1992 Bayliner Capri Rebuild

brianq

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jul 15, 2012
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Worked my butt off this weekend! Sanding is all finished, pretty much the worst job ever. Being 6'4" my arms were pretty much exposed the whole time so you can imagine the itching. I sanded all the bubble in the glass on the stringers out exposing some wood, its in perfect shape. Im going to put fresh glass over them before I put the new floor down. I cut through the hull.... twice I am picking up some biax to fix those spots.

New steering cable and pivot tube on its way

Took out the starter, has anyone seen a good video showing how to clean them? The bendix sticks occasionally. I bought some 1x pine to build new bulkheads since thats what the stringers are made of.

The seat boxes will be a bit of a challenge since they sit on the floor and the hull. The have to be cut to match the slope of the hull, seems like this could be difficult.

I have decided to glue in carpet again so I dont have to worry about the appearance of the glass.

 
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brianq

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jul 15, 2012
Messages
145
A few questions maybe someone can help me out:

Best way to remove the striping from the hull?

My bow boxes are in decent shape. I sanded the bottom portions down to tab in the new floor. The parts that arent totally sanded down, I think its gel coat on them? Can I put 1708 over that or CSM just to water proof them or do they need to be sanded down to the wood?

Thanks!

 
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further

Lieutenant Junior Grade
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Jun 18, 2009
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Stripping? Do you mean pin striping on the outside of the hull? If so, i just removed all of mine with one of those rubber wheels that is used with a drill (pinstripe eraser) 3M makes one but its pricey and there's a few others out there that are cheaper but I found the 3M one works the best and lasts the longest. Amazon carries them and some auto parts stores do as well.
 

brianq

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 15, 2012
Messages
145
Stripping? Do you mean pin striping on the outside of the hull? If so, i just removed all of mine with one of those rubber wheels that is used with a drill (pinstripe eraser) 3M makes one but its pricey and there's a few others out there that are cheaper but I found the 3M one works the best and lasts the longest. Amazon carries them and some auto parts stores do as well.


Great thanks! Ill pick one up.
 

brianq

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 15, 2012
Messages
145
A few questions maybe someone can help me out:


My bow boxes are in decent shape. I sanded the bottom portions down to tab in the new floor. The parts that arent totally sanded down, I think its gel coat on them? Can I put 1708 over that or CSM just to water proof them or do they need to be sanded down to the wood?


The hole i made in the hull because I got carried away demoing if I patch the inside with biax is the marine grade bondo acceptable for the outside of the hole? Better product?
 

Woodonglass

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Dec 29, 2009
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Is the hole above or below the waterline? Gelcoat needs to be completely removed.
 

brianq

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jul 15, 2012
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145
Is the hole above or below the waterline? Gelcoat needs to be completely removed.

Thanks for getting back


The hole is just above the water line.

Wood I read an old post of yours and have a ? ... When I put in the floor 1708 is just for the tabbing? CSM on both sides then 1708 tabs.. It doesnt get covered in 1708?
 
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Woodonglass

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Dec 29, 2009
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You lost me..Are you talking about tabbing the floor to the sides of the hull.
 

brianq

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jul 15, 2012
Messages
145
I have installed the new bulk heads and floor. I have a few questions maybe someone can help me out:


The CSM on the floor is not very smooth, will this be a problem when I install the carpet? Should I sand it smooth? I dont want to compromise it.

Is there any paint I should use to seal the floor and existing bow boxes? I will be installing carpet so I am concerned if I paint and then install carpet the carpet will only adhere to the paint and not the floor eventually separating.

Any chance of finding the factory Bayliner carpet since i left some it would look better if I find the same one.

As always thanks.
 

Woodonglass

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Dec 29, 2009
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I have installed the new bulk heads and floor. I have a few questions maybe someone can help me out:


The CSM on the floor is not very smooth, will this be a problem when I install the carpet? Should I sand it smooth? I dont want to compromise it. I'd sand down any MAJOR rough spots and if you do sand through to the wood just patch em in with some scraps of CSM.

Is there any paint I should use to seal the floor and existing bow boxes? I will be installing carpet so I am concerned if I paint and then install carpet the carpet will only adhere to the paint and not the floor eventually separating. NO PAINT!!! Did you use wax in the resin? If not you might consider putting down on more layer of CSM (I always recommend 2 layers of CSM on the topside of the deck unless you're gelcoating) and adding wax to the last batch of resin. It'll help with waterproofing the deck and make it easier to sand. It'll help with the smoothness too.

Any chance of finding the factory Bayliner carpet since i left some it would look better if I find the same one. I doubt you'll find the factory carpet for this age of boat.

As always thanks.

See comments above...
 
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brianq

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 15, 2012
Messages
145
[/QUOTE]



WOG: In this picture you can see the cap is a mess with resin and dirt stuck to it. The glass guy didnt work very neatly :facepalm: Any advice on getting it off? Light sanding? If so can you recommend a grit to use?

It also looks like the someone keyed the boat on the previous owner. I plan to remove the decal (the gray) and paint it next winter... Any adivce for getting some of these marks off the gel coat (blue) (see below)

- I appreciate all your advice

 

Speak

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 29, 2012
Messages
467



WOG: In this picture you can see the cap is a mess with resin and dirt stuck to it. The glass guy didnt work very neatly :facepalm: Any advice on getting it off? Light sanding? If so can you recommend a grit to use?

It also looks like the someone keyed the boat on the previous owner. I plan to remove the decal (the gray) and paint it next winter... Any adivce for getting some of these marks off the gel coat (blue) (see below)

- I appreciate all your advice

[/QUOTE]

We'll you could try buff that out but it won't come out I bet. I had the same problem with my bayliner. I ended up wrapping the top part "blue part" with a metallic vinyl. Looks awesome in the sun and on the water. Just a thought.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
Sand the deck with 60 grit. Wet Sand the hull starting with 80 and work your way to 220. Then read and Study this...Paint Your Boat with Tractor Paint...Say What!!!
eek.gif
You can get some pretty good results. This member sure did...http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...968-glastron-gt160-rebuild/page70#post9957957
 
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brianq

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 15, 2012
Messages
145
WOG: In this picture you can see the cap is a mess with resin and dirt stuck to it. The glass guy didnt work very neatly :facepalm: Any advice on getting it off? Light sanding? If so can you recommend a grit to use?

It also looks like the someone keyed the boat on the previous owner. I plan to remove the decal (the gray) and paint it next winter... Any adivce for getting some of these marks off the gel coat (blue) (see below)

- I appreciate all your advice


We'll you could try buff that out but it won't come out I bet. I had the same problem with my bayliner. I ended up wrapping the top part "blue part" with a metallic vinyl. Looks awesome in the sun and on the water. Just a thought.[/QUOTE]



Thanks for the advice I looked though your thread you never posted pictures of the wrapped hull.
 

brianq

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 15, 2012
Messages
145
I went to Walmart to buy a battery this weekend and found there are WAY more batteries then I expected. The lable on my current battery is illegible. Anyone know what kind of battery I need?
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
Depends...Just need it for Starting the boat and running the lights and gauges???
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
What kind of motor do you have? Does it have an Alternator/Generator that charges the battery? If so then a standard auto "Cranking Battery will work for you. If not then you might want to invest in a Marine Deep Cycle Battery that you can Charge with your own stand alone charger. This Wal-Mart Marine battery would be a good candidate if you go that way.http://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart-...ttery/16795212
 
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