray it in the tank also how do you take the tank out?
As you found out the screw on the top ONLY holds the recoil. Good luck on putting it back together.
There are 4 (I believe) bolts that you access from under the case that releases that top case. You have to line up the throttle lever to the center notch, remove the knobs that you lost and take off the gas cap to remove that top housing after you remove those 4 bolts. You can find pictures to help you at that site I provided.
In my opinion you caused the problem you're experiencing by running it with the old gas. It should have been emptied out and replaced with fresh. You've probably gunked up the carb but it could be the filters to. You've learned lesson number one. :-)
Probably your only hope of now not having to do the carb kit, which I would reccomend anyway, would be to buy a can of seafoam, follow the directions to mix it into a tank of gas, and try to run the motor in your barrel of water for quite a while. I hope you're using a barrel of water at least. The seafoam is the quick and dirty and lazy way, not the best way.
And btw, buy a service manual for your exact OMC motor on ebay. There are several there right now. Some buy it nows for about 20 bucks. I have a parts manual and service manual. They are handy. They would have prevented your recoil fun.
Ok thanks alot again. Also I am using something bigger than a bucket of water. Im using my pool and now there is a black ring all around the edge of it but its winter so it doesnt matter really. Also I have fixed the problem I sprayed alot of carb cleaner inside the gas tank, hose and a little inside the carb and purchased a new spark plug and put fresh gas with 2 cycle oil in it tcw3 and the 50:1 ratio. So everyone thanks for the help. I cannot wait to buy a boat and get this thing running. Is it possible to bore this engine out? Or am I talking nonsense right now? Im in automotive at my school
You're motor is going to leave quite a bath tub ring on your pool. :-)
The description of the service manual you had pegged is right but the picture isn't. Sometimes people just get lazy and put in the wrong book. Sometimes they're not too smart. I'd make sure you're getting the one you want. The one you want is suppose to look like this one.
I'm not the person you want to talk to about boring out though I doubt it would be smart. You have a motor that might take a 14ft jon boat or v-bottom at about 6mph. Maybe 1 or 2 more if you're lucky. I wouldn't bore it out if it doesn't need it. You're not going to get much speed with that whatever you do. As it is, if you take care of it, you have a little motor for trolling or something for a canoe or other light weight boat.
My father and brother used the one I have on a 14ft aluminum v-bottom for about 15 years. They didn't use mine much but they took care of it. If I take care of mine, it might outlive me.
You don't have a power motor there. You have sort of a toy. Take your time, do what the manual says and it will be a fun toy.
yea thats all i wanna do really is just cruise sleep and fish on it. and thats the book i bought after I saw that the picture was wrong on the one i posted up. Im trying to get a free boat in these peoples back yard or something because it just sits there.Or I can also dig up my boat 8-10 foot thats under 3 feet of sand. I found alot on craigs for a 100$ 12ft jon boats. What is lighter do you know? aluminum or fiberglass? and what is stronger?
Aluminum is lighter but not as strong as fibreglass, at least an older one. Today's "good" aluminum boats are welded instead of rivited but you pay for what you get. Fibreglass are heavier, they need more horsepower generally to get up on plane.
Signature- If you have fuel and spark- Have you checked compression?
The screen he is referring to is a cylindrical screen that is attached to the shutoff valve that's directly under the gas tank. The valve holds the screen just barely up in the tank. To remove it you'd best remove the tank to get it in a position to work on it easier. Remove the gas line from the bottom of the valve, there will be a spring clamp or hose clamp holding the hose to the bottom of the shutoff valve. If it's a spring, it's the original piece which may mean your hose is original which may mean you could have to cut it off. I had to cut mine off. BE CAREFUL and don't break the bottom of the tank. I hate those spring clamps and have replaced mine with regular hose clamps.
The on-off valve is screwed into the bottom of your plastic gas tank with the screen part sticking up into your tank an inch or so. Also holding the valve secure is another of those spring clamps which needs to be lowered a bit so you can unscrew the valve from the tank.
I stress, the tank is plastic. So bending and pulling and being rough with the valve in the tank should not be done. Use some penetrating fluid to try to loosen it up. If you break the tank, you're in trouble. I don't know where you'll find another.
If you have flow through the screen already, (I believe you'd said you put carb cleaner in the tank) and it doesn't seem to be restricting the flow, I'd leave well enough alone and not remove the valve from the tank.
There are gravity flow filters that you could put inline but the screen is suppose to do the job by itself. My brother put an inline filter on mine and it works but the inline filter wasn't there out of the factory. It was designed to only have the screen.
A reason you might want to remove the valve is if it's crudded up with deposits and won't close completely. Mine was crudded. If you have the tank off, check for flow and to see if the valve works. If it works, leave it alone.