Suzuki 140 Installation Problem

[epresutti]

Folks,<br /><br />Picked up my motor today Suzuki 140 w/long shaft (after much debate and discussion on what to buy and also reading all the feedback in these forums). Got all the parts, guages, etc. Next door neighbor works for Marine dealer, excellent price, installing on my rebuild, offer from shop boys to come over and help with installation. 2006 w/6 year warranty. Happy so far.<br /><br />Problem: When I rebuilt the transom (and I don't know how or why this happened) I wound up with a 24" transom when I wanted a 25! I guess I did not measure correctly. The original transom was set up with 20" so I wanted to raise it for the long shaft. Now that it is 1" too short is this going to be a problem mounting the engine? Can I move the bolts down to the lower holes, I figure this will give me about 2 1/2" of meat between the bolt hole and the top of the transom. I was also going to mount an aluminum plate on the inside for additional support.<br /><br />I really don't want to add a Jack Plate. Also, does anyone know where I can get the installation or shop manual for this motor, the box came with a owners manual and on page 8 under installation it says "take it to the dealer".<br /><br />Any and all help is greatly appreciated.<br /><br />Peace.<br /><br />Ed.

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Suzuki 140 Installation Problem

thats cause according to suzuki ALL installations MUST be done by an aurthorized dealer and a PDI sheet signed by the installing tech and the selling dealer and attached to the warrenty registration card, try to set the motor with the cavitation plate about level with the bottom of the hull. the top two mounting holes must be 2" below the top of the transom, the motor has about 4 holes to adjust mounting height. if your going to circumvent the dealer you really need to order a service manual.

 

[epresutti]

Re: Suzuki 140 Installation Problem

Rodbolt,<br /><br />Plan on ordering service manual, does this have to come from suzuki, or are there other sources.<br /><br />I should have been more specific in my previous post, when the cavitation plate is even with the bottom of the transom the top hole will be above the top of the transom. So Rodbolt are you are saying I need to raise the transom?<br /><br />Thanks in advance for the help.<br /><br />Peace.<br /><br />Ed.

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Suzuki 140 Installation Problem

if thats the case then yes you will need to raise the transom. a few aluminium plates welded up will suffice.<br /> were it me I would order it from suzuki, most aftermarket manuals cover to many models to be useful. there should be 4 holes for mounting on the brackets. any hole you can use is acceptable. but the hole in the transom must be 2" from the top edge of the transom.<br /> each hole is about a 1/2" increase or decrease.<br /> the object is normally to set the cavitation plate level or plus or minus 1 inch from the bottom of the hull. higher will increase speed some, lower will help the prop stay hooked up in the water. most saltwater centerconsole boats we try for sligtly lower to help with cavitation in waves. bass boats dont normally have to contend with it and most bass boats have a different hull bottom design.<br /> but we still dont know what hull or hull length we are discussing so its all a generic thing.

 

[jim dozier]

Re: Suzuki 140 Installation Problem

Bite the bullet and buy a jackplate. It will be less expensive (if you get a manual one) and a lot less trouble than trying to reconfigure your transom. As an added bonus your boat will go faster (if you take advantage of the jack plate and select the proper prop).

 

[epresutti]

Re: Suzuki 140 Installation Problem

Rodbolt,<br /><br />Thanks much, I have ordered the shop manual and have measured a couple of different boats (pro-line, Carolina Skiff, Boston Whaler, stopped by a dealer) that have Suzuki's on them, mine is a Mitchcraft Hull (Sarasota builder, I think they are out of business now). I will locate the top bolts approx 22" above the bottom of the transom, which basically hits the 4th hole. I will locate the bottom holes within 2" of the bottom of the slot to allow for adjustment down, just in case.<br /><br />I will raise the transom approx 1 1/4", however the bolt holes will be 2" below original transom height (24"). I will back the bolts with 1/4" Aluminum plate 4" x 18" on the inside of the transom to help spread the load for both sets of bolts. This matches the installation I have seen on several other boats.<br /><br />Based on what I have read and seen this should do it. You think?<br /><br />Jimd,<br /><br />Thanks for the feedback, I get your point, Saw fixed plates around $135 new and $75 used. This is a rebuild and I can fix the transom w/out too much trouble, I would rather not have the plate.<br /><br />Any additional comments and thoughts are welcome.<br /><br />Peace.<br /><br />Ed.