Is there a way to tell if the water pump is working on this motor? I know the old Johsons do not have tell tales so I was wondering how do you know if pump is working? I recently purchased this outboard and was told it was winterized and the impeller was changed last fall. Fires up and runs on muffs and shifts fine. I have heard these lower units are hard to get off with the hyrdo shift wires, so I dont want to have change the impeller this season if I dont have to.
The problem with dropping the gearbox on a 1972 Johnson 65hp motor isn't that it is particularly hard to do - its that you have to be careful not to break the shift wiring.
Run the motor on the muffs again and turn the hose on just enough to feed the water pump - don't turn it up so high that it will force feed the water passages. After you start the engine, the thermostat should open and you will see water discharge at the vertical "slits" located above the cavitation plate. You may also see water flow and/or mist at the upper water discharge ports.
If you feel confident that the seller is being truthful, you should be in good shape for the next 2 - 3 years, depending on your usage.
Thanks I will check it out today. I do feel he is truthful(he worked on the outboard himself and is a mechanic), but I am allways skecptical with outboards and the people who are selling them if I have not known them a couple of years. I ordered the water pump repair kit # 385447 and the johnson permimum oil anyways, so I will let you know if I have to go down that road of changing the pump.
FYI, the oil for the LU on a Hydro-Electric shift is not just the premium oil. It HAS to be C type oil or equivalent.
Another helpful hint is to flush the LU with ATF every year or so to keep the inner plumbing clear. Drain the LU, refill with ATF, attach the muffs, start it up and let it idle in both forward and reverse gear for a few minutes each. Drain the ATF and then refill with the C-type oil. Don't forget to replace the drain screw seals when you do this too.
Ran it again today on muffs and I had water coming out of multiple places. There was water in the slits and also a steady stream coming from the prop and back of exhaust housing. Did not have the motor running for to long or the hose on full blast when this was happening. Water coming out of the prop was a little bit warmer than the rest of the water coming out everywhere else.
With respect to gear lube, BRP premium Blend is what you want - that is the current "Type C" equivalent. Be sure to take Starppy up on his suggestion in regard to the crush washers that go on the drain and vent screws - they are one time use and the most common reason for water intrusion is failure to replace them.