how to test blower?

[NYBo]

Re: how to test blower?

If you have adequate clearance behind the side panel, I don't see why not, unless it's a spot you would be constantly brushing against. You don't want to be accidentally flipping switches.

BTW, I'm betting that cigarette lighter outlet doesn't work- there doesn't appear to be a negative connection.

 

[imraan47]

Re: how to test blower?

If you have adequate clearance behind the side panel, I don't see why not, unless it's a spot you would be constantly brushing against. You don't want to be accidentally flipping switches.

BTW, I'm betting that cigarette lighter outlet doesn't work- there doesn't appear to be a negative connection.

Of course it doesn't. When i got the boat non of the switches worked thus those silly looking wires. I pulled all the gauges out to take a closer look and its a can of worms at this point.
I need to wire everything from scratch pretty much as far as my switches to power the nav/anchor lights, bilge, blower and a bow light that i have also installed.
the guages worked just fine except on blue wire came off place and based on color coding in manuals, it goes to my oil guage. as i pulled the wired off the guages to get the dash pannel out, i put the wires back on the guages temporarly back in place so nothing gets mixed up. i need to draw up a diagram and post it on here.

 

[imraan47]

Re: how to test blower?

ok i sketched up something quick...

 

[underwurlde]

Re: how to test blower?

Can't see anything wrong with that.

I will cook up a diagram for you later as to how I would do this. However wiring point to point is not the end all & be all of wiring: You HAVE to consider what current each device is taking & wire to that rating and ALL wired itmes in that path (wires, terminals, switches, fuese, crimps etc).

e.g. if a light demands 10Amps (I doubt it, but who knows) then the wire from Bat(+) will be 15A rated. The Fuse will be (guessing) 13A rated, the switch will be capable of SWITCHING 10A and the return wire to Bat(-) will be 15A rated. *(Current INTO a node = current OUT of a node).

Note also all your devices will take some current. They could all be on at the same time, so add up ALL currents to find a suitable bus-bar & supply rating. *(Sum of all currents INTO a node = sum of all currents OUT of a node).

* Kirchoff anyone?

Wiring a boat LOOKs simple but there is a lot of nounce to know. You'll need all the wires, at the correct ratings, the fuses, kill switches, switches at the correct ratings, bus-bars, fuse boxes, heat shrink, crimps & crimping tools.

Bottom line - from your responses and to echo what others are suggesting I would have to go along with also suggesting that you need some help there. Otherwise it will be frustrating - you've an uphill task with the steep learning curve and possibly none of the right tools & equipement, so it's only going to be an utter pain in the *** for you to do!

Good luck though & we're here to help.

Andy

 

[imraan47]

Re: how to test blower?

Thanks for the response...great help. I have most of the tools to work with. Only thing i need to get are the fuse's, bus bar, heat shrink, crimps.
The switch i am using can go up to 15Amps on DC.

If anyone can get the time to device a diagram that will help alot.
They way i did this diagram is referring to the instruction manual of a distribution panel that you can buy...so basically i am making on of my own but placing the fuses under the dash and my switches on my dash panel. So based on that i came up with the above diagram

 

[underwurlde]

Re: how to test blower?

of course you've got the wrong switches connected to the wrong items... but you knew that, didn't you!

I'll hopefully get a diagram done Monday / Tuesday if that's OK. I'll try to draw it point to point and as bundled looms so you can see exactly how to lay everything out so it won't end up being a poxy rat's nest.

Wait then perhaps for peer review before implementing - who knows, I could be spouting utter rubbish (not unknown).

In the meantime, do you have pictures of the fuse-box / bus-bars / anthing else you propose to use?

Re: Swiches. 15A is good and meaty, but what environment, sea or fresh water. Regardless really (but more important for salt environs) the switches should ideally be waterproof / sealed / weather proof etc. Otherwise they won't last a year.

Cheers.

Andy

 

[imraan47]

Re: how to test blower?

of course you've got the wrong switches connected to the wrong items... but you knew that, didn't you!

I'll hopefully get a diagram done Monday / Tuesday if that's OK. I'll try to draw it point to point and as bundled looms so you can see exactly how to lay everything out so it won't end up being a poxy rat's nest.

Wait then perhaps for peer review before implementing - who knows, I could be spouting utter rubbish (not unknown).

In the meantime, do you have pictures of the fuse-box / bus-bars / anthing else you propose to use?

Re: Swiches. 15A is good and meaty, but what environment, sea or fresh water. Regardless really (but more important for salt environs) the switches should ideally be waterproof / sealed / weather proof etc. Otherwise they won't last a year.

Cheers.

Andy

Ahh yea i didnt really pay attention to what switch to what device in the diagram..but of course i wont do that mistake.
I have to go to west marine and pic the fuse-box out and the bus bars too. Can you let me know which one i should be getting interms of what amps for bus bars and also the amps for fuse's. i figure 13-15amp fuses will do for everything right?

 

[underwurlde]

Re: how to test blower?

To help answer that question, list ALL the kit you wish to control along with any current or wattage ratings marked on them. It's not really good enough to just scatter 15A fuses everywhere as this will exceed most of the wire & equipment ratings. KNOW what they are, don't guess!

Cheers,

Andy

 

[Bwana Don]

Re: how to test blower?

I've got a similar mess but my boat doesn't even have a fuseblock. Not a single fuse anywhere and five wires coming directly from the battery!

Get some electrical books, you can get them cheap (used) at half.com. I bought two great reference books for $20.00 including shipping.

Wow, I looked at the pictures again and you may be worse off than me. Well hang in there and good luck.

 

[Greebo]

Re: how to test blower?

Can I just reinforce that you must replace the blower and hoses. I am aware of 3 boats in South Australia that have burnt to the waterline this season after fuel in the bilges ignited. Here in SA we have many inboard boats that don't comply with your strict Coastguard standards. I am not aware of any US imported boat that was fitted with blowers igniting.
Remember, its a long way to swim if something goes wrong.
Fix the blower, fix the wiring and enjoy.

 

[imraan47]

Re: how to test blower?

To help answer that question, list ALL the kit you wish to control along with any current or wattage ratings marked on them. It's not really good enough to just scatter 15A fuses everywhere as this will exceed most of the wire & equipment ratings. KNOW what they are, don't guess!

Cheers,

Andy

I have no clue because the lights, blower came with the boat so how do i look for their watts or current?

 

[imraan47]

Re: how to test blower?

this is pretty much what i copied in my diagram.
source: bluesea distribution panel

 

[imraan47]

Re: how to test blower?

Ok so i just got this busbar...let me know if this is the right one.
rated as 150Amps DC

http://bluesea.com/category/9/35/productline/187

 

[smokeonthewater]

Re: how to test blower?

well it wouldn't have been my first chioce but will work fine.... I would have gotten one with integral fuses and spade terminals for convenience but again it will be fine.... really there is no such thing as "the right one" Instaed it is about designing a working system with suitable components to fit the needs and wants of the customer (you) lol.... you will either need to add an inline fuse block or seperate inline fuse holders... the latter can either be strung along in the wiring (hard to find and hard to access) or they can be panel mount.

 

[imraan47]

Re: how to test blower?

planning to reuse this too since its in good condition.

also i want the cig lighter working so i need to figure out how to connect that properly

 

[smokeonthewater]

Re: how to test blower?

as far as hooking it up right you need a ground wire on the outer shell.... I would get a new marine lighter plug made of stainless..... rust makes for a crappy day when you need to plug something in to it

 

[underwurlde]

Re: how to test blower?

Basis of how I'd wire things:

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l40/underwurlde666/Boat Stuff/Imran1.gif

Cig lighter will have it's own fuse from positive bus-bar to the middle terminal and outer shell to negative bus bar. Get a new one if I were you as suggested!

A 150A bus bar will be more than adequate.

Current / wattage ratings - look on bulb casings, device casings for any markings. Can also connect an amp meter in series and test that way and base fuse rating on a current 25% (ish) higher.

Cheers,

Andy

 

[smokeonthewater]

Re: how to test blower?

you think a 30 amp fuse will handle the starter?..... no way.... ditch the fuse between the batt and the batt switch and move the 30 to where you have the 10.... otherwise looks fine

 

[imraan47]

Re: how to test blower?

Andy,
Thank you so much. Your drawing is excellent and i even understand it really well. This should be a sticky imo!
By isolator you mean battery switch right?
Also what do the 30amp/10amp fuses look like that are at the battery?

 

[underwurlde]

Re: how to test blower?

@smokeonthewater

you think a 30 amp fuse will handle the starter?

Nope!!! - You're spot on of course though!

Should've explained that this 30A fuse is merely 'a large fuse' & one should be able to see (as you have rightly spotted) that it should be capable of carrying the engine cranking current - I have mentioned above 'kirchoff's current laws and that one should'nt just go lashing something up without considering the current ratings FIRST! This is FUNDAMENTALLY critical to ANY wiring (ANYWHERE). So there, can't say I didn't warn of this .

It's an 'oo gorr blimey fuse' really - the last in the chain of safety features. So, OK, make it 100A then (or what ever, after all I don't know what the engine is!) as long as it is large enough NOT to go pop when the engine is turned but smaller than the amp rating of the thick wires from battery -> Large fuse -> engine. It should be as close to the battery as possible with the bolts done up so tightly you think you're gunna break something.

Personally, I'd rather have it there than not - any main battery cabling is then completely fuse protected below its break-out current. Any low current items are then fused as well - this fuse (10A as drawn) can be taken from the either side of the main fuse (but not the battery terminal itself as I'd consider this messy / awkward).

@imraan47

By isolator you mean battery switch right?

Yep - make sure switch is capabale of taking the sum of ALL currents (including the engine craking current most importantly of all).

@imraan47

Also what do the 30amp/10amp fuses look like that are at the battery?

Big. You've yet to buy them of course.