150HP (2005) Evinrude engines went for a swim......no one will service!

[driley]

I found my boat part capsized on Sunday with the engines 3/4 underwater. They would have been underwater for around 6 hours by the time I got the boat floating again.

The fuel tank had filled with water, but the fuel lines to the engine were full of fuel. There was some water in the air intake, and when I popped the spark plugs out, there was a little water in two of the cylinders.

I loosened the flywheel cover on both engines, one seemed dry inside, the other had a little water dripping out.

My problem is that no repair shop in my area will even look at an Evinrude engine. I haven't attempted to start them up for fear of damaging the engines more. The engines ran perfectly before they went for a swim.....any suggestions?

[F_R]

Sunday, like two days ago? Can we assume salt water? It may already be too late. Bearing corrosion started when it hit the water and really accelerated the moment you pulled it out of the water. Expect the electrical system to be eaten up too. Hope you had insurance on it.

[v20 outrage]

Rule of thumb is, leave the engines under water until you can get them out & immedieatly try to start them.
If they are in salt water, immedieatly try to submerge them in fresh water until you can actually try & start them.
Most engines will surprize you & fire off.
The worst thing to do, is remove the engines from the water & let them dry out without starting them.
Sal

[boobie]

Was it salt or fresh water ?

[driley]

Salt water - man, i'm on a steep learning curve! The natural instinct is to get the boat out of the water and try to get the engines dry! I think the best thing I did was not to attempt to start the engines though.

Anyway, spent a whole day calling every boat mechanic in the country (in the UAE, they're not too easy to find online!) and I eventually found a guy 60 miles away who isn't scared of fixing Evinrudes. So I hooked the car up to the trailer and took the boat for it's live saving operation!

Now on day 4 out of the water and things are looking promising - not as much damage as i'd feared, new parts ordered and in 8 days I should have a pair of completely rebuilt, serviced and repainted 150HP Evinrudes complete with completely new wiring throughout the boat - Merry Christmas!!!

......although it's still gonna cost me around $2800 - Humbug!

[dehydrated]

i know it kinda bites but 2 motors 2800.00 doesnt seem too bad concidering what it could of been

[driley]

i know it kinda bites but 2 motors 2800.00 doesnt seem too bad concidering what it could of been

You're right, I'm pleased with the price...especially after getting him to knock $450 off the labour charges. I'll probably even end up with 2 better looking and better working motors than I started with!

I am tempted to trade them in for a pair of Yamaha's though now I've found out how difficult these are to get serviced! Would this be a wise move?.....i'm very new to boating!

[boobie]

As somebody mentioned earlier on here, do you have any insurance on this boat for these kind of probs??

[jonesg]

The reason I chose a johnson 150 was the help available here, I also bought a factory service book. Theres no shortage of marine mechanics around Boston, I just can't afford to use them, so this forum was key.

Yours are probably doomed after 4 days out of salt water. If you had flushed and started them immediately it would have been different. The main bearings are etched at this point. Thats well covered in the OEM service book. They will last a while then start knocking.

Whatever engines you decide to go with make sure you can get local help and buy the factory book for yourself, the more you know the better.

[DJ]

Salt Water-They're Done-Get a fork.

Call the insurance Company and hope.

You have some great parts engines. Ebay can be your friend. I've gained FAR MORE by parting out than the whole was ever worth.

[RadarRick]

OK, DJ, I'll bite. What to do with fork?
-fork over some cash for a pair of new ones?

[Joe Reeves]

The fork thing...... a saying used by many "Stick a fork in me, I'm done" insinuating that the engines are done for.

Hopefully you do not encounter this problem again in the future but should you......

Regardless of what the wiring or the rig looks like in general, the important thing is to get the engine(s) running immediately (ASAP). Don't attempt to get the charging system or any other system operational that does not pertain to the ignition or fuel setup.

Even if the engine isn't firing on all cylinders, as long as it's running, it will eventually blow all of the water out and in return coat everything internally with the fuel/oil mixture which allows you then to take your time to repair all of the other areas.

Underwater save procedure:
Remove spark plugs.
Remove carburetor face plate.
Remove carburetor drain plug at bottom front of float chamber.
Have primer hose & fuel tank with fresh premix (50/1) available.
Pump fuel mix into engine until fresh mix flows from all carburetors.
Install drain plugs back into float chambers.
Pump fuel primer bulb up hard.
Set fuel primer solenoid RED lever to face away from primer solenoid, OR if a electric choke model, set the choke to manual full ON.
Set the throttle to full open.
Crank engine until no water is being expelled from the spark plug holes AND fuel mixture exists at the plug holes.
Set primer solenoid back to over top of the solenoid and facing the rear of the solenoid, OR set the choke back to the OFF position if an electric choke model.
Close throttle to be just slightly higher than idle.
Install new spark plugs.
Crank engine and hope it fires up.

You'll need to remove all instrument wiring connected to the engine, that is the wiring harness between the engine and the control box in order to engage the ignition system which is self contained on most models dating from 1973 up. These models supply their own igition setup via a stator under the flywheel to the powerpack but a shorted ignition switch, corroded wiring etc in that instrument harness assembly would short out the ignition, hence the necessary removal of it from the engine. Most model simply have the one large electrical plug at the engine while the later models may have various connectors to disengage.

It involves a little luck also and I wish you that.

[driley]

The fork thing...... a saying used by many "Stick a fork in me, I'm done" insinuating that the engines are done for.

Hopefully you do not encounter this problem again in the future but should you......

Regardless of what the wiring or the rig looks like in general, the important thing is to get the engine(s) running immediately (ASAP). Don't attempt to get the charging system or any other system operational that does not pertain to the ignition or fuel setup.

Even if the engine isn't firing on all cylinders, as long as it's running, it will eventually blow all of the water out and in return coat everything internally with the fuel/oil mixture which allows you then to take your time to repair all of the other areas.

Underwater save procedure:
Remove spark plugs.
Remove carburetor face plate.
Remove carburetor drain plug at bottom front of float chamber.
Have primer hose & fuel tank with fresh premix (50/1) available.
Pump fuel mix into engine until fresh mix flows from all carburetors.
Install drain plugs back into float chambers.
Pump fuel primer bulb up hard.
Set fuel primer solenoid RED lever to face away from primer solenoid, OR if a electric choke model, set the choke to manual full ON.
Set the throttle to full open.
Crank engine until no water is being expelled from the spark plug holes AND fuel mixture exists at the plug holes.
Set primer solenoid back to over top of the solenoid and facing the rear of the solenoid, OR set the choke back to the OFF position if an electric choke model.
Close throttle to be just slightly higher than idle.
Install new spark plugs.
Crank engine and hope it fires up.

You'll need to remove all instrument wiring connected to the engine, that is the wiring harness between the engine and the control box in order to engage the ignition system which is self contained on most models dating from 1973 up. These models supply their own igition setup via a stator under the flywheel to the powerpack but a shorted ignition switch, corroded wiring etc in that instrument harness assembly would short out the ignition, hence the necessary removal of it from the engine. Most model simply have the one large electrical plug at the engine while the later models may have various connectors to disengage.

It involves a little luck also and I wish you that.

Awesome - thanks! It's just one of those situations I never imagined having to deal with. I've got the manuel for the engines ordered from ebay.....so am much more prepared!

I'll report back once the boat is back from the shop.

Thanks everyone for the help and advice....and pessimism!.... and have a merry christmas!

[patrick4266]

If you decide to go with Yamaha they are excellent, excellent,may I say excellent one more time, motors. I love them but I also love johnsons and evinrudes.

[jonesg]

Awesome - thanks! It's just one of those situations I never imagined having to deal with. I've got the manuel for the engines ordered from ebay.....so am much more prepared!

I'll report back once the boat is back from the shop.

Thanks everyone for the help and advice....and pessimism!.... and have a merry christmas!

You probably need two crankshafts and bearings, they will run ok for a short while.

[R1racer]

Just to cover the most important Q of all.........How these Eng went for that swim............. Did the bilge pump work ....? How water got in (cracked Hull, Drain Plug , ETC) .....You might consider checking on that before you even set the boat in the water to save any motor’s you end up with ..... There could be a multiple factor contributed to the disaster

Cheer

[driley]

Just to cover the most important Q of all.........How these Eng went for that swim............. Did the bilge pump work ....? How water got in (cracked Hull, Drain Plug , ETC) .....You might consider checking on that before you even set the boat in the water to save any motor’s you end up with ..... There could be a multiple factor contributed to the disaster

Cheer

The boat grounded in low spring tide and rested on it's side - the wake from passing motor boats splashed enough water to fill the whole back end of the boat, so when the tide came back in, the boat didn't go back up.


Boat is back on the water and one engine works fine - the other engine has a damaged throttle. The mechanic cannot seem to find a replacement throttle for this model of engine - any ideas on where I could get one online????

[Joe Reeves]

Describe exactly what you mean by Damaged Throttle. There are many areas which could be considered "throttle".

[jonesg]

What do you mean by throttle?
Under the cowling mechanism or the other end.
Just about all parts are available, going back to the 1930's, if you know exactly what you are looking for and where to look.
2005 parts should be online at evinrude.com , get your outboard model number and part numbers ready.