After re-reading the "How to get the best results from your question topic", I decided to resubmit on a NEW thread.
I'm new here on iBoats but have been scouring the available info about resealing my lower unit. I have a 1973 Sportwin 9.5 and began disassembling it last night. Everything went very well and I found no damage to any parts. The 30+ year old O-rings even look usable! Of course I have all new parts to install but I just found that amazing in itself.
This forum thread (http://forums.iboats.com/showthread....90&pagenumber=) has been very helpful to me so far - the "spade bit" trick for removing the shift selector rod bushing worked perfectly. My only problem is that when I drove out the bushing, it kinda rolled around on my workbench and I wasn't able to see which side originally faced up/down. It has a "beveled" and a "flat" side and I'm trying to figure out which way to re-install it. It seems to make sense that the beveled side would face the fat O-ring...?
Also, any tips for removing the bearing housing? I'm going to try some Permatex gasket remover tonight but I'm thinking there must be a good way to pry it off without damaging anything? Same goes for the propshaft seal? I have a "normal" seal puller... is that needed if I have everything apart or is there some way I can just knock it off?
You are correct with the shift rod bushing. I sparingly use some 847 around it to ensure a good seal.
Regarding the prop shaft seal, and drive shaft seal, the standard T handle puller works. Use a piece of wood for leverage, dont pry against the housing. Dont ask me how I know this. If the prop shaft seal housing has the 2 holes in it, you can use a hammer and punch to drive the seal out instead of pulling it out. Either works.
Thanks High Trim. My propshaft seal looks like this:
I don't see any holes, but there is a slot on the edge of the seal. I used a standard seal puller (hook/pry type) for the drifeshaft seal with no problem after removing the driveshaft but I can't envision how this would work with the propshaft seal without damaging the shaft?
Last thing is the bearing housing assembly, number 11 here:
if you have the housing out, I turned it over and gently drove that seal out from the back. I had the housing supported by a couple of pieces of 3/4" plywood. Be really careful with that housing as it's a pricey replacement. The seals in that propshaft bearing head, I left alone. When the lower unit was pressure tested there was no leak there. Seemed to me that the prop end of that housing was almost "scrunched" in somewhat making it really difficult to get that seal out. I read one account of someone using a dremel tool to drill and cut away the rubber portion, then weakening the outer metal portion with a dremel grinder of some sort, and finally using a small screwdriver to collapse the metal band and prying it out. I'm sure you've noticed that that bearing head is sold as a unit with the seals in it...pricey piece as well.
To clarify a little bit - I have the bearing housing seal out, but trying to get the bearing housing off of the gearcase to replace the gasket (#13 in the Sea-way link above) underneath it. Thanks for the help, guys, I feel the end coming soon!
sorry 'bout that...the bearing housing I removed came out without much effort..seems like I just crooked a finger in the hole the seal came out of and pulled up at several different points until it came up...I don't recall any beating or banging...can you get at it with the lower unit housing inverted and something much smaller than the driveshaft to tap around on the center of the housing?..something to just get it started?..pb blaster around the outer edge or the 50/50 acetone atf mix to help break its bond to the wall of the lu?
OK, so after about 5 application of PB Blaster I finally got the bearing housing loose! Didn't damage it either, but man it was really glued on there. Thanks for the tips AlTn.
Next issue: trying to remove the seal using the head assembly for leverage, I did this:
I broke the little "lip" on the end of the gearcase head assembly. Now this is an expensive piece BUT, if I'm looking at it right, I might still be OK to use it? It's just the very outside lip that doesn't look like it does any sealing?
With that being said, I didn't have any leaks coming from the propshaft seal... should I just leave it alone for now? There is no fishing line, wear marks, scoring, etc.. on the propshaft that I can see.
Or if I wanted to replace the whole head assembly, how would I get it off? Does the seal still have to come out or can I just grab onto the whole assembly and pull? Thanks guys, I knew this wouldn't go perfectly on my first rebuild
you shouldn't have a problem using that...and ,yes that head assembly just slides off the propshaft...if you're hellbent to pull it off the shaft, lube the shaft some and wrap the threads with some tape so the seal lips don't get damaged