225 Yamaha starting problem

farmer43

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I have 1997 twin 225 hp Yamaha 2 stroke motors. with low hours which I bought new. They are EFI. I am having a problem with the Port Engine. It starts and idles as long as I hold the switch on - when I let go of the swith the motor dies. Could it be the ignition switch or the kill switch? It did this two years ago and I replaced the wiring harness but that didn't make any difference. A month or so later, it started working again but now it is doing the same thing. The engine oil tank stays full, the engine is in a vertical position and I have switched oil tank assembly from one engine to the other which didn't make any difference. Would appreciate any input or suggestions.
 

99yam40

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Re: 225 Yamaha starting problem

What do you mean by " It starts and idles as long as I hold the switch on - when I let go of the switch the motor dies"?

Are you having to hold the switch to the start position to make it run?

Sounds like the switch is bad.
 

farmer43

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Re: 225 Yamaha starting problem

Yes I am having to hold the ignition switch in the start position. Is there a way to check the switch wiring?
 

99yam40

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Re: 225 Yamaha starting problem

use a meter to check the switch on the back terminals where the wires connect.
Make a drawing of how they are hooked up before disconnecting any wires, and then check for continuity between the different terminals.
since you have 2 you can compare the readings between them, or look in your manual and see what it says as to what wires do what.
when you turn the switch to the off position it should ground the kill wire, and it should be ungrounded when in on and start position.
 

rodbolt

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Re: 225 Yamaha starting problem

could also be a bad fuel pump resistor or a failing main relay or a failing keyswitch.
or the wiring to the fuel pump resistor is corroded.
do you have the factory service manual?
 

99yam40

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Re: 225 Yamaha starting problem

could also be a bad fuel pump resistor or a failing main relay or a failing keyswitch.
or the wiring to the fuel pump resistor is corroded.
do you have the factory service manual?


That is why Rodbolt and the other Yamaha tecs get the big bucks.
They know all about these motors and systems.
They are a lot more complicated than the old premix models
 

rodbolt

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Re: 225 Yamaha starting problem

nah they aint.
they still suck squeeze bang and blow.
after that you simply have to know how the systems aide in lighting the fire.
not near as complex as a C.I.W.S. system.
 

farmer43

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Re: 225 Yamaha starting problem

Rod bolt

I don't have the factory service manual but I did buy the service manual from the dealer. They sold me the 1996 because they didn't have the 1997 at the time. It basically just has schematic drawing no pictures like a factory service manual.Can you e-mail me the pages describing what you believe it might be?
 

rodbolt

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Re: 225 Yamaha starting problem

the 96 and 97 models were completly different on ign systems and fuel delivery.
if you can post a full model number.
you will need a factory service manual,some test equipment and if possible the tune up spec guide.
a fuel rail test guage can usually be rented from an auto parts store.
at key on power the high presure pump runs about 3 seconds, at cranking the brown wire feeds the ECU a cranking signal and the ECU turns the pump on bypassing the pump resistor,it also keeps the main relay on suppling power to the pump and all other yellow\red or red\yellow wires.
once the key switch is released the pump runs via the red wire power and the blue wire ground,ground path is controled by the ECU.
the resistor is mounted at the top of the air box and has a brown and blue wire.
resistor is bypassed by the ECU above about 1200 RPM.
had one once that the pump was failing and drawing excessive current. same basic symptoms.
test pump current draw with an ampmeter,should be around 4 amps at idle and about 6 at WOT.
with the key on test the pump red wire for 12V between the wire and ground.
test the oil transfer pump brown wire as well,this will tell if its a switch failure or something on the engine.
 

farmer43

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Re: 225 Yamaha starting problem

model number is L225 txrv. I did buy the Seloc manual 1706 for 1992-98 and it does have pictures but I am not sure which page applies to this. This motor has an electric fuel pump and a manual bulb. Thanks for your help.
 

rodbolt

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Re: 225 Yamaha starting problem

the L225TXRV is an EFI motor .
the L indicates its a left hand unit,the X indicates its a 25 inch shaft and the V indicates its a 1997.
the X for 97 also indicates its an OX66 EFI motor displacing 3.1Liters.
on the motor should be 3 vacum operated lift pumps, the only electric pump is inside a vapor seperator tank mounted on the port side of the crankcase.
if it was an L225TLRV it would be a 2.6L carbed engine.
thats why model numbers can be a bit important.
both are covered in that seloc manual so be careful it can be confusing.
 

MeadowsD

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Re: 225 Yamaha starting problem

I have a 225 with the same issue, I had a new key switch installed, an I still have the same issue?? This engine is carbuerated, with the oil injection removed. What should I look for now
 

rodbolt

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Re: 225 Yamaha starting problem

meadowsd
you simply cannot have the same problem as your carburated motor uses a totally different fuel and ign system.
start a new thread and include the full model number.
 

MeadowsD

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Re: 225 Yamaha starting problem

The model # is SPCL K, 6G7 L 300827. I replaced the key switch with a universal key switch, an the problem still remained. I then was told by a Yamaha Tech that a universal switch wouldnt work, that it had to be a Yamaha key switch, so I replaced the universal switch with a factory switch, an the problem still remains. As soon as you let off the key in the start position it will die. This engine is equipped with Micro Computer Ignition. I have limited experience with Yamaha, I am a Stern Drive Technician with a Dealer on Lake Cumberland. I would appreciate any effort or answers you could share. Thanks
 

rodbolt

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Re: 225 Yamaha starting problem

now we get really really old.
start a new thread on the special K model and ill have a look.
but most likly you have lost key on power to the micro computer.
look just below the stbd head and there should be 2 round connectors labled a and b.
switch them and retest.
this will bypass the ECU and run directly off the pulser coils.
timing will be fixed and top speed cannot be reached and idle speed will be higher than normal.
to test voltage at key on to the ECU unplug it and use a test lamp on the yellow wire.
 
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