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  1. #1
    Lieutenant Commander jasper60103's Avatar
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    Default 1962 Johnson 28hp

    Picked-up a 1962 Johnson 28hp (RX-10) as a project motor a couple days ago. The previous owner mentioned it sat for several years, but ran good before. So I took a gamble. It was only $50. Plus it came with a good 2 wheel metal cart.

    I tried to check compression last nite, but it was hard to pull. I sprayed some fogging oil in the plug holes, and it pulled a little easier. But I couldn't give it a good full pull. Maybe about 3/4 pull at best? Anyway the compression read 70psi on both holes.
    I read somewhere to try pouring some marvel mystery oil in the plug holes and let it sit for a week or so. I'll give that a try and recheck the compression next week.

    Anyway, in the mean time. My library has a service manual. I'll start looking at that before proceeding on to the usual things like impeller and carb rebuild.

    Is this an easy motor for a newbie to take on? Is it a good runner? Again, for $50, the cart is worth that much. Appreciate any tips or advice.

    jasper
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  2. #2
    Honorary Moderator Emeritus tashasdaddy's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1962 Johnson 28hp

    it is an easy motor to work on, and very reliable. read this.
    http://forums.iboats.com/engine-frequently-asked-questions-faq/awakening-sleeping-outboard-boatbuoy-158086.html

    you also will need a part manual, as there are not any online.
    http://www.outboardbooks.com/
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  3. #3
    Lieutenant Commander jasper60103's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1962 Johnson 28hp

    TD,
    thanks for the awake procedure and manual link.
    I'll lube-up those cylinders tonight.

  4. #4
    Lieutenant Commander jasper60103's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1962 Johnson 28hp

    Anyone else have that twist knob throttle? You can see it in the first pic. Seems you would need two hands to throttle and steer at times. That's weird?

  5. #5
    Honorary Moderator Emeritus tashasdaddy's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1962 Johnson 28hp

    that motor is set up to use controls and steering wheel, if you want to use it as a tiller motor you need to convert it. need to find tiller for a 28-30 hp that vintage, ebay outboard parts.
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  6. #6
    Honorary Moderator Emeritus tashasdaddy's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1962 Johnson 28hp

    this is where the parts manual comes in. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/25-HP...spagenameZWDVW

    may be easier to do remote control and steering.
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  7. #7
    Lieutenant Commander jasper60103's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1962 Johnson 28hp

    yea, I just found a parts manual and will order. In the mean time, I've been looking at the diagrams for the 1968 33hp model in BRP. They look similar.

    Adding a factory tiller handle seems quite involved. I think I can make something with a hand grip in place of the existing throttle knob. I'll think on that for a while. thanks.

  8. #8
    Vice Admiral jay_merrill's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1962 Johnson 28hp

    There are also a couple of strange things about that motor ... I think.

    I have been under the impression that OMC started putting fuel pumps on the upper bypass cover (port side) by the time that the 28hp model was introduced. On your motor, it looks like the vacuum cutout switch has been mounted in that location, and the fuel pump has been mounted where the cutout should go. There is also a pulse line tapped into the lower bypass cover, which is run around the head and exhaust cover, to the fuel pump.

    I don't think this is a stock arrangement, and I can't imagine why anyone would set the motor up that way. I could be wrong, because I have never owned a 1962 Johnson 28hp, but I'm thinking I'm not. I do own 3 Johnson 33hp motors (essentially the same motor), and had a grandfather who had a 28hp "back in the day." With respect to my grandaddy's motor, I just don't remember it being set up the way yours is. I also don't remember it having the older style fuel pump that you have.

    BTW, you also have the mounting bracket for an electric starter on your Johnson. Its the bracket on the front, starboard side with the "big hole" in the middle. While the later, 33 hp models have a bracket molded into the lower cowl pan for a solenoid, your motor used an external solenoid, mounted in a box that went on the transom. You might still find room in the cowl pan to mount one, however. I did that to a pair of 1958 ERude 35 hp motors that I own. What I found is that it is easier to use a Mercury solenoid, because it is smaller than the OMC unit.

    If you want to add electric start to this motor, you can do it very easily. The starters are still available as new units, and there are plenty around to be purchased used. The used ones are sometimes serviceable, and sometimes need to be rebuilt. The last time I had one rebuilt, it cost me about 100 bucks. That said, I have seen them brand new for not much more. One of the reason why they are still available, is that the same starter is used on a number of small, industrial engines.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: 1962 Johnson 28hp

    There is nothing wrong with the way it is set up. That's all factory correct. That is the correct fuel pump and vacuum switch for a '62. Also, the '62 28hp came with the starter bracket for ease of installation of the accessory electric starter kit.

  10. #10
    Vice Admiral jay_merrill's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1962 Johnson 28hp

    Good info, F_R. I wondered because I have never seen a 28 set up that way that I can remember. Given the gradual change in configuration from the late 50's 35 hp motors, through the later 33hp motors, however, I'm not surprised at goofing on this one.

    One thing that does come to mind, however, is that finding a rebuild kit for that old pump might be an issue. Is it? And if so, can you just mount a currently available pump in place of the old one?

  11. #11
    Vice Admiral jay_merrill's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1962 Johnson 28hp

    I just noticed your comment about putting a factory tiller handle on your motor. If you can find the right parts, its actually very easy to do. I feel certain that those parts will be identical to what was on the later 33hp, so you can look at your parts manual for that, to determine what you need. I'll also look at www.shop.evinrude.com later to see if I can help.

    In short, you will remove the small lever that is located where the handle would be, and then remove the cast aluminum part that is adjacent to that lever. That piece is attached to the motor in roughly the same way that the tiller handle would be. If I remember correctly, the shaft that runs from that point to the gear aft of that point, is different than the one that you need to install a tiller handle. Once the correct piece is installed, you just install the tiller handle, making sure that the gears line up correctly.

    I'll try to give a better explanation later, after I've reviewed the parts listing.

  12. #12
    Lieutenant Commander jasper60103's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1962 Johnson 28hp

    Hi, Jay.
    To me, the tiller arm looks like it requires a different steering bracket. And the steering bracket seems like a pain to replace. Please let me know what you come up with.
    thanks,

    jasper

  13. #13
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    Default Re: 1962 Johnson 28hp

    The fuel pump repair kits are available right here at iboats and everywhere else. Except at the moment they are marked as out of stock at iboats.

    The tiller arm does indeed install in place of the emergency throttle lever presently on the motor. The steering bracket does not have to be replaced. Piece of cake, no problem once you find the parts. They show up on e-bay all the time.

    Fuel pump kit: http://www.iboats.com/mall/partfinde...****=073719588

  14. #14
    Vice Admiral jay_merrill's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1962 Johnson 28hp

    Changing the whole steering bracket would be a pain, but I don't think you need to do that. Before reading my explanation, open another window in your 'puter and go to www.shop.evinrude.com.

    When you get there, click on "Parts" and then look for a window that says "EVINRUDE" in caps - click the arrow and select "JOHNSON." Select the "1968" model year, and then select "33." Once you have done that, pick any of the specific models of a 1968 Johnson 33 hp motor - it shouldn't matter which one. Once you do that, select the "Lower Unit Group" and open that window. What you will see is a parts explosion and a parts list. Look for the "+" and zoom in a bit so you can see the parts better.

    I am sending you to this motor because this web site does not list OMC motors older than a 1968, but the parts involved should be identical to what is on your motor.

    The parts that need to be removed and replaced are #15 (Part #377211), which is called the "Throttle Knob and Shaft" and #12, which is called the Throttle Control Cover (Part #305612). In order to remove the Throttle Knob & Shaft, you are going to have to loosen the set screw on #9, which is the Throttle Control Pinion (Part #303142). While you are looking at that part, notice #5, which is the Throttle Control Gear (Part #309188) - we'll get back to that later. When removing the Throttle Control Cover, you will notice that it is secured by a bolt - save that bolt, you will reuse it to secure the tiller arm that you install later on.

    From this point on, I can't refer you to a parts diagram, because I can't find one that covers the parts that you need. Instead, refer to the image below, which is taken from an owners manual for a 1958 Johnson SuperSeahorse 35hp motor. The tiller arm and throttle shaft are the same as what you will need.





    Actually, this is the hard part, not because of any particular difficulty in the installation, but because of what it will take to find the parts. Basically, you need two things - the tiller handle assembly and the throttle shaft depicted in this image.

    The throttle shaft will replace the "Throttle Knob and Shaft," that I mentioned above. If you look at it, you will notice that, instead of having a knob on the end, it has a pinion gear. That gear is what mates up to a similar pinion in the tiller arm that you will install. To secure the new throttle shaft, you will insert it into the steering bracket (there will be holes/guides there) until the end mates with the "Throttle Control Pinion" that we just discussed, and which is secured by tightening the set screw. Next, the tiller arm is inserted where the "Throttle Control Cover" was, using the bolt that was saved to secure it.

    As these steps are performed, you do have to fiddle with position of the pinions a little to make sure everything is lined up in a way that insures the correct range of throttle travel, via the twist grip. Its a little hard to explain so I'll leave you to a little trail and error here. One thing that you will notice on the pinions where the tiller arm creates an "elbow," is that there is a portion where, instead of having several teeth, there is a continuous section (male). That will fit into a similar section on the other pinion, which is missing teeth (female). Once you get those two lined up, the shaft in the tiller arm will be correctly aligned with the new throttle shaft. The tricky part is getting the twist grip position correct for proper alignment all the way at the other end, so that the removable throttle control pinion lines up properly with "Throttle Control Gear" that I told you to remember.

    As you do all of this, bear in mind that I am writing these instructions entirely from memory. I haven't done this in about 5 years, and when I did it, I actually went the other way, taking a tiller off of a 1958 ERude 35hp and replacing the parts with those off of a 1969 (I think - don't remember exactly) Johnson 33hp motor. If I have messed up a little, you can take it off of my bill (ZERO DOLLARS )!

    If you manage to find the parts you need, this whole process will probably only take you about an hour. It really isn't difficult, so don't psych yourself out! I would offer to sell you my tiller handle, but I am a total pack rat and rarely get rid of any of my parts! I am also considering putting the tiller on one of my Johnson 33hp motors, so that I can put it on a 14' flat boat. Anyway - sorry, can't give it up!

    For finding these parts, Try EBay, Sea-Way Marine in Seattle, Twin City Outboards in MN, or Desert Marine Recyclers (602-689-8336, Jim Carmichael) in Arizona. Desert Marine doesn't have any web presence, so just call the number I provided - you will hear a generic cell phone voice mail message if Jim doesn't answer.


    PS: F_R was posting as I was writing - just read his entry. If you can't get the fuel pump rebuild kit here, try Sea-Way. They have a very large inventory of NOS items, and may have it.

    BTW, the manual that I took the above pic from came with a boat that I once bought, but that motor wasn't on it. Like I said, I am a pack rat, so I kept the manual. In finding this pic for you, I noticed that the vacuum cutout and fuel pump arrangement is identical to what is on your motor. I guess I should pay more attention to stuff that is right in front of my face before I open my big mouth, huh?

  15. #15
    Lieutenant Commander jasper60103's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1962 Johnson 28hp

    Thanks, F_R.
    I appreciate your knowledge on these motors.
    I'll give that tiller arm a shot.
    Also, thanks for the advice on the fuel pump.
    Hopefully, I can get this old motor going with the help of
    this forum.
    I'm still waiting for my manual.

    Thanks again.
    jasper

  16. #16
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    Default Re: 1962 Johnson 28hp

    Very thorough and detailed instructions, you deserve to add 10 cents to your bill for that.

    As for aligning the gears, I might add that if you get the first tooth of the pinion gear so it matches the first groove of the mating gear, everything will be good to go. Then as already said, match the large double teeth at the elbow. The words on the dial plate never do align precisely so what you get is what you get.

    I do believe the tiller takes a different attaching bolt than the cover. And a drilled nut for a cotter pin. There is also a thin brass flat washer and a cupped spring washer to control the swing-up friction. Apply some waterproof grease to both sides of the brass washer. Finally, getting the drilled nut on can be a mite tricky because there isn't much room. But it can be done. Start the nut on immediately as soon as a thread appears when the bolt goes through the handle casting. When the tilt friction is good, tighten the nut and install the cotter pin. Apply waterproof grease to the gears.

  17. #17
    Lieutenant Commander jasper60103's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1962 Johnson 28hp

    Hi, Jay.
    Thanks for the detailed explanation. Yea, I was using the '68 33hp as a reference too.
    I was surprised to see the similarities. That's good design practice though. If it works why change it.

    I think the tiller handle is doable now. I'll save this thread.

    You think the tiller handle on ebay that TD sent me would work?
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/25-HP...ayphotohosting
    Then its just a matter of finding the throttle shaft.
    I'll keep an eye out for parts.

    Also, hopefully my manual will show up at the library soon. They said they had one, but had to be sent from another library. I'm keeping an eye out on ebay for a manual as well. A guy said he had a '62 repair manual, but it was for a 33hp. At least I found a parts catalog, yeh!

    Thanks again. jasper

  18. #18
    Lieutenant Commander jasper60103's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1962 Johnson 28hp

    F_R,
    here is a pic of a tiller arm on ebay from an '83 25hp.
    Is this the spring you are referring to? The seller says two bolts are missing though.

    thanks,
    jasper
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  19. #19
    Vice Admiral jay_merrill's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1962 Johnson 28hp

    I'm not sure if that tiller will fit or not, but I am thinking it won't. You may want to call an OMC dealer/shop and ask.

    Also - please see your messages. I've sent you a PM.

  20. #20
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    Default Re: 1962 Johnson 28hp

    That one won't fit. It has to look like the one Jay posted.

  21. #21
    Lieutenant Commander jasper60103's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1962 Johnson 28hp

    OK. Thanks.

  22. #22
    Lieutenant Commander jasper60103's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1962 Johnson 28hp

    OK, I researched it a bit, and what FR and Jay were trying to tell me makes more sense now.

    My '62 28hp steering bracket was used on the 40hp '71-76 models. And the pic below shows a blow-up of the optional tiller arm assembly. Also, I included the parts list. So, if I can find a tiller handle from a 40hp '71-76 model year, I should be set. thanks again.
    jasper

    edit: sorry, the parts list was not viewable.
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  23. #23
    Vice Admiral jay_merrill's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1962 Johnson 28hp

    Many of the motors from the late fifties, sixties and early seventies share quite a few parts.

    There was an evolution of motors that began in about 1956, and to a lesser degree even before then, that resulted in many similar models over about a twenty year period. The 30 and 35 hp models evolved into two different types of 35 hp motors - those with the "normal" midsection, and these with the "fat" midsection, which were commonly called "super quiet." The super quiet models had many differences, but a few things remained interchangeable. These motors also evolved into the fat midsection 40hp models that were so popular all through the sixties.

    Where the most commonality of parts remained, was in the motors that did not have the fat midsection. In this case, the evolution was from a 25hp, to a 30hp, to a 35hp, to your 28hp model, to the later 33hp, and finally to a 40hp. I believe, however, that 40hp version has a larger displacement powerhead.

    My point in bringing all of this up, is that there are parts for many of the other motors, that will fit yours. The earlier 25hp and 30hp models will have less commonality, but by the time you get to the '57 35hp, there are quite a few parts that are interchangeable.

    One item that hits me right away is the electric starter. You should be able to use one off of any of these motors from about the '57 through the 40hp that you have been looking at. That said, the very old starters are two brush starters, rather than the four brush item that was used later on. You can the difference by the length of the starter, and by how many large screw heads you count on the side of the starter - two for a two brush, four for a four brush.

  24. #24
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    Default Re: 1962 Johnson 28hp

    There are a ton of motors that use that tiller from the mid '50s right up through mid '70s. Even the V-4s use it. And the "Super Quiet" 35 and 40hp motors too. This has been a long thread and I don't remember...did I suggest posting a free want ad on the Antique Outboard Motors site?
    http://www.aomci.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl

  25. #25
    Lieutenant Commander jasper60103's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1962 Johnson 28hp

    Yea, this is very interesting stuff.
    I just spoke with a guy with a '62 40hp willing to sell cheap for parts.
    It's got a working starter and probably some other stuff I could use.
    Its very tempting.

    My parts catalog hasn't arrived yet, but maybe you may know.
    Is the gearcase assembly the same between the '62 Johnson 28hp and
    '62 Evinrude 40hp?

    Thanks again guys.
    jasper

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