Howdy! Just bought a 1967 Johnson Seahorse 3hp SN-82752702 Model#JM22C. When I went to p/u the unit it ran for a couple seconds and stalled out not to crank again. Then got it home and it did the same thing. Proceeded to clean the carb and put fresh gas mix in the tank. Now it does stay running and will crank on first pull but runs rough and will not rev to full power. It seems to run at idle speed and wants to stall out when you try to rev it up. The unit I was told has very little time on it and looks brand new so I do beleive the seller. Would it be the air fuel mix needle or exhaust ports? Thanks in advance! >>> JONESN
that '67 has the universal magneto which is notorious for the coils going bad. They probably haven't been changed. You need to get a $6 spark tester at autozone and check spark on both cylinders. I suspect you have weak or no spark on one cylinder due to a bad coil ($25 part) and the motor is only running on one cylinder. You will be shocked how well that motor will run with 2 working cylinders! There's a thread in the "top secret files" of this forum that will show you how to fix points and coils on motors with the universal magneto.
good luck,
JBJ
Thanks JBJennings! My buddy came by to look at the spaks statis and I do have fire on both cylinders. Also would the coils go bad with very low hours on the unit. So you think the spark may be weak? What should the meter be reading? Thanks JONESN
The coils go bad from deteriation of the epoxy covering and they crack with age. Has nothing to do with the run hours.
Having "spark" can be very deceiving. It should be capable of throwing a 1/4" spark. First things first--have you tried new spark plugs and checked compression?
Do this: Remove and ground one spark plug wire and see how it runs. Then do the same thing with the other wire. Chances are, it won't make any difference with one wire grounded, but won't run at all with the other one grounded. That is the good one.
A harmonic balancer puller with grade 8, 1/4-20 bolts needed to take off the flywheel. Replace the coils, points and condensers while you're under there and you won't have to look at it again for another 40 years. You need a feeler gauge to set the points at 0.020". Make sure the points are spotless, even though they are new.
Thanks tx1961whaler Ill get back to yous guys next week or so. Also where to get those parts? Points,Condenser and coils that is. Would there be a kit with all the parts needed that I can purchase?
Each ignition circuit is the same. There is 1 coil, 1 condenser and 1 set off points for each plug/cylinder. The condenser's and points come in a kit of 2 each. The coils usually come separately. When you change them, do one side at a time so that you can look at the other side to make sure you're putting it back together correctly.
When you say the points need to be spotless do you mean clean them with alcohol or what and how and what parts of the points need to be cleaned the contacts?
Another question >> What lb/ft of torque do I put on the crank bolt at the center of that pesky fly wheel??? Then Im done and ready for a test run in the ole test bucket.
Another question >> What lb/ft of torque do I put on the crank bolt at the center of that pesky fly wheel??? Then Im done and ready for a test run in the ole test bucket.
All righty then > I replaced the coils, points and condensers and it still runs as it did before.I also broke the brass pin in the prop hub trying to get the fly wheel torqued on. My next guess is shear pin for prop,spark plug wires and checking compression correct? Anything else need to be looked at before doing this and in what order? Im having a tuff time navigating and finding parts on this site for the year I have: Thanks JONESN
All righty then > I replaced the coils, points and condensers and it still runs as it did before.I also broke the brass pin in the prop hub trying to get the fly wheel torqued on. My next guess is shear pin for prop,spark plug wires and checking compression correct? Anything else need to be looked at before doing this and in what order? Im having a tuff time navigating and finding parts on this site for the year I have: Thanks JONESN
Compression test should have been the First thing you checked. Yes, it might have a spark plug wire arcing through where it is clamped to the bottom of the armature plate. In really tough cases, a resistance test of everything is a good diagnostic tool. I don't see where even a spark check was ever done, but maybe I missed it.
Flywheel torque is 30-40 foot pounds, although some manuals state 40-45. Well at least 40 gets it both ways. Use a strap wrench to hold the flywheel instead of the propeller. Besides, the pin is supposed to be stainless steel , not brass. Part number is 203230.
Me and my buddy did a compression check on it today and it has bout 65 lbs. on each cylinder and also checked the spark and seems to be ample. Might I have missed something in the carb keeping it from reving > jets or mixture needle I dunno? Im stumped.
It was a freakin .10 cent gasket in the bowl where the main jet sit's. Runs like a top now. Had it out this past Sunday. It was pushing a 15ft 4inch Old Town Square Stern Canoe at about 14mph with 2-200 pound people in it! I'm happy!
JONESN