1976 Tom Boy Boat, 1976 40 HP Johnson Outboard and who knows what Trailer

sphelps

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Nov 16, 2011
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You could leave the eye's out if you want ..
But depending on how you do the flip you may need to use them to flip .
You could use them to flip then take em out for the paint ..
 

gm280

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You could leave the eye's out if you want ..
But depending on how you do the flip you may need to use them to flip .
You could use them to flip then take em out for the paint ..

Yea I think between myself (more as a director) my two adult sons and their friends, I really don't think flipping this hull will be much to do. So I think I will remove the bow eye and tie-down eyes on the transom as well before painting. That way everything gets coated and looks better after the accessories are reinstalled. JMHO!
 

gm280

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Well I kind of pushed the temps today. I installed a 6" strip of 1708 all along the top starboard side of the hull using poly and the temps were only 62 degrees. I hope I didn't screw up royally. We'll see. I got tired of waiting for higher temps to work on it. There is so little to do to flip it over, I am getting anxious. :facepalm:
 

sphelps

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It will cure ... But you might want to bump up the mekp a little ...
 

gm280

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It will cure ... But you might want to bump up the mekp a little ...

Yea Sam, I did add just a little over the 1% mixture, but I guess I should have gone more. I still have the port side to do, so I can up it then. :thumb:
 

gm280

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Okay I have some more updates. The temps were again in the mid 60's today and I 1708ed the Port Side of the boat top section. Being how the Starboard Side did cure hard and nicely, I decided to push on.
IMG_0072.JPG
Here is the initial layout of the 6" 1708 getting ready to poly it on.
IMG_0073.JPG
And here is the polyester applied.
IMG_0074.JPG
And the front section with the 1708 and poly. Not much to look at, but it give the top edge of this hull some much needed support for when I flip this over to paint before the rub rails are reinstalled again.

After it cures, I will go over it with a sander to level any over reaches above the lip edge and make a good solid top edge again. Now the entire inside of this hull has had polyester and fiberglass laid over the entire hull. Yea, probably way over kill, but it does make it less flimsy. Now the front platform and a few side box covers and lets go! :thumb:
 

gm280

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I have to ask, has anybody ever mixed pigment in with polyester and MEKP mixtures? I was wondering if a 1% MEKP poly mixture with white pigment would give a solid color to use inside rod boxes or storage areas. :noidea:
 

nurseman

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I have no idea if that would work. You could always try a small test batch on some scrap to see if it kicks off like it should. Ondarivr might have a definitive answer for you, he is the guru of all things poly.
 
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gm280

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Yes nurseman, If I just looked at the U S Composite website where I bought all my polyester supplies, they actually sell a lot of different colors to add to polyester to offer an opaque color of your choosing. Some times I don't put in the home work before asking questions on these forums. I need to stop that and do the investigations myself. :facepalm:
 

gm280

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That brings me to an interesting question. Would you use Polyester with Coloring, Gel Coat, or Truck Bed Liner Finish in rod boxes and storage areas? I can see any of those options working, but what would be the best? :noidea:
 

Woodonglass

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If you're gunna tint your resin don't go beyond the 10% ratio. I've heard if you do it can do funky things to the mix. I'm with sphelps, I'd use the hull paint, unless you just wanna "speriment" with sumthun difurnt!!!;)
 
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gm280

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Sam and WOG, I could go that route, but here is my thinking. If I go with the bed liner coating, it offers a rubbery coating the will help seal the compartments even more and keep the items in those storage areas a little more protected from bouncing and moving around. So that seems like a good idea. However, I was wondering about how to allow drainage in those boxes in the event water did get in. The rod boxes are sitting about half way up the side of the hull. And while I am trying to seal those compartments from any type water getting inside, if water does get in, how do I drain them? :noidea:

I even thought about installing some simple drain fittings and run the tubing to the back at the bilge area. But I am now rethinking that idea. I am now thinking that IF water gets in, and I honestly don't know how that could happen, I use a sponge and soak it out and dry it. What do you all think. I am open to any idea. The front storage area is no big deal. It will drain via the center area that has a drain installed already. But the rod boxes and two other dry type storage areas are still an iffy subject for me. :noidea:
 

gm280

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If you're gunna tint your resin don't go beyond the 10% ratio. I've heard if you do it can do funky things to the mix. I'm with sphelps, I'd use the hull paint, unless you just wanna "speriment" with sumthun difurnt!!!;)

WOG, the US Composite websites suggests to use 1oz liquid color per quart and 4oz per gallon. So that is a lot less the 10%. Must be some really opaque liquid colors. :noidea:

Presently I am leaning towards roll on Bed Liner type coatings for the rod boxes and storage areas because of the rubber like coating. But who know what tomorrow will bring. The more I research, them more options I see. I am certain you all know how that works. :facepalm:
 

Woodonglass

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Yeah, like I said, just don't go beyond 10%. I think most mfg's of the tints. recommend 3-5% but some people think More is better!!!:D:eek::faint2:
 

gm280

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I have to admit, I did something really stupid yesterday. While that really isn't that unusual for me, it is a first for what I was trying to do. I watch Red Herring's Finnish boat project. He is a master at such things. And I like his hatch and hatch cover designs. So I decided to try and mimic them. I found some solid PVC material to use as the barrier around the hatch opening.

I cut all the PVC parts and clamped them on the hatch opening and even used some clay type material (couldn't find fillet wax locally) and made my concaved corners fillets. And everything was shaping up to start making my hatch openings with the polyester and 1708/CSM layered fiberglass. But I knew I still needed to use some type release agent, so I could remove the PVC mold setup after it was cured.

And so I actually have a spray can of release agent spray. And I liberally sprayed the setup so that the polyester will release from the mold type setup. Only thing, I sprayed the entire area. And that means even the actual wood/fiberglass hatch that the lips were to attach to. So now I have to remove everything and thoroughly clean all the release agent from the actual hatch opening and hopefully get it to accept the lip material.

I'm thinking a lot of lacquer thinner and an acid brush may work to accomplish that. But who knows now. How can I be so stupid? It is a characteristic accomplishment I worked on from birth. I am glad it was one of the smaller opening I chose to try first. The other longer rod box opening were to come if this worked out. :facepalm: :eek: :der: :frusty:
 

Mikeopsycho

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Oh darn! I know the feeling, except my stupid wrongdoings usually include some pain and or bleeding. I agree, Red Herring's hatch covers are awesome, and I'm sure yours will be too once you get them done.
 

gm280

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Oh darn! I know the feeling, except my stupid wrongdoings usually include some pain and or bleeding. I agree, Red Herring's hatch covers are awesome, and I'm sure yours will be too once you get them done.

Yes but they maybe totally removable, if you catch my drift. :facepalm:
 

Woodonglass

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Oh, I've NEVER, NEVER, NEVER done ANYTHING like that, NOPE, NEVER EVER. Can't make me admit it. Never Happened. I'm Perfect!!!! Just ask the Admiral She'll be happy to tell you ALL about it!!!! She KNOWS!!!!!:facepalm:

Back to Reality now!!! Sorry for your Brain Fart!!! You Will Recover and soon it will become a Fond Learning Experience!!!!:rockon:
 
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