1989 Mercury 60 hp Stator and Trigger WiringI issues

Pusher

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The wires on my stator and trigger harness are exposed and corroded. Is it possible to repair these (soldering new wires?) or will I need to fork over the $350? That's kind of steep for me since it's a new to me motor and I'm not sure what compression is.

Mod Edit - Do you know iBOATS is a marine retailer? Not very nice to link to a competitor!
 
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Pusher

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My brother suggested using a timing light to see if I was getting spark on all the leads before writing off the two parts and spending money.

I'm going to do that and then clean the carbs if I am getting spark and just fous on getting the motor running before replacing parts.

It ran when I bought it, and it ran for 5 minutes ast season while I was doing some pre-splash testing.

If anyone has any other suggestions I'd be happy to hear them or if there's a thread on bringing a motor to life after sitting, I'll read that too.
 

dpmsgeek

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My 1986 has the same issues but I had enough good wire to solder onto. It's just a temp fix for now but, I was able to run on it for the summer. If you end up replacing, would you consider making a how to?
 

Pusher

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I don't know if I know enough to make a how-to but I'll stay open to the idea. In case you beat me to it please send me your thread info.
 

Pusher

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This is a stupid question but what does the trigger do?

Also, if I push the key in to choke my motor should I hear a solenoid engaging?
 

DavidMoore

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No such thing as a stupid question, only stupid answers.

In short, trigger provides the signal to tell the plugs when to fire.
My engine has 3 cylinders, therefore the trigger has 3 coils set 120 degrees apart, as the magnets on the flywheel pass the coils engine goes bang. As the throttle advances the trigger assembly rotates slightly, and therefore the timing advances.


Yes you should hear a click (probably), if you have the typical enricher system it is the solenoid on the enricher valve operating.
The enricher valve is probably fed from bowl top carb, so follow the hose to find it, check you have voltage when pushing in the key. If voltage and no click it the enricher valve will need replacing. If no voltage check out the wiring (don't have the manual so can't tell you where to check).
You will need this to be working to get enough fuel for a cold start.
 

Pusher

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Thanks David. That helps keep me on track. Historically I have bad luck with project motors so I'll start with the solenoid and see if I'm getting gas out of the fuel pump too.

I'll have my wife turn the motor over too to check for spark.

Any additional advice is welcome.
 

DavidMoore

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OK you asked for it. :)

No point in spending money or time on motor if compression is bad, so check it first (make sure the battery is strong and squirt in a bit of 2 stroke oil to lubricate the cylinders). You just want all the readings to be consistent (within about 15% of each other) don't worry about the actual values because they can be misleading.

Then get a service manual, best money you will ever spend if your serious about getting the engine up a running properly and safely, and you will learn lots along the way.

Then following the manual

Replace the impeller <--------------, this is a must do, no matter how good the old one looks, replace it now and every 2 years from now, and never run or crank the engine without water supply. No point in doing all the work and spending the money just to melt your engine on it's 1st trip out. A few bucks is all it takes.

Rebuild the carbs with service kits.
Replace the gear oil.
Change plugs making sure to use the correct ones, given a choice go with NGK.
Check carbs are properly linked (all open at the same time and by the same amount)
Check carbs and ignition timing are synched (following the manual) and of course that you have spark.
Grease everything that needs greasing.
Got trim and tilt, check it works


Change all the fuel lines, from tank to engine. including primer bulb. with ethanol resistant lines. (old fuel lines can clog your nice clean carbs and ruin your day real fast)

Should be good to go.
 

Pusher

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Service manual arrive on Thursday :)

I don't have a compression tester. This and the kicker will be the only motors I forsee owning so I'm not sure it would be worth the money yet.

I pulled tge plugs but decided to replace once manual is here to list model.

Carb kit will be ordered once I narrow it down to a fuel issue.

Impeller change will happen after carb rebuild assuming i make it that far.

Thanks for those tips. That should keep me going for a while.
 

Pusher

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I held the plugs while my wife crancked the motor. No spark. It's always strange wishing you had been electrocuted. The choke did work as it turns out. Should fuel come out the carb throat when choking? I pulled the fuel pump out hose and got fuel. Is there an easy way of testing the stator before my manual comes later this week? Is that a corroded ground in photo 2? My gut is telling me the corroded wires aren't the problem since the last time I started it was only a year ago and the wires were corroded when I bought it a few years ago. I guess it was an hour drive at 70mph back from the lake though... 😫😣😥😖
 

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DavidMoore

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Sure the kill switch is not activated.
You have to get those electrical connections clean, bright, and tight. Once clean reassemble with some dielectric (non conducting) / silicone grease to prevent further corrosion.

For trouble shooting and test procedures visit the technical support section of the cdielectronics website, very useful and clear info.
 

Pusher

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I'll give them a look tonight. I have my manual in hand tonight so time to start reading up. In the meantime do I need to buy a puller to get the head off or do some of you have some other tecniques?
 

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Pusher

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I have a couple hours tomorrow to pull the flywheel off my motor to check that the stator is grounded. Assuming I can get it off. Does anyone have a "home remedy" to pulling it without the Mercury tool?
 

Mercurylips

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Pusher. I have a 77 50HP and no way could I get mine off without a "puller" unless I broke it off. It doesn't have to be a Mercury tool just a good puller. I would post a picture of mine if you wish. Let me know.-ML
 

Pusher

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Yes please. The manual said not to use anything that pulls from the outside so I immediately ran out of ideas.
 

Pusher

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Any last words before I go fumble around my motor? It's lazy coffee time on the west coast.
 

Pusher

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What is the electrical plug for on the top forward part of the control unit?


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Number three plug was the only one looking fouled. It's okay though right?


image_252990.jpg



Is the pull knob on the motor for manual choking?
 
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Pusher

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The wires on my stator and trigger harness are exposed and corroded. Is it possible to repair these (soldering new wires?) or will I need to fork over the $350? That's kind of steep for me since it's a new to me motor and I'm not sure what compression is.

Mod Edit - Do you know iBOATS is a marine retailer? Not very nice to link to a competitor!

Yes I am aware, and I did research our site first but the cart total was about $70 more than your "competitors". I purchase from our site when it is competitively priced (and have purchased in the past), but my budget is not open to those kind of surcharges. I'll try to omit links in the future and just paste in part numbers as text going forward.
 
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