newb of all newb questions

[RbBugBitMe]

Hello,

My brother bought a boat and really dove in head first without researching too much so we're learning as we go.

I'll preface with we believe we've been lied to about the boat so we don't know much about it.

We believe it is a 1985 Bayliner Ciera 2555 but is there some sort of information plate that will tell us exactly?

It has a painted red Volvo Penta 260A V8. I'm having a difficult time figuring out the specs on this guy. What kind of power should it have? What outboard drive came with it? Is there anything more to starting it than turning on the engine compartment fan and then turning the key (it was having starting problems and now won't start at all). When it did start it was overheating when we went past 30-40% throttle. What is normal running temp though? I saw 120 deg F on another thread...

I just ordered the workshop manual so hopefully that will answer a bunch of questions.

Hopefully this link works which has more pics.
http://gallery.me.com/kevin.camstrategic/100094

Thanks for any help you can give. I'll be pouring over this forum for a while but I haven't seen a whole lot on the 80's 260A engine so far.

 

[mjgates]

Re: newb of all newb questions

I believe that is 260hp. When starting, run the blower for a couple minutes first. You will probably have to give it a little gas, in neutral when starting. Normal temperature is around 170 or a little above. Is the engine cranking at all and just not turning over? If it is cranking, first thing I would check would be the kill switch. I made this mistake many years ago when I bought my first boat, took it to the shop and the kill switch was on. He flipped it to run and started it right up. Check your carb and make sure it is getting gas. And then you need a spark. Most starting issues, if the engine is cranking, are minor.

 

[RbBugBitMe]

Re: newb of all newb questions

It cranks about a 1/4 turn and then I just hear a fast clicking. When I turn the battery selector guy (1/all/2/off) to 1 (volt meter at 8 volts which is the lowest it will display) all the lights dim and not much happens and when I turn to 2 (volt meter around 10 volts) the lights get a lot brighter but it still barely or doesn't crank so my first step tonight is to get the batteries tested.

We did have the boat plugged into the dock and it still did the same thing. The volt meter didn't change either, shouldn't it have?

This is just one of the issues. When it did run it ran pretty crappy so we're thinking the carb is gunked up pretty bad.

When you pay someone to winterize and de-winterize (word?) shouldn't they be checking all this stuff for you?

 

[Philster]

Re: newb of all newb questions

Winterize and de-winterize does not mean to "Check engine and mechanicals".

They wouldn't even fire the engine up.

 

[ziggy]

Re: newb of all newb questions

We believe it is a 1985 Bayliner Ciera 2555 but is there some sort of information plate that will tell us exactly?

on the starboard side of the transom you should find a hin (hull identification number). the 1st 3 letters are the mfg. the last 2 numbers are the year.

When starting, run the blower for a couple minutes first.

the new uscg suggestion is 5 min. + open the engine compartment and have a sniff. your sniffing for fuel vapors. if you smell them, don't turn the key because maybe you'll go boom.
as for the no start, dim lights etc. go through the engine compartment and find all connections that you can find. take them apart and emery cloth them till shiny. grounds too. especially the batt. connections. also go to the adults only thread at the top of the i/o fourm. there you can find some tips on no start. you may also be able to find your service manual there too, maybe.

Winterize and de-winterize does not mean to "Check engine and mechanicals".

They wouldn't even fire the engine up.

i hope that's not true. at winterization i always start mine up one last time after i change the engine oil so the new oil is run throughout the engine... i also start it up for summerization when i do my spring tune up. i also take a compression reading too so i know where i'm starting at and to know it's the same as last years numbers. don't know about shops though. i winterize/summerize myself so i know what's occurred..

most important tool your gonna get for your new boat is gonna be your oem service manual. it will have the facts in it about your rig. wherever you get it at..

I'll preface with we believe we've been lied to about the boat so we don't know much about it.

that would be the norm. sellers rarely tell you the truth... boats, cars, anything... but especially boats...
lastly, if you've not had any boater safety classes be sure to take some. they're fun and you'll likely learn a lot..

 

[mjgates]

Re: newb of all newb questions

Sounds like most likely a discharged battery or battery cable connection, and if not either of those, possibly starter soloniod. Although I'm not sure it would crank at all if it was the starter solonoid.

Overheating, any water coming out of exhausts?

 

[Philster]

Re: newb of all newb questions

Winterization involves draining, fogging, and suffocating the engine... so I don't know what kind of mechanical check up or diagnostic that'd provide considering you are basically starting the engine to quickly make it stumble. Not exactly time to tell if she is purring like a kitten. And this assumes that a pro winterized it and fogged/choked it.


Summerization is a less formal thing, and it's not exactly a mechanical survey.

 

[superpop]

Re: newb of all newb questions

If you want accurate info then you need to post more info, like is it freshwater cooled or raw water cooled, that will effect running temp, and what has already been done on boat if anything maint wise. If you just went and purchased this boat with no inspection and no mechanical survey, then you or your bro have taken a huge risk, as I am sure you now know. I would start with the hull and try to determine if it is rotten or water logged, if the hull and interior all check out then I would take it in for a complete tune up unless you want to do this yourselves, if you do decide to do it, wait until you get the OEM manual for your specific motor. And just in case you do not know, do not start the motor at all without it being in the water or on a hose with running water, or you will do damage very fast.

 

[JimS123]

Re: newb of all newb questions

Winterize and de-winterize does not mean to "Check engine and mechanicals".

They wouldn't even fire the engine up.

OMG, you better fire that mechanic and get the word out about him big time.

De-winterizing means clearing the anti-freeze, running the engine to temp to be sure the TS is OK, checking the cooling system lines for leaks and being sure the engine runs at the correct operating temp.

It also includes checking the block for leaks, to verify that the mechanic that winterized it did it correctly.

 

[Fireman431]

Re: newb of all newb questions

My .02...worth exactly what you're paying for them...

Get new batteries. If they are showing only 8 & 10 volts respectively, they they aren't holding charge enough to start the engine. Besides, new batteries every season or two is cheap insurance that you'll start up after a day on the water. Ask a mechanic.

Have a qualified mechanic look over the engine prior to doing any boating with it. Have him show you what he's doing, so you can learn the important things. Spend the couple of hundred bucks for the fluid changes and tune up. If you just "guess & go", you're liable to wind up paying thousands for a replacement engine or outdrive (overheating kills a lot of things).

Temp should run anywhere from 170-190, depending on load and speed. Talk to your mechanic.

When starting it, there may be a 'choke' position on the ignition switch. Pushing the key in when turning it to the start position activates an electric choke. This most common with 2-stroke outboards, but I have seen it on inboards with an electric choke on a carburetor. Talk to you mechanic.

As far as the mechanic (see a pattern here?), get one that's reliable and trustworthy...of course, that's another whole string...

A little time and money spent up front will come back 10-fold in peace of mind and enjoyment with your boat in the future.

Best of luck.

 

[Home Cookin']

Re: newb of all newb questions

fireman nailed it. Hire a mechanic for a shake-down cruise. Consider it part of the purchase.

 

[RbBugBitMe]

Re: newb of all newb questions

1. The HIN is BL2A558T J485. This confirms it?s a 1985 but what other info can you get from this? Is it the 2555 because of the 55 in there? Can anyone tell what model stern drive (right term?) it came with?

2. I?ve been told that the battery switch should always be on 1 unless we?re sitting around blasting music or whatever, then move it to 2. Unfortunately it?s been on ALL since we received it. I?ll be taking the batteries to pep boys tonight.

3. ziggy ? I?ll pick up the cloth and find some electrode protective cream or whatever its called that I?ve used on my car. OEM service manual is on the way.

4. mjgates ? I?ll have to check for water out of the exhaust but I?m not sure how much is normal. Can?t check till it starts up though.

5. superpop ? It is at three rivers in Pitt so its in freshwater. I?m not sure yet what this means about the raw water pump vs. some other named pump I saw online. I?m assuming there is the one on the impeller and one on the engine. Are both always used together?

6. Fireman431 ? We?ve found a new mechanic who were just going to ask to make it purr and give us a call when its done. As newbs we need to start off on the right foot and learn a little at a time. This failure from 3 or more different areas of the engine isn?t going to do much more than frustrate us.

I?m hoping the mechanic will spend 20 minutes with me to go over all my questions.

 

[airdvr1227]

Re: newb of all newb questions

Welcome aboard. You have much to learn but you're at the correct place to learn it.

 

[RbBugBitMe]

Re: newb of all newb questions

Thanks, I look forward to becoming future-ryan who knows all about Bayliner's.

 

[RbBugBitMe]

Re: newb of all newb questions

1 battery was tested tonight and was dead. Got a warranty replacement and put it in, lights came on, trim tab thingers moved, not even a click from the starter now. Really weird that it doesn't make a peep now.

 

[180shabah]

Re: newb of all newb questions

have you checked/cleaned ALL cable connections?

 

[RbBugBitMe]

Re: newb of all newb questions

nope, it was dark by then and i dropped my iphone into the water sooooo that was the end of my night.

 

[RbBugBitMe]

Re: newb of all newb questions

I'm back with new problems.

First, the boat got a new starter, battery, bilge pump, raw water pump, and spark plug. It was running on 7 cylinders due to a cracked spark plug and we have discovered a cracked manifold spewing out water so it still over heats above 40% throttle.

The new manifolds and risers will be installed this week but there is a bigger problem.

All 5 windows around the cabin including the hatch are leaking a lot. I'm not sure which 3M sealant to get though from this page. http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?66666UuZjcFSLXTtMXfXnXfXEVuQEcuZgVs6EVs6E666666--

Also, am I dealing with fiberglass or gelcoat? With exception to the hatch, can I just use a scraper to break away at the cracked sealant around the edge of the window on the outside or is it more complicated than that? Do I need to clean the area with something after the old sealant is removed? What would be the best way to remove the old sealant?

I've done some searching but most questions deal with some type of aluminum trim which I don't have.

 

[RbBugBitMe]

Re: newb of all newb questions

Oh and I discovered I have a Volvo Penta 275 drive unit.

 

[DBreskin]

Re: newb of all newb questions

Besides, new batteries every season or two is cheap insurance that you'll start up after a day on the water. Ask a mechanic.

New batteries every season or two seems like an unnecessary expense. If I had to get a new battery as often as every three years I'd think I had some problem with my boat's electrical system. I wouldn't trust any mechanic that recommended replacing the battery each season; I'd think he was trying to milk me.
It's reasonable to check the battery once (or more) each season.