Powerpack? Spark then no spark

[Time2Fly1]

I have a 1985 Evinrude model e70elcrd

Me and my friend went to fire the engine and had spark on on cylinder then it stopped. Then on another cylinder then it worked. We figured we just moved some wires around and got lucky. Now we went to start it and no spark at all. We have already replaced the stator and the flywheel so i'm looking at the powerpack. I never thought it would be the powerpack though due to the new condition it is in but I guess looks might not matter here. I have no dva right now to test. I went to start the boat today no problem fired right up and ran for 10 min then went to the dock where I put it in reverse and it died (needs to be adjusted) but after on trailer no spark again? Is it a sure fire bet that the powerpack needs to be replaced?

 

[Time2Fly1]

Re: Powerpack? Spark then no spark

Can a powerpack work one minute then not work another is what i'm wondering?

 

[ezeke]

Re: Powerpack? Spark then no spark

The kill wire running to the powerpack is black with a yellow stripe. If it has a short or if there is a problem with the ignition switch or emergency lanyard, that will cause the condition that you describe.

You can disconnect the wire at the powerpack to troubleshoot, but be prepared to choke the engine or disconnect the fuel line to stop it if it starts.

Here's a link to a guide with some troubleshooting information for your powerpack: http://cdielectronics.com/InstallSheet/113-2556.pdf

BTW, your model number is from 1984.

 

[Vic.S]

Re: Powerpack? Spark then no spark

Can a powerpack work one minute then not work another is what i'm wondering?

I have had one fail. Working fine then just stopped dead. Nothing .. dead as the proverbial dodo.

It was only a few weeks beyond its 1 year warranty so not only looked new but had only run for a few hours.

In your case I would be checking all the wiring for breaks or loose connections or even shorts.

It could be an intermittent fault with the PP but from what you say I'd bet the fault is else where.

You have replaced the stator and flywheel. What was wrong with them. esp the flywheel what was wrong with that

 

[Time2Fly1]

Re: Powerpack? Spark then no spark

I actually just replaced the ignition switch and had a switch i rigged into the silioid to start it with the wiring harness off. It has the same problem with it jumped out and with the igition switch.
This leads me to beleive the switch is hooked up correctly. Evertything seems to work just fine with the swith.
I don't think there is anything else it could be being everything else has been replaced.
Thanks for the quick feedback

 

[Time2Fly1]

Re: Powerpack? Spark then no spark

As far as a bad connection my friend went ahead without me one day and butt spliced every connection on igition system. Making it hard for me to work with but its to late now.

 

[cooldog4]

Re: Powerpack? Spark then no spark

You're not alone. I have a 1990 120 VRO V4 that is doing the same exact thing. Fire one day and dead the next. When it fires it runs like new. I have replaced the power pack, the stator, the timer base, and the regulator. All which have solved nothing. Same problem- just wasted lots of money. About ready to sell the motor as scrap.

 

[The_Kid]

Re: Powerpack? Spark then no spark

You're not alone. I have a 1990 120 VRO V4 that is doing the same exact thing. Fire one day and dead the next. When it fires it runs like new. I have replaced the power pack, the stator, the timer base, and the regulator. All which have solved nothing. Same problem- just wasted lots of money. About ready to sell the motor as scrap.

Check the connector for the main electrical harness. My 1990 88spl was giving me the same problem. Most of the pins in the connector had some corrosion on them. Cleaned them up and used some dielectric grease and everything is working OK now.

 

[the machinist]

Re: Powerpack? Spark then no spark

I also have had electrical problems with my 1980 70 hp. I had an electrical failure & took it to a shop who replaced the stator. It ran OK for about a dozen trips, then started to miss on #1 when it was cold. After a while it would fire off & do OK, but if I shut it down & it cooled off, then had the same problem again.

Over a period of 2 years of pulling my hair, I found the #1 spark plug was seeping oil, (not tight) checked the connector pins, swapped coils, etc, etc. I found a bad ground under #1 coil, thought I had it. Then it would start & run OK cold, but failed when hot. I would find something, fix that & it may be OK for the next trip, only to revert back later. What I finally found one evening trying to get it going for the next day was spark jumping from the power pack metal gtommet to the lower mounting bolt.

What had apparently happened was that when the mechanic in trying to find my initial problem, took the coils & power pack off to test & never retightened them.

I bought a new powerpack & everything runs fine now.

What I concluded was that with a bad (intermittant) ground at the powerpack that somehow it shorted out & ruined the powerpack internally but only to the #1 coil.

Needless to say I do my own work now.

 

[Time2Fly1]

Re: Powerpack? Spark then no spark

Well I went out and bought the new powerpack and made sure it had a good ground.... it does. Same f%#W@ing problem. Only fires on the bottom cylinder. Someone had mentioned at sater plate? I have found out nothing about this. I'm getting tired of this problem and am about to sink the damn thing and make a nice reef out of it. I don't know what to do from here. Thanks for all the help hopefully theres still other things for me to try

 

[ezeke]

Re: Powerpack? Spark then no spark

Are you testing for spark with all of the spark plugs out and grounded?

Are you sure that you are turning the engine at 300 RPM required for the ignition to fire properly?

Have you disconnected and cleaned all of the engine ground connections?

What are the results of your DVA tests?

 

[bktheking]

Re: Powerpack? Spark then no spark

Duplicate post

 

[bktheking]

Re: Powerpack? Spark then no spark

Could be timer base or wiring issue. You need to troubleshoot things with the correct tools (DVA Adapter is a must) , it saves you lots of money. Go to the CDI electronics website and look up the troubleshooting PDF section on your motor, do the tests and replace what needs replacing. I noticed you said your friend did a butcher job on the wiring harness, was this to fix something or to troubleshoot this issue?

Something tells me it's wiring. It ran fine for 10 minutes and then you backed it into the lake, enough to move a wire causing a short or losing a ground connection. Move the wires as you crank, it sounds stupid but it works in this case where a meter doesn't, found many a problem moving wires while cranking. Another good test is to go through the entire wiring harness with a meter checking continuity with the beep option, wires break inside of the insulation and they look fine, the wires move and make contact then move and lose contact, thus losing spark.

 

[bonitasprings]

Re: Powerpack? Spark then no spark

(DVA Adapter is a must)

bktheking...where do you get on of these adapters? Does it go on a standard multimeter?

What's a good way to clean a pigtail connection? (that main beg red one)

I've got the same kind of problem as these guys....Works one day and then down the next.

 

[bktheking]

Re: Powerpack? Spark then no spark

(DVA Adapter is a must)

bktheking...where do you get on of these adapters? Does it go on a standard multimeter?

What's a good way to clean a pigtail connection? (that main beg red one)

I've got the same kind of problem as these guys....Works one day and then down the next.

Fluke and other electronics companies make them. Almost all DVA's will work with any meter, i've seen one or 2 that have proprietary DVA's. I went to my local electronics shop and bought the components to make my own, google how to make a DVA or direct voltage adapter, a cap , resistor and diode, pretty simple circuit. They sell cheap DV meters and sell them on fleabay for $75.00+. I'd just use a spray degreaser. I guess if it was that bad I cut the connectors and fab my own.