I have started to disassemble the lower unit to replace water pump and reseal lower unit and have a couple of questions. I can see it has been leaking at the oil seal under the water pump housing. This housing has 4 bolts, that I removed and looking at the Evinrude service manual it is hard to distinguish how that metal plate comes out. I don't think you could use a puller because the drive shaft is in the way. Any thoughts on removing this? Also the wires are frayed that go to the shift soldinoids, do they disconnect below the cover at the solidnoids. I need to be able to splice and heat shrink them, any special heat shrink I should use for water submerssion?
Joe, thanks, I will try tomorrow to get that housing off. I was going to go ahead and replace the gasket that goes over solidnoid housing, so I will have to remove it and will figure out the wiring from there. When I remove that cover, will I have to mess with the solidnoids or do they stay put? The OMC Sealer 1000, I know I can use the loctite aviation sealer instead, is there a local place to buy that at, auto supply, etc. . .?
Joe, I believe that I have the same lower unit on my 1972 65hp. The wiring in mine is in good shape but my local dealer mentioned a cost of a couple of hundred dollars to replace. I don't know if he actually checked availability or just looked at price. In either case, it seems to me that making up a length of wiring, sealed in a suitable casing, shouldn't be that difficult.
Have you ever done this or have you ever seen it done? Any special considerations if it needs to be done?
Tex.... Removing the solenoid cover will allow the solenoids to be easily lifted out of the lower unit. When installing, be sure that the bottom plunger is in the oil pump lever where it belongs. Use any sealer that will do the job.
The electric shift cable appears to still be available, but if so, the cost of the cable itself is a couple hundred dollars or so. And no, I have never used anything but the proper shift wire when doing that repair BUT should it no longer be available....... necessity is the mother of invention.
For the cable, you might try SEAWAY Marine in Seattle WA. If I remember, the cable is closer to $400 than $200. As you pry up on the housing, be careful you don't break the flanges under the waterpump plate.
My experience may or may not apply here. I've dealt with "frayed" electric shift wires more than once on the old 40HP selectrics (electromagnetic coils, not solenoids). The wires are often ruined from heat in the leg. There is a small hole in the water tube that feeds cooling water from the water pump housing to the powerhead. That hole is supposed to spray a fine steam of water into the leg to keep the shift wires cool. The little hole gets plugged with corrosion. The exhaust gasses in the leg raise heck with the shift wire because it gets too hot in there. So, before you reassemble, look to see if there is a hole in that tube and if there is, make sure it is clear and open and able to do its job.
I have replaced toasted selectric shift wires with oven wire. The kind made for ovens and other electrical appliances. I have a spool of it I got years ago. It is tricky but necessary to get a good seal where the wire enters the oil-bath area of the gearcase from the water-bath area of the leg (exhaust tower). I have fabbed up a passage (seal? harness? loom?) for the wires using high-temp hose and high-temp sealant. I would obviosly prefer an OEM replacement wire but they are extremely rare and expensive.
Tex, check this page from Crowley Marine out - the cable is NLA but the connectors, etc. are. See items 38, 51, 53, 54, etc. You might be able to buy new parts for the upper and lower seal points and use something else for the wire run.
boobie was referring to the part about opening an old thread.
Solenoids for your engine are listed as not available. Look in the "Top Secret File", there is a list of salvage yards listed there, maybe one of them can help you out with the solenoids.