1985 force 125 carb mixture screws

[Shifflett115]

i have a 1985 force 125 outboard on a 19ft bayliner cuddy , the question i have is about the mixture screws on the carbs , mine are set at 2 1/2 turns out , it runs great but is it too much. i hear people that set theirs at 1 1/4 turns out, will i hurt anything running the motor the way it is now?

 

[john from md]

Re: 1985 force 125 carb mixture screws

If your engine is set up correctly, the screws should be set about 1 to 11/4 out. With your screws out that much, you are using more fuel than you have too and probably getting more carbon build up in the engine.

John

 

[sidenberg]

Re: 1985 force 125 carb mixture screws

I am surprised that the engine would even run very well with the screws turned out 2 1/2 turns. Are you sure you are counting each turn as a full 360 degrees?

 

[Shifflett115]

Re: 1985 force 125 carb mixture screws

yes i am counting the turns correctly , i will turn them in tomorrow and run it on the muffs and see how it does i just dont want to run it too lean and burn it up

 

[sidenberg]

Re: 1985 force 125 carb mixture screws

I have a 1987 Force 125. I have found it to run best at 1 turn. Anything more than that I get a slight shutter in gear at the lower idle range.

 

[Shifflett115]

Re: 1985 force 125 carb mixture screws

well i moved the mixture screws in today and ran it on the muffs and it ran about the same but less smoke, i had to turn the idle down it was idling about 1500 rpms ,hopefully it will warm up again soon and i can take it out and run it and see if i notice any diffrence,what should i look for ,are those screws known as the idle mixture screws.One more question ,what should the idle be set at when it is running on the muffs or in the water?

 

[john from md]

Re: 1985 force 125 carb mixture screws

The only way to properly adjust the idle on these engines is in the water in gear. Without the backpressure of the water and load by the drive train, you cannot get the idle set properly.

In the water, you should adjust the idle to 700-750 in forward gear. Don't worry what your idle is on the muffs as it is irrelevant. When you set your idle speed, then adjust the mixture screws to get the highest rpm, then go back and readjust the idle speed to 700-750.

Just remember not to adjust the mixture screws less than 1 turn out.

Regards,

John

 

[ENSIGN]

Re: 1985 force 125 carb mixture screws

Make all your adjustments IN THE WATER. You'll burn it up if it's to lean and it's better off a little smokey.

 

[mick97]

Re: 1985 force 125 carb mixture screws

I have an 85 force 85hp.
Where are the mixture screws located at?
I seem to be using quite alot of fuel,and just wanted to check them for distance.
Seems to be flooding out a little on WOT.

Thanks,
Scotty

 

[john from md]

Re: 1985 force 125 carb mixture screws

The mixture screws are located at the front of the carbs. If you have an intake manifold, it may have small holes for a screwdriver to feed through. Sometimes they have rubber grommets covering the holes.

How do you know it is flooding out at WOT? What is the engine doing?

John

 

[mick97]

Re: 1985 force 125 carb mixture screws

Hi John,

Ok,gotcha on that

We had talked before,but the thread went dead i guess.lol
Im the newbee from minnesota that couldn't WOT.

Remember?
85 bayliner with a 85 hp force.
To recap:
Goes fine until 1/2 way through throttle,and cuts out.

Then I run it slower for 1-2 minutes,and WOT,and it takes off for about 5 secs,and boggs down.
Since we have talked,I got a plug tester,and seems like plenty of spark.
Also tried the bulb thing,a different tank,took off the filter to the gas and checked it,and went further and checked the diaphram,and got a new prop.

Seemed like when i had someone in the front,it went a tad longer at WOT.

I pulled it up in the drive way today as we had 60 mph winds down on the dock,and i live on the lake next to the loading ramp.Glad I did..lol
Wasn't expecting the wind as bad as it was today.And it's been a windy year.

So was just going through the things I could.

Will have to get a timming light some time and check that too.

But it seemed to have wet and a tad oily plugs,but I guess that can be normal.
It will once in awhile die inbetween shifting lately,so I do need to take it out,and set a higher idle.

I did take off the manifold today,and cleaned out the black insulation off of the inside,as it needed it.
Also took the black hose off of where it comes from the motor,and goes to the manifold.
Could not blow through it,but mabe the motor has to be running for it to suck air hu?

Later I took it off of both ends and blew,and insulation(black stuff) came out the other end.

Cleaned out the hose,and took off the little pet **** or attachment to the moror as well.
So should be good to go,but still thinking it has to be running to move air through that.

So should be all cleaned good to go there.

Sure is a little pin hole to that petcock,or attachment.

Ran wd40 through it,and cleared that as well.
Boy I can see that any little obstacke could clog that easily.

Do you know if that being clogged would matter alot?Heck it must of been clogged a long time by my thoughts,just because of such a small air opening,but who knows.

Get back to me when you can.
Thanks
Scotty

 

[john from md]

Re: 1985 force 125 carb mixture screws

I go TDY sometimes and don't have computer access so, if I was following the thread, it probably got lost in the mix.

I remember your situation somewhat. The line under the carbs is part of the fuel recirculation system. It sucks excess fuel from the intake manifold. This comes from tilting the engine, rich starting etc. The elbow under the carbs contains a very fine orifice that will clog easily. It is there so, even if the line was removed from the intake, you would not lose an appreciable amount of vacuum. Cleaning with a spray cleaner is the proper way of cleaning it out. Never poke at it as you can disloge the orifice.

I don't believe this being clogged would cause your WOT problem. Even with the hose disconnected the engine will run fine. As for wet plugs, there is always a little fuel mixture on them when you remove them. If there isn't, then it is time to get concerned.

If your spark is good then I would start looking at tank vents and carb fuel bowl vents. The vents on the carb are on the right side looking at the carbs. It is a little brass fitting with a hole in it. Try spraying carb cleaner or WD40 in these vents to clear them out.

I'm having a hard time telling you what else to check as this is a unique problem.

John

 

[mick97]

Re: 1985 force 125 carb mixture screws

Hi John,
Ok,you do remember.ha

Gotcha on the hose,and wet plugs.

Well I know about those little brass deals.
I will clean them out today.


Guess the only way to do it is clean them,and take it out on the lake and try it.
With all the insulation from the cover floating around previously,it could of clogged them.
Tried a different tank,so already did that one.

Won't know till the weekend as its in the drive way right now,and just want to clean up things a little more while I have it there.

Thanks for the tips.Always learning...........
Scotty

P.S.
Only use wd-or spray correct?
Not a needle or something.

Also,mabe air tank and blowing it would work?

 

[john from md]

Re: 1985 force 125 carb mixture screws

If you were sucking insulation into your carbs, that could definitely cause fuel or air starvation at WOT.

As for the orifice, you can use air if you have a blow gun or carb cleaner or wd40 if you don't. Take the elbow off and blow on both sides. Then hold it up to a strong light to see if it is clear. The hole is really small so don't expect much.

Regards,

John

 

[mick97]

Re: 1985 force 125 carb mixture screws

Thanks,

I wd40'ed all 3 of them.
Also checked the mixture screws.Looks like they are all set at 1 turn out.
Should they be 1 and 1/8th or more?


Also mabe i should shoot down the carbs with some wd40 too hu?
Guess anything would help.
Scotty

P.S.
On another note,in the pic below,the trim bar i guess it would be called.When running out on water,should it hit the back,and then I click trim until it goes all the way to the back of the boat until it goes no further(stops).

Or by just going down until it hits the bar(and no further)will that keep it loose enough to pop up possibly in case I hit something in the water?

I suppose if I take it all the way in,it does not pop up or out if I happen to hit something hard.

Scotty

 

[john from md]

Re: 1985 force 125 carb mixture screws

WD40 is a water displacing fluid that turns to varnish when it dries. You can spray it on any part on the engine and, if done enough, you will get a yellowish varnish coating. It keeps the metal from corroding.

I don't spray WD40 inside carbs due to the varnish issue. I use carb cleaner for them.

As to the engine trim, I have never owned anything but a manual trim so I couldn't tell you how it should work. On the manual trim engines, you position a cross pin in one of the holes (my current boat likes position two) and see how it works. If it porposes, then you go down one hole, if it bow stears, you go up one hole.

As for locking the engine down, there is a lever under the forward engine cowl that can be turned 180 degrees. One way locks the engine down and the other unlocks it. As I am always in 8 foot or deeper water, I always lock mine down. If I was in a lake or river, I would keep it unlocked.

John

 

[mick97]

Re: 1985 force 125 carb mixture screws

Sounds good.

Mabe I can get it out tomorrow night and try it.
Depends on the weather here.I will let you know the outcome.
Thanks a million,
Scotty

 

[tylermcobb]

Re: 1985 force 125 carb mixture screws

John - Where is the engine lock you mention above? I haven't noticed it before and was wondering if there was such a thing. I'm also always in deep water so would be comfortable locking it.

Thanks,
Tyler

 

[john from md]

Re: 1985 force 125 carb mixture screws

On manual tilt models, it is located at the 12 o'clock position looking forward, under the cowl. It is hard to see when standing but if you kneel down, you can see the lever. Turn it one way to lock, the other to unlock.

I do not know if hydraulic tilt engines have a lock. I would think they don't need one.

I lock the engine when I put the trailer bracket on and then unlock it and lift it to the dumping position and use the lock on the side for that. After it is in the wate, I lock it and it stays locked until I come in. I have had to use fast reverse a couple of times in crowded areas and I don't want that engine coming up when I need it.

 

[SweeperForce]

Re: 1985 force 125 carb mixture screws

The only way to properly adjust the idle on these engines is in the water in gear. Without the backpressure of the water and load by the drive train, you cannot get the idle set properly.

In the water, you should adjust the idle to 700-750 in forward gear. Don't worry what your idle is on the muffs as it is irrelevant. When you set your idle speed, then adjust the mixture screws to get the highest rpm, then go back and readjust the idle speed to 700-750.

Just remember not to adjust the mixture screws less than 1 turn out.

Regards,

John

Does this hold true for the 1989 150hp too?

Tom