115 johnson powerhead removal

[keithm1961]

I have a 1976 115 johnson I'm getting readt to remove the powerhead on. I am assuming I remove the 4 phillips screws on the shroud that sits under the pan, then the 2 7/16 head bolts under the shroud. Then looking up from the bottom I remove how many bolts, once the shift linkage is unhooked the power heads lifts off? I've not done one before and wanted to make sure of the number of bolts holding the powerhead on.

does anyone have this info

thanks
keith

[samo_ott]

I've not done it but the safe bet would be to get the manual.

[boobie]

If you are removing the p/h for other repairs your best bet is to get an OEM factory service manual.

[Bob_VT]

Trust me....get a manual. There are SO MANY little hidden screws and bolts they will drive you crazy.

I would get a manual AND take lots of pictures. A 1976 vintage will absolutely "try your patients" and mechanical screws since there are always stubborn and frozen bolts regardless of the motor's history.

[HighTrim]

Trust me....get a manual. There are SO MANY little hidden screws and bolts they will drive you crazy.

I would get a manual AND take lots of pictures. A 1976 vintage will absolutely "try your patients" and mechanical screws since there are always stubborn and frozen bolts regardless of the motor's history.

You're telling me! I have had 3 76 Johnnies in the last couple years and everyone seemed to snap every second bolt Id torque, lol.

[emdsapmgr]

You can see how many bolts there are from the original factory parts listing on the web: epc.brp.com Don't forget the shift rod.

[keithm1961]

I went thru the manual, the problem is it really doesnt give any diagrams to show the separation points, I'm having trouble believing you have to remove the starter to remove the powerhead, seems like they have a lot of things to remove that arent necessary thought somebody might have some shortcuts.

I just removed 3 bolts per side, plus a nut at the front on each side. I cant tell if the seperation I'm looking for is at the top of the lower unit, or just above that on the tapered block.

[keithm1961]

it would appear that they call the "tapered block" an exhaust adapter plate. I've gotten the screws the manual talks about. I'm thinking probably penetrating oil and a rubber mallet. I assume the separation I want is above adapter plate.

[Joe Reeves]

Yes, the adaptor plate stays with the long exhaust housing. Speaking of the powerhead retaining bolts & nuts, here I am speaking of the total bolts & nuts on both sides of the powerhead.....

Front side portion = 2 nuts & washers - - - 2 short bolts & washers.
Side portion = 6 long bolts & washers.
Rear portion = 2 nuts & washers.

You're going to encounter 4 small rubber mount brackets to unbolt (pan to PH), various wiring to disconnect, etc.

The shift linkage.... remove the 3/8" nut, then the main 3/4" bolt, remove the two shift bars from the shift rod barrel.

Use a hand help propane torch to help loosen the seized bolts you'll encounter. Also, have a fire extinguisher and a garden hose available just in case. Good idea to have the hose (water) turned on .

[keithm1961]

Thanks
Joe
Ok I have removed the 2 nuts and washers at the front(crankshaft side) I removed 6 long bolts 3 on each side. I also removed 2 bolts about 2 inches long with nuts and washers
I have also removed the 4 bolts that hold the pan to the power head. I'm not seeing the other bolts you spoke of but will look.

I'm swapping this PH with an 85 johnny on the same year. One of the local techs said the internals on the engine is the same, he sggested removing the exhaust baffles on each motor and swapping them out to get the 115 performance. Is that true?

I'll take another look for the other bolts and nuts you mentioned

[emdsapmgr]

Other than the powerheads look identical, they are very different. In the early crossflow years, the 85 and 100 hp engines were all around 92 cubic inch blocks. The 115/135 engines were 99.6 cubic inch blocks. There is little that will interchange between them. Not sure what you are describing as exhaust baffles. Both powerheads are flatback engines. The 135 engine did have special exhaust blocks in the block, but neither of your engines have them.

[Bob_VT]

To properly replace a flat exhaust plate with a "bubble back" exhaust.... there are milling cuts that really should be done.

[Joe Reeves]

Keith.... You replied "I'm not seeing the other bolts you spoke of but will look."

I read over your reply a few times and counted what you've removed. I believe that it isn't bolts that you've missed but rather the two nuts/washers at the rear of the powerhead.

At the rear of the engine, look under the pan, where that small fiberglass shroud was, and up at the powerhead. You'll see the two 1/2" hex nuts there.

[thecrest]

I'm rebuilding my engine also and have removed all the bults and nuts mentioned above but it will not break free. Does anyone have any tricks or ideas? I'm afraid of damaging the powerhead with any prying.

[BoatingCop]

I'm rebuilding my engine also and have removed all the bults and nuts mentioned above but it will not break free. Does anyone have any tricks or ideas? I'm afraid of damaging the powerhead with any prying.

No advice on the engine, but you may want to start your own thread to get more responses relating to your question rather than hijacking someone's thread.