1969 Evinrude 6 HP Tune-Up

[cobr123]

NEWBIE!I was gifted this little guy a while ago, I haven't run it in 4 years, it's been resting in my basement. I was looking for a little more detailed information for this particular motor, I haven't received my manual for it yet.I've drained the gear oil and added about a 1/2 quart of Quicksilver (didn't realize this stuff was blue) using the pump. I plan on lubing the spark plugs before firing, as well as some fresh fuel.I'm attempting to use the Tempo motor flusher hose hook-up to make sure it runs before hitting the water.Can I do this with this particular motor? The water intakes don't appear obvious to me. There is a vent looking thing that may be exactly what I'm looking for.Any other suggestions would be extremely helpful.Thanks in advance for any assistance!

[Laddies]

Thats one for a test tank or barrel

[JB]

I think this would get better reaponse in the Evinrude Troubles Forum, Cobr.Welcome to iboats. I will move it for you.

[Paul Moir]

Yeah, 'muffs' won't work on that engine. The Tempo flusher that fits it is 918FAA, but it hooks on to the water inlet fin, and it's no longer made by Tempo. The test tank is better anyway since you have backpressure and some load to test with.The last time I used Quicksilver L/U oil it was yellow, but that was a long time ago. Just to be certain, the bottle does say 'Gear Case Oil' not TC-W3 right?Might as well check spark before trying to fire it off. You should be able to draw a 1/4" or longer spark off each lead. The spark plugs do not have to be in for this test.Plan on servicing the water pump or at a minimum replacing the pump's impeller. Given that it's been sitting years and you really don't know it's history, it's pretty surely shot. They're regular maintainance items and should be replaced every couple years, notwithstanding use.

[cobr123]

Thanks Paul. The Quicksilver bottle says Gear Lube, no sign of TC-W3 anywhere, it was recommended by a local shop (obviously not always trustworthy) - sounds like I'm ok there.Its been maintained and cared for through the years, my Father-in-Law gifted it to us when he wanted it out of his yard (!)I guess it best for now to clean the plugs and stick it in the water. I'll do the water pump/impeller next season, unless you advise me not to. Is there an easy way to check it?

[Laddies]

Paul, Quicksilver syn. or high preformance gear lube is blue green in color--Bob

[cobr123]

Bob - thanks to you as well, didn't mean to leave you out. You seem to know your stuff.

[Paul Moir]

Thanks Laddies - I figured as much. Just wanted to be certain. If that impeller has been sitting for 4 years in the same position, it's likely taken on a set. Not only won't it perform well, there's a fair chance it'll fly apart on you. Which will leave you stranded and may destroy the engine.It's not a big job for someone who's handy, and it's not expensive at all (impeller alone is ~10-$20). Since it's not very valuable, the reasonable course of action is to replace rather than inspect it after you've gone to the trouble of removing it.

[cobr123]

I will take your advice - I don't want to ruin it. Any chance of you supplying instructions or pointing me to a place on the web? Does it require any new gaskets or any other oils? I'll then have to track down the part - that could be an adventure in itself.

[Paul Moir]

If there's a manual coming in the mail, wait for it to arrive first. If you're looking for where to buy one, just ask. If you don't want to buy one yet, borrow one from the library.I guess what I'm saying is, with a manual it's easy. Basically, this is the procedure:2) Remove the 4 small bolts hold the lower unit on.2) Rotate the flywheel until the lower unit drops a bit, then shift it into reverse and disconnect the revealed shift rod connector by removing one of the bolts.3) Pull off the lower unit.4) Remove the three screws holding the water pump housing on. Lift the water pump right up off the driveshaft. Careful not to lift up on the driveshaft or loose the impeller key if it comes loose.5) Remove the impeller off the driveshaft. The driveshaft may need some cleaning.6) Install a new impeller. 7) Coat all the threads of all your screws and bolts with sealer. This will make them easier to remove next time.8) Install housing over impeller while turning the driveshaft clockwise so the vanes fit the housing. Screw it down9) Regrease the splines at the end of the driveshaft.10) Reinstall the lower unit lining up the driveshaft, the shift rod and coupler, and the water pump tube.11) Make sure the shift rod connector is fully installed so the bolt keys it in place, and install the bolt you removed earlier from the coupler. Don't strip out the soft brass coupler.12) Fully install and bolt on the lower unit. You will have to rotate the driveshaft a bit again to get the pin in the driveshaft to line up with a slot in the housing it fits through, then a bit more to get the driveshaft splines to mate with the crankshaft.If you get the kit with a new wear plate, I put a little sealant (not RTV silicone) between the wear plate and the lower unit. Others don't and it seems to work for them though. Nothing else other than some grease for the driveshaft splines.Parts are easy to find. Iboats sells a nice little kit with everything but the housing, P/N 18-3202. The impeller alone is 18-3001. Your local Johnson or Evinrude dealer should have parts too (they're different numbers though), and even some NAPA autoparts have them. Hope this helps!EDIT: For the moment I don't see any problem with testing your outboard with the old impeller, as long as you keep an eye on it and make sure it doesn't overheat. The powerhead should get hot to the touch, but not so hot as to be immediately painful. I just wouldn't go out in a boat with a who-knows-how-old impeller that's been sitting for four years without a sturdy set of oars.

[cobr123]

I'm going to give it a shot, I'm trying to find the parts locally and see if I can get it done by this coming weekend.If you have a manual recommendation, I'll take that as well.Thanks again for your help on this!

[cobr123]

Somebody beat me to the library! I have the part, easy enough to find. I have the 4 bolts off, but there isn't enough room for a socket to get in and I can't break it free with a screw driver when in reverse. How hard can I pull to squeeze in the socket? There's only a little over an 1/8 inch or so.

[Xcusme]

Cobr123,Seems like you have run into the all too common problem of a stuck drive shaft. The drive shaft is splined at the crankshaft end. If there was little or no grease used on those splines, the junction of the splined shaft and crankshaft can rust. A bit of patience will be needed to drop the drive shaft. Do a search for 'stuck drive shaft'.Either rust and/or metal displacement of the splines is holding the shaft.

[cobr123]

Lower unit finally dropped, looks like there's 4 screws on the water pump, one of which is fairly stripped - now what, break out the drill?

[Xcusme]

If the threads are stripped out, find a helicoil kit. It's not a hard job, just follow the destructions. You can take it to a machine shop too, it's a simple repair. Far simpler than a broken bolt. If your not familiar with helicoils, this should get you started.. Link