1973 Evinrude 135hp-No Spark...

[4barrel]

Picked up a boat in Jan. took a chance that it ran, and "the guy said it did"....
135 evinrude power trim! Can't seem to get it fired up, put new plugs in checked spark by grounding plug and cranking. Thought it had spark but now, doesn't seem to have spark at alll.
Noticed that the heads are marked in ink 135 & 140 140 & 135, my guess was someone recently did a comp check.
I checked them cold and all are at/around 120. My tester may have a small leak @ head fitting but 120 still seems ok....ish.
Not even a fart/cough. Makes me think stuck needle/floats,??
So far I Rebuilt carbs, clean/new filter, fresh high octane no Ethanol fuel, New plugs.
So How can I test the output from the powerpack to the coils? I highly doubt that all 4 coils are shot.
Someone from my earlier post mentioned a "trigger plate" and test with a ohm meter but not sure how/ where to test from.
For the record, Model # is 135383m Serial # is C 94125

[SparkieBoat]

get a spark gap tester, you could have many issues. try the trouble shooting guide at the cdi electronics web site in the support section. should cover all ignition test.

[emdsapmgr]

I'd get an original service manual from the original printer: Ken Cook Co., in Milwaukee. The manual will provide electrical checks for the major ignition components: timer base, power pack and the stator. Yes, it is unlikely that all 4 coils have gone at the same time. The power pack is a common failure item, but all are expensive-so it is worthwhile to do some troubleshooting before purchasing parts.

[4barrel]

Ok checked cdi electronics site http://www.cdielectronics.com/downlo...inrude_DVA.pdf
found the chart you mentioned, says to check stator by using ohm meter across brown & brown/yellow. Do I dsconnect these wires before testing?
I think someone mentioned to check those wires to ground and it should be open ohms, or stator has short to ground. Is that right?

Also says to read trigger wires. Read #1 to #3 and #2 to #4 with a ohm meter. Are these terminal the ones on the powerpack? Or the wire that goes to coils? (Cause I thought #1 at powerpack was the kill wire....)

Do I crank/turn engine while doing these test? Sorry I just don't want to damage anything while testing and still little unsure.
Was going to get a manual from library but waiting on it to be returned.

[R.Johnson]

You have an anti-reverse spring, a sensor ring with individual sensors, and a charge coil before the pulse pak. If you replace the pak, you have three more guess's. It get's exspensine doing it that way.

[CharlieB]

Follow the CDI directions TO THE LETTER

Yes, wires must be dis-connected

NO, do NOT crank the motor when doing Ohm's tests, the voltage produced by the stator will hurt your Ohm's meter.

Ohm's test are a helpful tool, but..... if the system still does not function the DVA Test are far more reliable indicators of trigger and stators and should be done before ordering any NONE RETURNABLE electrical parts.

[4barrel]

that is kinda why I asked about turning motor .
Thanks.
I tried to get help from a guy in town that I know he was much to busy and just blew me off. But asked about DVA and he said the motor has to be running to check, dunno if he is right?
I have my money on a bad trigger or pack, but want to have some readings to base that on.

To test the trigger though, It would be to wires going to the powerpack? when they say #1 to #3 and #2 to #4 ?
the stator test I figured out I think, Going to get my meter from work today and wil check.

[SparkieBoat]

you would never do any type ohm test with a load..at least that I am aware of.
The DVA adapter mentioned by Charlie is the way to go..about $35 and connects to your multi meter. just google it.

[4barrel]

So I got a servive manual from library,, Did the sensor coil resistance test .
No shorts to ground, and ohm readings were around 11.2 Book says 7.5-9.5 @ 70 F. it is cooler than that here right now.
Also did Charge coil resistance test
Book says 835-985 ohms I'm @ 626 ohms
Called shop in town talked to a guy told him what I've done and what I suspect is now the power pack>
He agreed, saidit won't be the trigger plate, as long as I have a reading that isn't crazy out of range and not infinite its prob good.
Same for stator he said about my readings.
So a picked up a powerpack......................... He said he bets I get spark.
get home install on boat ..............
$%#%%$@$ No spark!!!!!!!
noticed the plate that coils and power pack are mounted on seems loose. Can't seem to tighten down.

So now what ?
could a wire simply not be connected right/or at all?

[F_R]

1. Make sure there is no fault in the kill circuit by disconnecting the black/yellow stripe wire from the power pack. Got spark now? If so, check the kill circuit. Othewise reconnect it.

2. Look at the two big coils on the stator. Any leaking or melting? A common problem with the original stators in 1973. Replace stator if leaking.

3. Now Hear This!!! You won't have spark if it is not cranking fast enough!! 200 RPM is minimum to get spark. Try it with the plugs out (it will crank faster). If spark then, you have a cranking speed problem. Fix the battery, cables and/or starter.

4. Don't confuse #2 with #3. A melting stator may have spark if you crank it faster. That doesn't make a melting stator a good stator.

[SparkieBoat]

this is the reason I highly recommend the $35 investment into a DVA adapter, it will not be the last time you use it. probably your stator..but OHM testing is not a reliable way to test outboard ignition systems.

[4barrel]

Ok now we are getting somewhere I removed all plugs, and checked with my neon spark tester ( can't find my air gap tester) and 1, 2, & 4 have a little life. Still nothing on #3...
Going to pull flywheel and look at coils, might even switch coils from 2 to 3 to check the #3 coil itself.
But now at this point with weak spark on 3 cyl's and one dead, with a new powerpack, Stator?
I put a brand new batt in it when I statred having this problem. and I have the charger on it as a backup. so I don't think that is the problem, also motor seems to spin ok with plugs in . Not to slow in my opinion.
could the flywheel be bad? I know its rare but can happen

[4barrel]

OK I'm not an expert by any means but doesn't the woodruff key potrude into crank and flywheel notch!!!!


Pulled flywheel carefully so I wouldn't loose the key, and there was none.... well the crank is flush round as well as crank!!!
Going to pick out the pieces get a new key tomorrow.

Probally ALOT cheaper than a stator!!!
Any arguments this ins't the end of my problems? Other than now tracking down why it sheared the key?

[F_R]

I don't know, but it seems to me that it would still have spark with a busted key, but at the wrong time.

Well anyhoo, keys shear because somebody didn't install the flywheel correctly. The shaft and flywheel tapers must be clean and dry and you must use a torque wrench to tighten the nut to 100-105 ft lbs.

Shearing keys causes damage to the flywheel and shaft. When that happens, you never can get it to hold any more.

[4barrel]

Ok are you telling me that I won't get that flywheel to stay on, and will just shear another key?
It did grove the magnets abit on one side, was hoping it could be machined.
The nut was not tight at all & didn't even have to try at all,
rounded side of key was in crank, flat on flywheel.

When I removed only the #3 pug to assist the engine to spin LOL with other plugs connected.
BOOM! and then the smoke seeped out the cyl. It must had ignited LOL, won't do that again!!


Starting to look alot like he knew it never ran or ran like crap.

[4barrel]

OK I got a new key for flywheel! The guy at shop said have to do a light grind to seat flywheel & crank taper, using a valve grind compound.
Did that and they are perfect! In doing so I found a stripped srcew and 1 "homemade" hold down for trigger plate. Fixxed that, cleaned the coils and magnets on flywheel. Torqued the nut to 105 ft/lbs.
No spark..............
Pulled all plugs and checked spark, with both a surface gap plug and a neon spark tester, Now I got spark on all 4 cyl.
I am stumped,?????
The new batt must be good I can crank motor lots of times never gone dead, but now I use the charger just to keep topped up. Maybe just doesn't have the cranking amps needed???
Going to try a batt from my bosses boat, If it starts his inboard It "should" start this one? Right?
So with spark on all cyl. when enginge spins faster... assuming batt and starter system are good. The Powerpack is new!!
Would that mean the trigger is good and stator is weak?

[CharlieB]

Difference in cranking speed with the plugs OUT?

Often is a sign that the starter and/or all battery cable ends need attention.

Low cranking speed will cause ignition problems, deal with the starter, clean it, lube, new set of brushes.

I would NOT order a stator until a DVA test PROVES that you need one.

[SparkieBoat]

for goodness sakes get a DVA adapter and properly diagnose your problem.
http://www.usatoolwarehouse.com/usat...e/ESI-640.html
quit guessing. CDI electronics has a very good troubleshooting guide, also more part specific test if you download the install sheet for the CDI part number for your individual parts like rectifier, stator, power pack and so fourth.

[4barrel]

I ordered a DVA tester from them, Ya only 25 bucks plus another 28 to ship to CANADA!!!! also the tester won't be here till after my planned fishing trip.
So you USA guys may be able to just "poof" there it is in 2 days w/free shipping! But not going to happen when it crosses the border.
Also still dunno what good it will do, Cause all the guys I talk to here in town say DVA is for when the motor running or at least popping.
I dunno how to use it yet. for that reason.

Also the motor any motor will/should spin faster with the plugs "out" the lack compression does that! Thats why older moped and some bikes had a "decompression" lever.... To make cranking easier while starting.
The cables are all good and short as possible, cleaned all terminals, ect.
I do feel the starter is going as fast as it can, Has smooth engagement, the gear does have minor wear but still smooth operation.

always fun to wait, for a tester/tools only to find it the part I need is something I need to wait to get in anyway

[SparkieBoat]

I am very sorry that you live in Canada and have such terrible shipping, you could have shopped around and found one there but any way. You can test with DVA while turning the engine over, the CDI troubleshooting guide covers these test. go ahead and read up on it so you will know what you are looking for. you could just go ahead and buy a new regulator/rectifier, stator, power pack and all 4 coils if you want to be sure to cover it, but it could still be something else. now that you will have a DVA adapter you should be the go to guy in your area for ignition test, do a few for free till you get the swing of it then charge $50 to diagnose.

[4barrel]

I had starter rebuilt on friday, installed all the stuff back on motor this morning.
So I got the motor to fire up but shut it down right away,
Dropped in the test tank, need to recharge battery & try again in a bit....
But while going over my stator and such, I noticed that 2 wires a not connected to the terminal block..
I never diconnected it. They come from the head/block one purple and yellow and one purple wire? Any idea what these wires may be for? My guess is the thermo switch?
Would these be left off on purpose to bypass something? Or more likely just forgot to put back on?
I have a wiring diagram it doesn't show a purple/yellow at all but does show a yellow/purple.
The terminal block cover list a purple/yellow and a purple. so I do know where they belong, I think....

[ezeke]

I had starter rebuilt on friday, installed all the stuff back on motor this morning.
So I got the motor to fire up but shut it down right away,
Dropped in the test tank, need to recharge battery & try again in a bit....
But while going over my stator and such, I noticed that 2 wires a not connected to the terminal block..
I never diconnected it. They come from the head/block one purple and yellow and one purple wire? Any idea what these wires may be for? My guess is the thermo switch?
Would these be left off on purpose to bypass something? Or more likely just forgot to put back on?
I have a wiring diagram it doesn't show a purple/yellow at all but does show a yellow/purple.
The terminal block cover list a purple/yellow and a purple. so I do know where they belong, I think....

The 1973 motors came with an automatic choke that never worked correctly so they were disabled back in the day. The temperature switch that drove the automatic function was located next to the lifting eye at the top of the engine block. The wires ran from there to the terminal block and then to the choke solenoid

In disabling the automatic choke, the wires remaining were re-routed so that both choke wires ran to the toggle switch at the remote.

It is absolutely essential that the choke plates close 100%, fully, not a hair less, and stay that way while cranking for a cold start. You will need to take the air silencer off and watch them while cranking to satisfy yourself that they are functioning properly.

For a cold start it is also essential that the warmup lever be raised fully because it advances the timing while the lever is raised.

The ignition system works best for starting at a cranking speed of 300 RPM, but 250 will usually do. The 1973 factory manual sys 200, but it never worked at 200 on mine. After that year, the manuals changed to 250 RPM for the V4 series.

To understand the Service Bulletin and the change instructions, use the section of the 1973 wiring diagram in the thumbnail.

[4barrel]

HA HA
Now she runs!!!
And Those wire are supposed to be disconnected. Thanks for the bulletin info Ezeke.
So now that she runs I got to get the impeller and bottom end done by thurs LOL ! never done a impeller is It a pain on these 135's?
So it was a starter problem I guess, although it still doesn't seem to spin much faster than before, don't care as long as it starts no prob after using the power trim to lower motor.

[ezeke]

Once you get the lower unit off, the waterpump/impeller is fairly straightforward.

The shiftrod disconnect under the carburetors. You need to loosen the screw that acts like a fulcrom on the bellcrank, then spread the fingers so that the pin releases the shiftrod. Click the thumbnail.

There are seven screws holding the unit on: two on each side, one in front of the trim tab, one holding the trim tab and one hiding above the trim tab. Mark the position of the trim tab before removing it so that you can put it back as it was.

The two water tubes should have plastic sleeves on them; pull them down a bit so they will be in position to help with getting them back in the waterpump.

Be sure that the air bleed hole is clear it the top of the pump housing liner, and put a little Triple Guard grease on the shaft where the impeller sits.

[FasterE]

What is a DVA? I presume that it's an adapter used with a standard RMS meter that allows the user to read the high voltage peaks at the coil. If so, what seetings does one put the meter on? I followed a couple links here on iboat boat did not come across a sat definition. Please post link if one exist.

Thanks.

Errol