Engine swap (repower)

[CATransplant]

Re: Engine swap (repower)

It's an interesting puzzle. I'd put the other plugs in it, just for a lark, and see what happens. Who knows? Enjoy your Laughlin trip.

 

[Dhadley]

Re: Engine swap (repower)

The black plugs and running rich are a clue. We just have to figure it out. Are the plugs wet and black or dry/sooty and black?<br /><br />It really doesnt matter now but if I cant believe the rebuilder isnt / wont help. Unreal.

 

[ddbyrd3]

Re: Engine swap (repower)

The plugs are wet and black

 

[ddbyrd3]

Re: Engine swap (repower)

I replaced all the coils, plug wires, basically everything but the power or coils packs.. whatever they are called..

 

[ddbyrd3]

Re: Engine swap (repower)

The engine builder told me that I must have damaged the hull of the boat to cause this problem, and refused to discuss it any further....

 

[Dhadley]

Re: Engine swap (repower)

Thats nice. What a guy.<br /><br />One thing we might do is run the motor with a test wheel. That will seperate the motor from the boat. If the r's come up on the test wheel then the motors OK. I suspect they wont. He should have at least offered that if hes certian the motors OK.

 

[ddbyrd3]

Re: Engine swap (repower)

I dont remember it running so rich prior to the motor being rebuilt. Could I have a reed problem that may be causing this..<br /><br />The motor idols fine about 900 RPM it will studder every 30-45 seconds or so causing the motor to move. But overall it idols just fine...<br /><br />I will install the plugs DHadley suggested prior to taking it to laughlin this weekend. What gap should I set those at??

 

[Dhadley]

Re: Engine swap (repower)

This brings us back to why I asked if it was using a tremendous amount of fuel. If the hi speed jets were left out itll run below wide open but it will really suck a lotta gas. And not develope top rpms. Since you said it really didnt we assume the jets are there. BUT, I wonder if theyre seated correctly or if theyre the proper ones?<br /><br />Another thing -- you said the timing was set at 28*. Have you checked it yourself or are we taking his word for it? <br /><br />Now -- does it idle at 900 in neutral in the water or 900 in gear? And studdering every so often is not right at all. <br /><br />You can gap those plugs at either .030 or .040.

 

[ddbyrd3]

Re: Engine swap (repower)

The jets are on the side of these carbs, assuming they were not touched during the rebuild, they should be fine, I rebuild them myself.. I can check to see if they are seated properly, but they ran fine prior to the rebuild, and have not been touched since.<br /><br />900 RPM is on the trailer with a hush muffler installed to create back pressure.<br /><br />28* is taking his word for it.. I dont have the necessary equipment to verify. Unless you know an easy way I can do it..<br /><br />As far as the studdering, it idols good, then every so often it will cough, kick the motor to to side slightly, and idol smooth again.. Its not popping, more of a cough..

 

[Dhadley]

Re: Engine swap (repower)

He should have rebuilt the carbs as a standard part of the rebuild process. Just like a new water pump, retorquing the heads, deflectors etc.<br /><br />Perhaps we should look at the timing. Actually the best scenario would be to put it on a test wheel and then we can check the timing and the top rpms. <br /><br />Another thought, when you said the timing was at 26-28 I assumed you had checked it -- totally my fault -- so it was pointless to ask if the timer base was moving to the stop. I should have finished the thought and asked before. But I'll ask now but I'll bet youve already looked to see if it is going to the stop when the throttle is advanced.

 

[ddbyrd3]

Re: Engine swap (repower)

YEP.. verified that last night as well, full throttle, and the timing base is on the stop in the WOT position.<br /><br />The engine builder asked about the carbs and water pump at the time of rebuild, I told him I just did both of them (carb rebuild and water pump) so he didnt do either. He just asked about the stream of water out the pee hole, and how it ran prior to it blowing up..

 

[ddbyrd3]

Re: Engine swap (repower)

Let me ask this question, is there a way to static time it, or does it have to go on a test wheel?????<br /><br />The reason I ask, is because I remember taking it to a local shop om "01" and had them verify the timing, but they did a static type of test. Some sort of fixture to ground the plug wires, cranked the motor over, tweeked the timing and said he set it to 28*

 

[Dhadley]

Re: Engine swap (repower)

Yes you can. Do you have a timing light?

 

[ddbyrd3]

Re: Engine swap (repower)

yes

 

[Dhadley]

Re: Engine swap (repower)

Cool. Take all 4 plugs out and ground them of hook up a spark checker. We want to give the spark a definate path to ground. And one thats not in the path of any fuel that blows out. Advance the throttle to wide open and watch the timing while spinning it over. <br /><br />You want to set it so that itll fall 4* short of your target. In this case we're looking for 28 so set it for 24. If its close now, we should be set. If its way off we'll move the stop. Right now we're not worried about a couple of degrees. We still need to verify it under a load later.

 

[Dhadley]

Re: Engine swap (repower)

Oh -- youll want to set the timing pointer first. Bring the #1 piston to the top and verify that the pointer lines up with the 0 on the scale.

 

[ddbyrd3]

Re: Engine swap (repower)

I will do that tonight when I get home....<br /><br />Dhadley, I have learned more in the last 2 days than in the last 5 years....<br /><br />Thanks for your time...

 

[Dhadley]

Re: Engine swap (repower)

Thanks. We'll get this figured out yet. We just gotta start with the basics. <br /><br />Speaking of that, have you done a compression test lately?

 

[ddbyrd3]

Re: Engine swap (repower)

I will do that tonight as well...

 

[ddbyrd3]

Re: Engine swap (repower)

I cant advance my throttle to WOT and turn it over. It must have a safety or something.. Any ideas. I guess I could use a screwdriver and ark across the relay..<br /><br />The pointer does point to TDC with #1 at TDC<br />(the fly wheel says TDC not 0.)