'88 Mariner 150 hesitaton

[Skeetbum]

I bought this garage queen last may. Addressed several issues and in the end, replaced 1 switchbox,impeller and a couple seals, trigger, plugs, and carbs rebuilt, TWICE but thats another story. Fuel line, filter, pump, bulb and most of the hoses under the covers have been replaced. I have a chronic problem that I'm trying to figure out and I need y'alls help. When I am at a stop and push the throttle 100% open, or even part way, there is a hesitation of up to 3 or 4 seconds before a somewhat normal accelleration takes place. I have been told that in replacing the 1 switchbox and not the pair that they don't work together properly. I also wonder if the carbs are properly set up. Dealing with motorcycles years back, their carbs were balanced using a metering stick so that their vacuum was equal.. Do these carbs have to be set up the same way? There are times that the hesitation isn't as bad as others, but that isn't understood either.There is always some hesitation. Motor runs good once it gets past this hesitation and turns 6200 wot. New needles and seats in carbs, and second rebuilder soaked them for 2 days to get the accumulated funk out. Motor starts reliably and idles ok, but does seem to load up sometimes. when trailering and using the throttle to get it all the way on the hesitation is a real pain. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[achris]

Re: '88 Mariner 150 hesitaton

I bought this garage queen last may. Addressed several issues and in the end, replaced 1 switchbox,impeller and a couple seals, trigger, plugs, and carbs rebuilt, TWICE but thats another story. Fuel line, filter, pump, bulb and most of the hoses under the covers have been replaced. I have a chronic problem that I'm trying to figure out and I need y'alls help. When I am at a stop and push the throttle 100% open, or even part way, there is a hesitation of up to 3 or 4 seconds before a somewhat normal accelleration takes place. I have been told that in replacing the 1 switchbox and not the pair that they don't work together properly.

Total BS! They are not 'paired for life'. If one is faulty and you replace it, you have 2 good packs.

I also wonder if the carbs are properly set up. Dealing with motorcycles years back, their carbs were balanced using a metering stick so that their vacuum was equal.. Do these carbs have to be set up the same way?

No. Just set the float heights right and make sure they are clean and they should be good to go.

There are times that the hesitation isn't as bad as others, but that isn't understood either.There is always some hesitation. Motor runs good once it gets past this hesitation and turns 6200 wot. New needles and seats in carbs, and second rebuilder soaked them for 2 days to get the accumulated funk out. Motor starts reliably and idles ok, but does seem to load up sometimes. when trailering and using the throttle to get it all the way on the hesitation is a real pain. Any help would be appreciated.

Firstly I would replace the fuel pump diaphragms. Probably won't fix the problem, but it's good to have that out of the way (and it's easy to do).

Next I would get a vacuum gauge and put it on the fuel line (at the fuel pump) and make sure the engine is not trying to pull the fuel against too much resistance (no more than 2" of vacuum).

Chris.......

 

[j_martin]

Re: '88 Mariner 150 hesitaton

Yer pretty close. If you get the factory maintenance manual and do the setup on the linkage and timing, you will probably fix it. It ain't a motorcycle, and stock setup is pretty fat and safe. (and simple)

On the carbs, clean and float setting are critical. Also, don't try to service them without a gasket kit. There's a couple of gaskets that don't take kindly to re-use and inject weird problems if they fail.

If after the link-n-sync, it still bogs a bit on takeoff, you can delay the carb opening slightly, and it'll probably help.

It ain't a trolling motor. If you expect it to idle in gear for an hour, you'd better get something else, or install a kicker.

hope it helps.
John

 

[sschefer]

Re: '88 Mariner 150 hesitaton

The cause of switchbox failure is often not the component itself.There is usually some contributor in the mix. This is why manufacturers like CDI strongly recommend that you replace them as a pair. What they fail to tell you is what I just did.

Before you even order a switchbox, make sure everything else in the ignition circuit is functioning correctly. This inlcudes the advance module if you have one. Be sure to check all the wiring to ensure it is in good condition too.

Regarding using a Manometer to sync carbs. You can do it if you want. I prefer to read spark plugs, I think it's more useful on these motors.

Regarding the bog. This could simply be a link/sync issue. Make sure your initial timing is correct so that your engine is idling at around 850 on the hose. That should give you about 650-700 while in gear, in the water. Check the gap at the throttle cam. I set mine initially at .010 and then recheck it after establishing the correct idle and throttle cable backlash.

 

[Skeetbum]

Re: '88 Mariner 150 hesitaton

Thanks for all the quick response. Fuel pump kit already done, forgot to mention it. I don't idle longer than to get my act together and let things warm and go. I don't troll with this motor so the times for it to load up are much shorter than you might think. I believe I'll buy a gasket kit and check float height and deal with the link/synch thing and see how that works out. Motor runs too good to be in real trouble. Any one place or manual better than the other? I don't want to buy a pos that doesn't have the info or pay thru the nose. Thanks again for all of the help from all of you. The Bum

 

[achris]

Re: '88 Mariner 150 hesitaton

Three manuals worth recommending... OEM, OEM or OEM... Anything else is rubbish.

 

[sschefer]

Re: '88 Mariner 150 hesitaton

Three manuals worth recommending... OEM, OEM or OEM... Anything else is rubbish.

Truly gospel... Listen well!...