Neck sparing

FREDERICO

Cadet
Joined
Feb 4, 2002
Messages
13
I was told that keeping/charging my batteries (trolling and cranking) on-board my dearly loved 175 aluminum Bass Tracker would cause serious hull corrosion. Accordingly, said batteries were only left on board for comparatively short periods and always removed for charging (although there is an on board battery charger...)I've sustained a serious neck injury recently and my ability to lift heavy weights is seriously compromised.What do you say?<br /><br />Thank you all.<br /><br />HB
 

umblecumbuz

Lieutenant Junior Grade
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Sep 25, 2004
Messages
1,062
Re: Neck sparing

HB<br /><br />Think you'll find that such corrosion is caused by electrolytic reaction. With an isolator switch (or sdimply disconnect the terminals when not in use) you kill the circuit which should stop such a reaction. Once isolated, they're nothing more than rectangular plastic boxes.<br /><br />Maybe someone wiser than me will explain in more detail.<br /><br />You'd probably get more corrosion if you tipped the batteries while removing/installing them, from the spilt battery acid.<br /><br />Ciao
 

FREDERICO

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Feb 4, 2002
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13
Re: Neck sparing

Thanks, Stillfishing; and what about charging them on board? will it create holes in the hull?<br /><br />HB
 

crazy charlie

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Joined
May 22, 2003
Messages
5,388
Re: Neck sparing

You can charge them on the boat as long as you dont leave them charging all the time.If you are charging the batteries when the boat is on a trailer you have nothing to worry about at all.When you add an onboard system is where the trouble begins.When you need to ground things is the beginning of the electrolsis.If you have stray current in the marina you will get electrolsis.Charlie
 

cbnoodles

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Sep 9, 2004
Messages
564
Re: Neck sparing

Alen,<br /><br />The electrolysis Stillfishing refers to is a result of current flowing through the hull. Electrolysis drives away negatively charged ions and you are left with oxidized aluminum. At any rate, this is not going to create holes in your hull. <br /><br />If you don't have the electrical system connected to the batteries while charging them, this should not be a problem. As Stillfishing said, they are just plastic boxes where the hull is concerned until you connect them with a ground.<br /><br />If the batteries ventilate while charging (which they do), the vapors contain acid that can corrode any metallic substance. It is for this reason it is not advisable to charge the batteries while they sit in the boat or near any corrodible material without adequate ventilation.<br /><br />If you don't want to remove the batteries while charging them, try placing a fan nearby so the fumes are quickly dissipated into an open, i.e. outdoor, area.
 

umblecumbuz

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Re: Neck sparing

... and for goodness sake don't smoke while they're being charged!<br /><br />I had mine charging once, and I was grinding 20 feet away when one blew up and wrecked some of my gear. Just one stray spark did it. Frightening - especially when a bit of hot shrapnel hits you on the head, causing you to grind the end of your finger off.<br /><br />It would have set the Professor's head on fire - just look at that haircut!<br /><br />Incidentally, electrolytic reaction is more severe in salt water conditions - as everybody knows!!
 

umblecumbuz

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Re: Neck sparing

HB<br /><br />For what it's worth, a bit more info on electrolytic reaction and batteries....<br /><br />Corrosion of metal boat parts is caused by an electro/chemical reaction that takes place when differing metals are in physical or electrical contact with each other while they are also in contact with an electrolyte. The water in which the boat sits, or even bilge water when the boat is on the trailer (always dry out your boat after use!), as well as the water circulating in your engine’s cooling system, are all potential electrolytes. Salt water is a great electrolyte, and sunshine doesn’t help either, because the higher the water temperature the faster the corrosion. Big problem where I live, with a very salty sea and non-stop sun!<br /> <br />To minimise corrosion, a sacrificial metal – the anode – is looped into the circuit. That's the dirty-looking hunk of metal usually screwed to your outdrive or leg. It gets eaten away (sacrificed) instead of the cathode (the ‘noble’ metals on your boat, like the engine and expensive fittings!). <br /><br />As the anode dissolves, its effectiveness reduces because its surface area diminishes– that’s why anodes should be replaced BEFORE they get too small. Anodes that work well in salt water differ from those for fresh water. Local knowhow should guide your choice.<br /><br />There's a lot of nonsense talked about this subject, and about batteries causing holes in boats. Common sense says fit an isolator switch to every battery, thus taking it out of circuit. Sit it on rubber or similar, not a metal tray. Keep it clean and dry externally. Ventilate ALWAYS, especially when charging - hydrogen is given off, and your boat could end up like the Hindenberg.<br /><br />Happy fishing!<br /><br />Ciao
 

cc lancer

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Aug 23, 2004
Messages
371
Re: Neck sparing

How can electrolysis occur on a bass boat sitting on a trailer, sitting on rubber tires, and a jack with a rubber or plastic wheel?
 

umblecumbuz

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Sep 25, 2004
Messages
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Re: Neck sparing

CC<br /><br />Imagine a bulb, a battery, and two wires connecting both. The bulb will light up, whether it's placed on a sheet of rubber or directly on the ground. And with boats, the water is the 'wire' that joins dissimilar metals together and forms a circuit. It doesn't matter if the boat's isolated on rubber or not. If it has dirty bilge water left in it, or if the foam's waterlogged, you have the potential for a circuit, and hence corrosion.<br /><br />Sometimes you see outboards advertised that are covered in corrosion. Bet you the owner's a slob, who doesn't dry out his boat - and bet there's no anode left on the motor either.<br /><br />If the boat's bone dry inside and out (always pull the plug and tilt the trailer), and the engine's drained of brackish (or sea) water - there's no electrolyte present - no circuit - so no corrosion. Apart from pride of ownership, that's another good reason to make sure your boat's cleaned down and dried - INSIDE AND OUT - after each use.<br /><br />Ciao
 

FREDERICO

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Feb 4, 2002
Messages
13
Re: Neck sparing

Let´s see if I got it right:<br /><br />The boat has to be dry and well ventilated; if on the trailer with the batteries isolated, charging with the on-board charger will do no harm to the hull.<br /><br />My neck thanks you all respectfully.<br /><br />HB
 

FREDERICO

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Joined
Feb 4, 2002
Messages
13
Re: Neck sparing

Let´s see if I got it right:<br /><br />The boat has to be dry and well ventilated; if on the trailer with the batteries isolated, charging with the on-board charger will do no harm to the hull.<br /><br />My neck thanks you all respectfully.<br /><br />HB
 

umblecumbuz

Lieutenant Junior Grade
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Sep 25, 2004
Messages
1,062
Re: Neck sparing

Alentejano<br /><br />Right - no harm at all to the boat.<br /><br />If yours is a lead-acid type battery (aka car), just make doubly sure the area is WELL VENTILATED! Even if it's a gel-type, where the byproducts of charging are recombined within the battery (ie. hydrogen and oxygen), it's still good practice.<br /><br />Makes for a long and happy life. More fish!<br /><br />Ciao
 

tcube

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 18, 2001
Messages
397
Re: Neck sparing

HB,<br /><br />I have an aluminum Lowe bass boat with an onboard charger that has is connected to 2 of the 3 batteries in the boat anytime it is parked in my drive on the trailer. Despite all the words about corrosion and electrolytic reaction - I have had zero problems on my boat. Been using this set up for more than three years I even keep them on charge (trickle) during the off season.<br /><br />tcube
 
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