Ok, stay with me I know nothing about boats and dont know the lingo...Pleas correct me and help me answer questions that i've got about this motor...my first boat a tri haul 19ft fiberglass.
It has an o/b (out board?) Johnsonw with a 115 on it. Does that mean its a 115hp? Also I bought this boat and my buddy says he got an overheating warning the last time he had it out(last summer), he pulled it from water and replaced waterpump. Never had it back out and sold it to me.
I want to start it up and have no idea how without putting it in the water. How do I start it with a garden hose? I've got a pair of muffles? Also what type of gas does it take, mixed or straight?
Assuming that you buddy got the alarm and shut it down right away with-out cooking the motor, and the water pump was bad when he replaced it, this might have fixed the problem. Will not know until you run it.
It does not use straight gas, it is a 2 cycle engine so it needs oil mixed with the gas. Be sure to use TWC-3 oil for 2 stokes. This is oil designed for water cooled engines, unlike an old weed wacker that is air cooled.
Going off the top of my head (someone will correct me if I am wrong) the gas to oil ratio is 50/1. If you look on the back of the oil container there will be a chart that shows you how much oil for different amounts of gas.
To run it on the muffs, hook the muffs up to the hose. I slide the muffs on from the side of the engine opposite the prop to cover the water inlet holes. These will be on the side of the motor in the middle behind the prop. You will see a screen behind it so you know you have the right holes. Turn the water on about 1/4 the way, you want flow not a lot of pressure. It will leak out around the muffs, which is o.k.
Make sure you have a fully charged battery. It takes a bit to get these motors turning over. Pump up the primer bulb on the gas line until hard. I would take the cover off the motor turn the key to run (not start) and push in the key and listen for a click at the motor. This will let you know the choke is working. Lift up the warm up lever on the control box, push the key in and turn to start. When it starts let the key out, if it starts to die push the key back in. Once she starts running on her own lower the warm-up lever to slow the motor down. Check to make sure you have water spraying out the exhaust at the back of the prop, and you should get a bit out the exhaust relief ports at the back top of the lower unit. While it is running touch the heads. If they are warm, good, if they are hot, you have more cooling issues to address.
Be careful doing that 19ftSigna. You have to have it way deeper in the bucket than you think. The water pump in the lower unit needs to be completely submerged to pump properly. So just submerging it till the water intake holes are convered isn't sufficient. The muffs are cheap and work well. Just don't run it much above 1500 RPM on the muffs.
Ok, well we got it running. After about 10 or 15 min of turning the motor over it kicked up and started running. We let it run about 15 min and the alarm went off. We shut it down immediatley. We actually lowered the boat into a pond nearby so the water was not the problem. The heads were hot to touch for a few seconds then really hot. The guy I bought it off of says he replaced the water pump and thermostat. Are there two thermostats? The motor did sound strong though while it was running.
You have only one thermostat (vernatherm). It is rare that you could run 15 minutes with a bad thermostat and much more likely that you need a new water pump impeller.
When you start a motor like yours when cold, the chokes need to be 100% fully closed to enrich the fuel mixture. The only way to be sure that the chokes are closing properly is to have someone crank the motor while you observe the choke plate in the carburetors with the cover off the carburetors. Once you have full choke, starting the engine when cold should not be difficult or time consuming as long as you have a fully-charged battery capable of cranking the engine at 300 RPM.
Yeah starting is easy when you close the flaps, then open and hit it. starts right up, finally put the muffs on today and started it up stayed cool and no beeeeep! but noticed that water was coming from head gaskets, so we took off covers and noticed blown head gaskets, everything looked fine inside. No cracks just a little scoring on one cylinder. Worry? or just put some gaskets on and ride it till she bucks? I've only got 500 in the boat, motor, and tailer! I dont want to put a lot of money into this so?
You probably want to check those heads for warping, which will sometimes happen after an overheat. You can do that with a straight edge. Or, better yet, put a piece of sandpaper on a piece of glass and move the head in a figure-8 motion. You should see even abrasion marks on the whole surface. If not, spend more time with that figure-8 motion.
new head gaskets! took it out and had absolutely no power went like 2mph... brought it home and decicded to give it another try with a fresh tank of gas! (had stale gas in it from when we bought it) still no power.... took plugs out and cleaned and dried them, put them back and the boat stood straight up!! hit 30mph!!! absolutely happy with this $500 purchase. Now we have to get this carb issue under control with fouling plugs? we are going to rebuild the carbs and try to figure out the choke issue... any ideas on Choke?? adjusting??
Remove the airbox cover and engage the choke. Make sure the choke plates are closing all the way. Turn the motor over and verify that they're staying closed. If not, drop the choke solenoid down 1/4" and try it again.
I know its been a while, but I do not have a air silencer cover. Also I rebuilt my carbs and took it out, ran like a dream, then looked down and noticed that the screw has vibrated out of the choke control? (on bottom carb that opens and closes the flaps on front. Whats the easiest way to linc and sync?