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  1. #1
    Seaman Apprentice
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    Dec 2009
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    Melbourne Beach FL
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    Default Plumbing schematic for 1990 Hydra sports 2200 DC-V

    Hi, I was wondering if anyone had a plumbing schematic for this boat? I'm just trying to figure out how it was set up originally. Right now my livewell drains into the bilge, but that can't be right. While the boat is sitting on the trailer I have to leave the livewell plug out so it doesn't fill up from rain storms, but it's just draining down into the bilge then out the bilge drain. The bilge is always wet, and that bothers me. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

  2. #2
    Lieutenant Junior Grade solar7647's Avatar
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    Deshler, Ohio (Toledo area)
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    Default Re: Plumbing schematic for 1990 Hydra sports 2200 DC-V

    well not shure about a schematic for it but you could rerun the drain tube so it drains over board for cheap and easy. You install a mushroom head above your water line and then run a hose from the live well to the mushroom head. You could also install a PVC shut off valve from a hardware store between the two so you can control its draining. The mushroom head is easy to install, just drill the proper size hole ABOVE the water line, put some sealer on the lip of the mushroom head so it seals against the hull slide it through the hole and tighten down the backing nut. The backing nut doesn't need to be super tight just enough to seal it against the hull. Then run your hose with or with out the valve. Then it will drain over board rather into the bilge.

    The mushroom head
    http://www.***************/webapp/wcs...classNum=10637

    1987 Four Winns 215 Sundowner...
    She may be old...but she's got it were it counts!

    My refit/re-power project
    http://forums.iboats.com/showthread....13#post2466813

    3.7L rebuild: the thread
    http://forums.iboats.com/showthread....13#post2578113


    3.7L/470 altinator set up for about $100 with little modification needed and simple tooles.
    http://forums.iboats.com/showthread....=1#post2892577

  3. #3
    Seaman Apprentice
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    Default Re: Plumbing schematic for 1990 Hydra sports 2200 DC-V

    That is pretty much what I was thinking about doing, but the bottom of the livewell sits beneath the waterline already. The livewell is in the floor at the stern of the boat. It has a pump to pump water out of the livewell. The boat has an original remote drain valve that exits next to the bilge drain but someone plugged it up before I got the boat. There is still a water hose that is laying in there that runs up to the bow fish box drainage, but it is disconnected and also drains to the bilge. Unfortunately I have to keep the boat outside, and every time it rains the water gets into the livewell and fish boxes and drains down into the bilge. There is ALWAYS water down there. See attached photos. So originally the boat had drainage for the fish boxes because the hose that is in there is original, but it doesn't make sense that the livewell would just drain into the bilge. I could just keep the livewell plug in, but then every time I go fishing it would be full of nastyness from all the water sitting in there all the time. I was thinking of splicing a T into the line that comes from the bow fish boxes and running a hose from the livewell drain into it, and replacing the remote drain valve so that I could keep it closed while the boat is in the water, then open it up when on the trailer. But wanted to see if anyone had any knowledge of how it was done originally. Also I'm guessing that my fish boxes would start backing with water from melted ice while under way. So not sure which way to go.


    IMG_0068.jpgIMG_0070.jpgIMG_0069.jpgIMG_0072.jpg

  4. #4
    Lieutenant Junior Grade solar7647's Avatar
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    Default Re: Plumbing schematic for 1990 Hydra sports 2200 DC-V

    Well i didnt relize that it was in the deck. You could use the same idea as my first post, but instead of it being gravity feed, hook the hose to a bilge pump and drop the bilge pump into the live well. You can get a cheap pump from Walmart. Then wire it up with the float and an on-off-on toggle switch just how a normal bilge pump is wired. That way when you want water to be in the well you turn the toggle to off, when your done and need to drain the well you can manually turn it on to drain and clean it and when the boat is sitting you can set it to auto so it runs off the float then when it rains and fills up the pump will kick it on and pump it out.

    if that make sense
    1987 Four Winns 215 Sundowner...
    She may be old...but she's got it were it counts!

    My refit/re-power project
    http://forums.iboats.com/showthread....13#post2466813

    3.7L rebuild: the thread
    http://forums.iboats.com/showthread....13#post2578113


    3.7L/470 altinator set up for about $100 with little modification needed and simple tooles.
    http://forums.iboats.com/showthread....=1#post2892577

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