Cleaning a carb with an overdose of carb/fuel system cleaner???

[ngt]

I was talking with a guy on another boat tech forum and he said sometimes with people have a varnished carb causing problems they use a 10x dose of something like a Chevron with Techron fuel system cleaner. He said it takes a long time and I may have to run through a few tanks of gas over days/weeks to get it all better, but he said it has worked. He also said that sometimes it doesn't work but it can't hurt your engine. I'm just flat broke and don't have the money to take it in for a carb cleaning. Has anyone ever heard of doing this? Is it safe for my motor? 9.8 4stroke tohatsu?
Opinions? Thoughts?

[yorkboater]

I've never heard of that but if you are prepared to spend the money on a case of fuel system cleaner and several tanks of gas, wouldnt it be cheaper to just get the carb cleaned by a professional?

[ngt]

I've never heard of that but if you are prepared to spend the money on a case of fuel system cleaner and several tanks of gas, wouldnt it be cheaper to just get the carb cleaned by a professional?

I've been quoted $300-400 by Ace Marine for a carb clean and what he called "possible muck work". Take it they never saw the motor prior to the quote.

Honestly, how much should I expect to pay for a carb clean?

[pvanv]

$400 to clean a 1-bbl. OB carb? Jesse James used a gun to rob people; these folks are just trying to use an invoice to do the same. Obviously they don't want the work -- and have priced themselves out of the job, so I would find another shop. Should be about an hour of shop time. Obviously they don't need to charge shop rate when the carb bits are soaking in their bath. As I mentioned on that other board, if you don't want to bother with cleaning, a new carb for the tiller model 9.8A2/A3, 3V2031002M, costs $171.12, and can be purchased from any dealer, including me. Likewise, if you have a Remote model, you would get 3V2031332M CARBURETOR, F9.8A2/A3 (P) $201.42.

[Sea Rider]

Bonny & Clyde were amateurs compared to, is your engine not working well as to need a carb cleaning ? if so, next time you use it, run carb dry while flushing. To clean a carb is not any out of this world issue, learn to do it yourself would be the way to go.

Happy Boating

[ngt]

Bonny & Clyde were amateurs compared to, is your engine not working well as to need a carb cleaning ? if so, next time you use it, run carb dry while flushing. To clean a carb is not any out of this world issue, learn to do it yourself would be the way to go.

Happy Boating

I think my biggest worry is getting it all apart and messing up putting it back together. I was told you need to take a seal out to soak it and must put it in right. Guess I can give it a go. If worst comes to worst, I can advertise on CL for someone to put it back together for $25 or something, lol.

Is there a specific carb cleaner to use?

Anywhere that has a video of the complete take apart and soak? I've seen an 8hp merc carb spray clean on youtube and it was helpful.

[NetDoc]

Most carbs just aren't that hard to deal with. If your all thumbs, don't try it. Other than that, why don't you explore it a bit and see how complicated it is for you.

In my mind, running THOSE solvents at THOSE concentrations past any rubber could cause it to breakdown and plug the system. That could permanently screw up your carb.

[ngt]

Most carbs just aren't that hard to deal with. If your all thumbs, don't try it. Other than that, why don't you explore it a bit and see how complicated it is for you.

In my mind, running THOSE solvents at THOSE concentrations past any rubber could cause it to breakdown and plug the system. That could permanently screw up your carb.

ok. That does make sense. Any particular carb cleaner or solution you would recommend for spraying out and/or soaking the carb?

[NetDoc]

The best stuff was Hydro-Seal but I don't think that it is currently available. Berryman's Chem-Dip is probably the best available solution. Gunk has a dip as well, but I don't think its nearly as aggressive.

[Sea Rider]

What doing when stripping something that don't know specially carbs is take pictures while in the process of taking appart, remove all rubber/plastic components, use appropriate cleaning products, as we don't have that stuff down here, just use acrylic thinner to soak for some time and then apply carb clean with nozzle to every carb hole, just in case thinner has not removed complete obstruction. Running bowl dry would be the way to go once carb is working properly again.

What you could do with mix & idle screw adjustments is, get a Vernier tool and measure each setting before it's removed, measure from carb body to upper head screw, then when assemblying back will be at previous adjustment as long engine has not been tampered. Do believe if it's factory adjusted and working properly, must remain same. All my carbs remains with factory settings and performing beautifully.

Happy Boating

[isaksp00]

I did my Honda 8HP carb myself, and it was not that hard - and yes, it worked when I was done. I would recommend buying a proper factory service manual - for Honda, it was maybe $30 or so. I am not a mechanic, but am "OK" with mechanical stuff. That manual is not that great where it describes the carb, but is better than nothing; maybe Tohatsu's are better.

You should be able to see if it will be easy to remove the throttle and choke linkages and fuel lines and then the carb itself just by examining the outside. On mine, there's not that much to remove - the bowl comes off the bottom, there's a float and needle valve inside (watch that you don't let it fall out and lose tiny parts), a nozzle that comes out, remove the drain screw from the bowl, the idle (or pilot, whatever it is called) jet unscrews from the outside, the adjustment screw likewise, then there's the choke plate and throttle in the carb body itself. Now, the aluminum carb body is full of all kinds of holes and tiny passages that snake around the inside (invisibly), I just sprayed and air jetted them as much as I could, and I did not need to do the carb dip routine. There are a few gaskets (one for the bowl and one for the carb to block), just be careful removing them or better yet buy new ones.

I'd try that before buying a new carb - worst case, you kill the old carb and have to buy a new one anyway.

[NetDoc]

What you could do with mix & idle screw adjustments is,

For tapered mix screws, gently count the turns in until it is lightly seated. Upon reassembly, reverse that process. Don't mess with linkage limiting screws, including idle unless you absolutely have to.

[pvanv]

There aren't any tapered seat screws accessible on the Tohatsu F8/9.8 carb.