1956 15 HP Johnson FD-10S - Motor Locked and Fuel Tank Issues

[learningasIgo]

I started talking about this motor in another thread, but decided I should put this in its own thread. To recap, I bought this motor with another motor that has been identified as junk by some of the more experience boaters here (1960-something Elgin (McCullogh)(I'm sure I mis-spelled that)). The Johnson is in pretty fair cosmetic condition minus paint that is quite faded on the cowling. It was sitting for the past 10 years or so in a barn, so it's to be expected with all the dust and such. Also why the motor was locked up. As I said in the other thread, I filled the cylinders up with PB Blaster through the spark plug holes and let them soak. This morning, I pulled the head and used a wooden block and hammer to lightly tap on the pistons and vibrate them free. It worked and I cleaned up the carbon buildup and checked the cylinders for any scoring or goudges. They are very smooth and clean and the motor spins freely now and head gasket looks great, so I will not be replacing it. So...we have good news so far: I have a motor that I gave $80 for (I'm counting the Elgin as total loss for now, but will hopefully get it running and sell it) that is no longer locked up and I will test compression after I re-install the head.

Now for the questions: Anything you all recommend doing before I re-install the head? Does someone know wher I can get the connection for the fuel/pressure lines? The tank that I thought might be the right one for this motor is obviously not (as it does not have a seperate line connection for pressure. I pulled the pick up tube and the screen is cracked very and will need replaced, but the tank is fairly clean and a little Sea Foam should do the trick. Has anyone ever converted a tank to a pressure tank? I am thinking about having a welder friend of mine weld a fitting onto the tank for adding the pressure line if it holds pressure after I test it. Any thoughts. How much pressure does it need to be able to hold?

Any help with this fuel issue would be greatly appreciated.

[oldcatamount]

Glad you got the motor freed up! As for the fuel tank, I would suggest that you try to find a dual line tank, (maybe Ebay or a outboard salvage yard at the top of this page). It will be a little pricey but, at least you'll have original equipment. The tank doesn't require a lot of pressure to function. there will be a small "thumb pump" on the top of the tank. Four or five pumps and she is good to go.

[learningasIgo]

Glad you got the motor freed up! As for the fuel tank, I would suggest that you try to find a dual line tank, (maybe Ebay or a outboard salvage yard at the top of this page). It will be a little pricey but, at least you'll have original equipment. The tank doesn't require a lot of pressure to function. there will be a small "thumb pump" on the top of the tank. Four or five pumps and she is good to go.

I'm assuming that is like a primer bulb?? The pressure to move the fuel does come from motor through the second line to the tank, correct?

[learningasIgo]

Assuming I get this thing running, does anyone have a good contact for paint and decals for this old girl. I think I'd like to go ahead and completely restore her as she is in such good shape.

[learningasIgo]

Also, does anyone know what the head bolts should be torqued to? Will also need the spec for the flywheel as well since I will be taking a look at the ignition parts. Thanks.

[Chinewalker]

I'd be very leery of any motor that had set up and needed to be pounded loose. Water/rust marks on the crankshaft can lead to chatter marks, loose bearings and eventual failure. I prefer to at least do a partial teardown of any motor that has seized for any reason, if for no other reason than to assure myself that it was just a ring dryseized to the cylinder wall and not a rod bearing rusted to the crankshaft...

[F_R]

The pressure tanks run at 4-5 psi. They have a pressure relief to keep them from blowing up out in the sun. Trying to make your own is like playing with dynamite.

[learningasIgo]

I'd be very leery of any motor that had set up and needed to be pounded loose. Water/rust marks on the crankshaft can lead to chatter marks, loose bearings and eventual failure. I prefer to at least do a partial teardown of any motor that has seized for any reason, if for no other reason than to assure myself that it was just a ring dryseized to the cylinder wall and not a rod bearing rusted to the crankshaft...

After soaking with PB Blaster and pulling the head, I just had to lightly tap the block of wood on the cylinders. Once it came free (after just a minute or so of lightly tapping and trying to rotate the flywheel by hand) it turned very smoothly without any catches. Would you still be all that concerned?

[learningasIgo]

The pressure tanks run at 4-5 psi. They have a pressure relief to keep them from blowing up out in the sun. Trying to make your own is like playing with dynamite.

I think I'd best heed your warning and go with factory design then. Thanks.

[learningasIgo]

Also, does anyone know what the head bolts should be torqued to? Will also need the spec for the flywheel as well since I will be taking a look at the ignition parts. Thanks.

Still looking for an answer on this one if anyone can help. Also wondering about factory paint if anyone knows where to get it. Thanks.

[learningasIgo]

Also, does anyone know what the head bolts should be torqued to? Will also need the spec for the flywheel as well since I will be taking a look at the ignition parts. Thanks.

Any help here? Also, does anyone have a good resource for factory Johnson paint for restoration purposes? Thanks

[Chinewalker]

Paint can be gotten through Peter McDowell's site (NYMarine.ca). It's bang-on for color.

I don't have a manual handy for the torque specs...

[learningasIgo]

Paint can be gotten through Peter McDowell's site (NYMarine.ca). It's bang-on for color.

I don't have a manual handy for the torque specs...

Thanks. So I am going to follow your advice on checking out the motor further. It appears it will be at least a few weeks before I get the pressure tank I am ordering through the salvage place in Texas that I was referred to by (??????I'll think of it later). So I have some time and I just as well do it right if I am considering completely restoring this motor. On the bright side, it seems the coils were replaced at some point before they put it in the barn and are in excellent (basically brand new) condition. I cleaned up the points and set them to .020 and new J4C (no J4J available) spark plugs gapped to 0.030 and have good spark. Carbeurator was pretty dirty, but cleaned up well. Will probably go ahead and put a carb kit in it for good measure.

So I guess I will be tearing the whole motor down, so if anyone has a manual on this particular motor, I would really appreciate it. Also had to order a new shaft for the tiller throttle control (the long shaft that goes into the handle) as the one on the motor was broken. They had the motor set up with a steering wheel, so the throttle gears are in awesome condition though. Anyone have any thoughts or tips they'd like to share....I'm listening. Thanks.

[learningasIgo]

Went through the motor and cleaned it up pretty nice. There was a fair amount of varnish build-up on the leaf-plate assembly and a lot of carbon build-up on the exhaust side, but everything looks good now. So I am now ready to try to fire this baby up!! But I have a fairly important question (actually two) before I do: WHAT FUEL MIXTURE FOR THIS MOTOR??

Also, the pressure tank that I have for this motor has a bit of rust in it, so I am going to open it up and clean out really well. Assuming that the tank just has minor rust damage, what can I coat the inside of it with to prevent further damage??

Thanks.

[learningasIgo]

Went through the motor and cleaned it up pretty nice. There was a fair amount of varnish build-up on the leaf-plate assembly and a lot of carbon build-up on the exhaust side, but everything looks good now. So I am now ready to try to fire this baby up!! But I have a fairly important question (actually two) before I do: WHAT FUEL MIXTURE FOR THIS MOTOR??

Also, the pressure tank that I have for this motor has a bit of rust in it, so I am going to open it up and clean out really well. Assuming that the tank just has minor rust damage, what can I coat the inside of it with to prevent further damage??

Thanks.

Anyone??

[F_R]

There are several brands of tank cleaning/coating kits. Kreme is one, from JC Whitney. They come with the stuff to clean all the junk out of it before coating it. Try a local motorcycle shop though.

[Tim Frank]

You say that you have reused the head gasket.
Usually not a good idea.
I'd check compression before going any further.

[Chinewalker]

I run 25:1 in my pre 1960 motors that have at least some roller bearings in them, such as your 15. As for keeping the tank clean once you've cleaned out the rust, they're usually just fine if you keep the water out. Either store them with a little stabilized fuel/oil mix, or store them BONE DRY in a dry place.

[learningasIgo]

Thanks. I'll let y'all know how it goes after I try to start it.

[learningasIgo]

Cleaned up the tank, hooked the lines up, primed it and it fired on the first pull. Started and ran on the second. Tuned it in the barrel as close as I could get it (don't like emptying the barrel while tuning high speed and then over-heating engine) and I will take it to the lake tomorrow for a test run and final tuning. Thanks again to all for your help. Another vintage Johnson goes from locked up to running like a champ thanks to the members of iboats. You guys are awesome!!

[learningasIgo]

Took the boat, which I just finished re-painting and putting nice wooden seats in and wanted to leak test, to the lake today to test it out. Motor started right up and I was quickly able to fine tune the high speed adjustment. The motor sits a little low and I thought I would have to raise the transom a hair, but it planed the boat out quite nicely and (I'm guessing because I don't have a gps) I'd say it was probably moving around 30 mph. Motor ran great.

So......I think I want to go ahead and restore the paint on this old girl. Anyone have a contact for this "maroonish color" and the white OEM paint and the decals??

Thanks again.

[jbjennings]

CHinewalker already told you......
Nymarine.ca
He has correct paint, decals, medallions, new tiller grips, new pull starter handles, piston rings, etc. etc. I've dealt with him many times and he is reliable, and friendly. (Peter McDowell) His decals are the best in my opinion, but the paint and such isn't cheap. But it's of good quality.
Good luck--I'd love to own an FD-10.
JBJ

[Burns1]

If you are still looking for some good used parts, I have some. Like the Tiller handle rod, I have both. I needed a fuel pump for my 1957 18hp Seahorse and my boat mechanic buddy had several motors laying in the corner of his back yard. I saw an Evinrude that lookedidentical to my Seahorse, and it had a original fuel pump mounted. Anyway he said I can have it but I have to take the whole thing motor and all. So I did and found out its like a clone of the Seahorse just different covers. Its was a 61 Evinrude 18hp pistons rusted to cylinder walls. So I have some parts that will fit your Johnson and they are cheap or free.

Later
Burns1

[learningasIgo]

If you are still looking for some good used parts, I have some. Like the Tiller handle rod, I have both. I needed a fuel pump for my 1957 18hp Seahorse and my boat mechanic buddy had several motors laying in the corner of his back yard. I saw an Evinrude that lookedidentical to my Seahorse, and it had a original fuel pump mounted. Anyway he said I can have it but I have to take the whole thing motor and all. So I did and found out its like a clone of the Seahorse just different covers. Its was a 61 Evinrude 18hp pistons rusted to cylinder walls. So I have some parts that will fit your Johnson and they are cheap or free.

Later
Burns1

Sorry for not replying. Thanks so much for offering this. Right now things are looking good, but I may end up calling on you in the future when I need parts for her.