RB, dilligaf, Clams, need help!

KCLOST

Commander
Joined
Jun 22, 2002
Messages
2,095
1986 Merc. 175.<br /><br />I did some ohm tests on the stator and they were'nt good. (see tesing Stator/Switchbox post). If I replace the stator, will that require the need for Timing/synchronizing work?<br /><br />Here are the ohm readings from the stator leads...<br /><br />My seloc manual states...<br />Between blue and red stator wires = 4.5-6.2 x1000<br />Blue/White and Red/White = 5.4-6.2 x1000<br />Red to Ground = 125-175 x1<br />Red/White to Ground = 125-175 x1<br /><br />I got, in the same order... = 31.35 x1000<br />= 3.92 x1000<br />= 67.7 x1<br />= 69 x1<br /><br />None of the readings were in range. Kind of makes me wonder how I can even start the motor (it runs very rough however, won't idle). I can handle the replacement, but timing I'm not sure about.... Any thoughts?
 

Clams Canino

Commander
Joined
Jan 10, 2004
Messages
2,179
Re: RB, dilligaf, Clams, need help!

So long as you don't disturb the trigger settings - no. The stator in and of itself does not impact timing.<br /><br />-W
 

KCLOST

Commander
Joined
Jun 22, 2002
Messages
2,095
Re: RB, dilligaf, Clams, need help!

That's cool :D <br /><br />Clams, what do you think of the ohm readings? Can you determine anything out of them... Is the whole stator bad, or one winding or the other (regardless, I guess it needs replaced)?<br /><br />I'm going to check spark on all cylinders later today (I have to rig something up first to do it). <br />Just got done checking compression, all cylinders 125 psi... :D :D
 

DHPMARINE

Captain
Joined
Dec 16, 2003
Messages
3,688
Re: RB, dilligaf, Clams, need help!

KCLOST No need for Sync and Link when doing this.Get the motor back to health and then do it.Once and awhile it will tweak performance some.<br />DHP
 

KCLOST

Commander
Joined
Jun 22, 2002
Messages
2,095
Re: RB, dilligaf, Clams, need help!

Thanks DHP,<br /><br />I just got done checking spark. 2,4 & 6 are fine. I'm not getting anything out of 1 & 3 and just an occasional spark when the engine is running on #5. During cranking I don't get a spark at at all on the starboard bank...<br /><br />I guess I just want to make sure that the stator is what I need to pull, and not something like one of the switch boxes before I go spending the money... Do my symptoms confirm what my ohm readings were on the stator (which indicates failure)?
 

rickdb1boat

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jan 23, 2002
Messages
11,195
Re: RB, dilligaf, Clams, need help!

Found this:<br /><br />No fire on the 1,3,5 or 2,4,6: Swap red and red/white wires, also blue with blue/white wires. If the problem moves to the other set of cylinders, the stator is at fault. Disconnect rectifier and retest. If the engine fires normally, replace the rectifier. If no change, we recommend replacement of the stator. If you replace the stator and the problem remains try another flywheel, if possible.
 

KCLOST

Commander
Joined
Jun 22, 2002
Messages
2,095
Re: RB, dilligaf, Clams, need help!

I'll try it RB, <br /><br />This may seem like a stupid question, but switching the stator wires, won't mess up the ingnition sequences? (I'm just getting to know this monster).
 

dilligafda

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 13, 2003
Messages
315
Re: RB, dilligaf, Clams, need help!

Nope, stator does not affect timing. It only makes voltage. swapping the trigger wires around could give you fits though! :eek:
 

KCLOST

Commander
Joined
Jun 22, 2002
Messages
2,095
Re: RB, dilligaf, Clams, need help!

RB, When you say, disconnect the rectifier, you are talking about disconnecting the two yellow leads attached to it, right?<br /><br />And, I only need to do this if after I switch the stator leads from one switchbox to the other, there is no change to which cylinders have fire.<br />If 1,3,5, get fire after I do switch them, I obviously have a stator problem and there is not need to check the rectifier?
 

dilligafda

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 13, 2003
Messages
315
Re: RB, dilligaf, Clams, need help!

The rectifier has nothing to do with the ignition on this engine. Disconnecting it will only cause a lack of voltage to the battery. If you switch the stator leads between the switchboxes and you regain fire on 1,3 & 5 you have a failed stator. If not, then replace the switchbox.<br /><br />Good luck!
 

KCLOST

Commander
Joined
Jun 22, 2002
Messages
2,095
Re: RB, dilligaf, Clams, need help!

ARRRRRRGHHHH!!!!<br /><br />Tonight I switched the stator leads, red/blue from one switchbox with the redwhite/bluewhite on the other.... Turned the motor over, just cranked it, and nothing changed... No fire at all on 1,3&5 and a good spark on 2,4&6....<br />This has got me all messed up... Why the h@!! are my stator ohm readings all bad, if it's not the stator at fault. <br /><br />According to this latest test I need to replace one (probably both) of the switch boxes. :confused: :confused: :confused: <br /><br />I want to thank all of you for your help, but can anyone explain my stator ohm readings? How can both a stator and a switchbox go bad at the same time? This all started while the engine was running on the muffs at idle speed...
 

Clams Canino

Commander
Joined
Jan 10, 2004
Messages
2,179
Re: RB, dilligaf, Clams, need help!

Did you disconnect the stator to ohm it out?<br /><br />-W
 

KCLOST

Commander
Joined
Jun 22, 2002
Messages
2,095
Re: RB, dilligaf, Clams, need help!

I did just as my seloc manual said. I disconnected the red and blue wires, ohm'd them out. Then did the same with the red/white and blue/white wires. Then ohm'd red to ground and red/white to ground while they were still disconnected...<br /><br />So I disconnected the red and blue leads only on both switchboxes.<br /><br />I guess this latest test does confirm that the stator is working properly at least. I must be getting voltage from both windings, just not getting anything out of the inner switchbox. I just can't understand the ohm readings.... <br /><br />I guess tonight, I'll switch all the switch box wires and see if then I get fire to 1,3 &5, this will really prove that the switch box is the problem and not the ignition coils possibly...
 

KCLOST

Commander
Joined
Jun 22, 2002
Messages
2,095
Re: RB, dilligaf, Clams, need help!

When ohming out the stator leads, should both of the yellow wires be disconnected from the rectifier. I never did that, could them being connected affect my stator readings as to become out of range?<br /><br />My Seloc manual didn't mention that, but I thought I'd ask...
 

rickdb1boat

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jan 23, 2002
Messages
11,195
Re: RB, dilligaf, Clams, need help!

You should disconnect all the wires when ohming them out.
 

dilligafda

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 13, 2003
Messages
315
Re: RB, dilligaf, Clams, need help!

Originally posted by KCLOST:<br />When ohming out the stator leads, should both of the yellow wires be disconnected from the rectifier. I never did that, could them being connected affect my stator readings as to become out of range?<br /><br />My Seloc manual didn't mention that, but I thought I'd ask...
The rectifier wires shouldn't effect the ignition stator ohm readings. What kind of meter are you using to perform these tests? Different tester will provide different results. Do you have a peak reading volt meter? That would be the definative test of the stator. Let us know!
 

KCLOST

Commander
Joined
Jun 22, 2002
Messages
2,095
Re: RB, dilligaf, Clams, need help!

I'm using a Fluke 112 True RMS meter. It's not a peak reading volt meter, but for ohm checks I would think it would work great. <br /><br />I am not measuring volatage output with it.
 

dilligafda

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 13, 2003
Messages
315
Re: RB, dilligaf, Clams, need help!

OK I guess I need to know where we are at this point. <br /><br />What cylinders do we have fire on?<br /><br />What was the result of switching the red and blue with the red/white and blue/white wires between switchboxes?<br /><br />Does the engine run?<br /><br />I have gotten a bit confused with the jumping around between ohm specs and meters and all that jazz. Let me know what you find out - thanks!
 

KCLOST

Commander
Joined
Jun 22, 2002
Messages
2,095
Re: RB, dilligaf, Clams, need help!

Ok, I'm not getting fire to 1,3 & 5 cylinders. 2,4&6 are fine. The motor runs, but not very well, it won't idle. I have to throttle up some to keep it running. Again, it's only running on 3 cylinders. So I started with ohm testing on the stator and trigger leads.<br /><br />The ohm readings on the stator are shown on my opening post (with the Manual specs also). The readings were taken with the Fluke meter on the OHM setting. I disconnected the red/blue/red-white/blue-white leads prior to testing. Pretty standard. None of the stator readings were within the specs shown in my Seloc manual (the comparisons shown above). All of the trigger lead tests came out fine (within spec).<br /><br />So I thought I had a bad stator, possibly the low speed winding bad or something. Just to confirm it's the stator, I went ahead and switched the red and blue wires with the red-white and blue-white (switched leads from one box to the other) as you and RB suggested. <br />I turned the motor over (I didn't start it just cranked it). And there was NO change to which cylinders fired. Still no fire on 1,3,5 and 2,4,6 are firing normally.<br />So now I'm all confused, I have bad ohm readings on the stator (that I triple checked) and my manual says I should replace it, but when I switched the wires it confirmed that I'm getting voltage from both the red/blue and red-white/blue-white leads to the switchboxes. But since the spark or lack thereof didn't change on the cylinders I now have what appears to be a bad inner switchbox. And my stator is fine (I guess). <br />I can't understand the OHM readings being all messed up when it appears that the stator is working properly. I'm afraid of buying anything until I get an understanding of what is actually going on here....<br /> :confused:
 
Top