Converting Rollers to bunks

[pparvin]

I have an 86 shorelander adjustable roller trailer under my 4Winns 170 Horizon and hate it, How hard or easy to convert it to bunks?

 

[Blujay96]

Re: Converting Rollers to bunks

Shouldn't be bad at all. If the rollers bolt on just take them off and install some bunks.

 

[pparvin]

Re: Converting Rollers to bunks

Thanx, I just have a heck of a time getting this thing loaded straight on the trailer and hoped the bunks would be easier.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: Converting Rollers to bunks

Take the roller assemblies off, get your self a couple pairs of these http://www.iboats.com/Adjustable-Bo...05353634--**********.042077094--view_id.40421 couple 2x4's and some carpet and you're set. I just replaced the roller bunks on my trailer.

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w200/ezmobee/New Boat/DSCF2352.jpg

 

[pparvin]

Re: Converting Rollers to bunks

Thanks EZ, good info and pics, just have to put the boat in a slip for a day or so, also do I need to put center rollers on it? I currently dont have them.

 

[Bondo]

Re: Converting Rollers to bunks

Ayuh,... Center rollers are good for keeping the hull from hitting a crossmember while loading or launching....
If it's Not gonna hit, you don't need 'em...

 

[ezmobee]

Re: Converting Rollers to bunks

Right. They are more for centering. Your trailer should be set up so that not much weight is on those keel rollers. The bunks should hold the weight. When I got the boat up on mine I was prepared to do some adjustments to the bunk height but it ended up being perfect. My keel is a little under half an inch above the center of the rollers. However, like Bond-O said, I'd be concerned, with only 2 bunks and no center rollers, about the boat getting crooked on the ramp and hitting the crossmembers. I think I'd want to have either center rollers or 2 additional bunks located closer to the keel.

 

[pparvin]

Re: Converting Rollers to bunks

Thanks for the insight, this is one of those projects that will happen as time and money allows. Right now I have bigger issues to handle as seen in my other thread. But I will keep posted as to what I do.

 

[JimS123]

Re: Converting Rollers to bunks

You didn't say what type of rollers you have. Since you don't have keel rollers I'd guess that you have some type of articulating wobble rollers like on an EZLoader Trailer. If that's the case then you have the easiest and best type of trailer as far as laubching and retreiving is concerned. I see it every day at the ramp. If you boat is crooked you are backing the trailer in too far. If your feet get wet when you stand at the winch, you backed in too far.

If you still insist on dunking the trailer for whatever reason, maybe adding a simple pair of side guide-ons is your simplest and cheapest solution.

If you want to do a setup like the pic showed above by EZ, then by all means you DO need keel rollers. The setup (number, size and type) looks perfect. The V-type rollers are ideal in that the keel tends to stay centered when you winch the boat up on the trailer. Go one step further and make the transom roller a "self-centering type". But even that setup will be troublesome if you back up too far.

Fourty five years ago when I got my first boat I had an "expert" help me set up the trailer. First, line up the keel rollers in a straight line (assuming the keel is straight - if its not then you have yet another set of problems).

Second, put the boat on the rollers and block it up so its level. Move the boat fore and aft so that the transom roller is within 1 or 2 inches from the transom. Adjust the Winch stand to the proper position.

Third, position the 2 side bunks so they barely touch the hull, and mark the positions. Then, raise each bunk bracket up with a jack maybe 1/4" so they stay tight against the hull. You want the boat to trail down the highway without rocking, but you most definately want MOST of the weight on the keel. The keel needs maximum support.

Now the boat is properly positioned on the trailer frame and properly supported to keep the hull true and straight. If the tongue weight is off, move the axle not the boat.

I have set up a dozen boats like this over the years and currently own 4 of varying size that all work quite well. My largest rig is a 20 footer that was set up by me in 1984. The only difference is that my side bunks have rollers. She glides off with one finger and retreives just as easy.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: Converting Rollers to bunks

You want the boat to trail down the highway without rocking, but you most definitely want MOST of the weight on the keel. The keel needs maximum support.

This is incorrect. You want the weight of the boat spread out between the 2 (or more) bunks. Not centered on the keel.

 

[JimS123]

Re: Converting Rollers to bunks

This is incorrect. You want the weight of the boat spread out between the 2 (or more) bunks. Not centered on the keel.

I respectfully disagree. If you do it your way the boat will be a bear to load and launch and it will be tough to keep it centered. The rollers will basically serve no purpose.

Obviously, there is a difference of opinion here and without credible documented evidence, neither of us will be swayed in our opinion. And when I say "credible" I don't mean info on internet forums.

I got into trailer boating 45 years ago when I built a wooden boat and assembled a kit trailer. I bought a motor from an old timer that had been in business selling and servicing boats since the 1940's. The instruction with the trailer and the old guy's recommendations are what I described in my post above.

I googled how to adjust boat trailer rollers and got 3 hits that backed me up. Here is a link to one of them:

http://www.thule-trailer.com/advice-a-guidance/boat-trailers

The newer "EZLoader" trailers are an exception to this rule. They just have so many wobble rollers that each roller carries only a light weight. If set up properly each roller can be turned by hand. Thus, it lightly cradles the whole hull all over.

Even more important than the keel is supporting the engine. Let the transom hang a couple feet over the last roller or side bunks and you'e asking for trouble.

I have seen many a boat that got a hook or roller in the hull due to improper trailer adjustment. A hook will cause porpoising so badly that you might not be able to get above half speed.

When I have nothing to do or need a little exercise I like to ride my bike to the launch ramp to watch people in action. Thats's better than a Leno and Conan comedy show....LOL. I swear, fully 90% of the people don't know how to launch a boat. I do mine single handedly without working up a sweat or getting my feet wet.

 

[slasmith1]

Re: Converting Rollers to bunks

I have had both roller and bunk trailers and have found that it is more about knowing how to launch and load then what type of trailer you have. Everyone I have known who wanted to switch from one type to the other needed practice properly launching and loading not a trailer conversion.

 

[smokeonthewater]

Re: Converting Rollers to bunks

I agree^^^
I'd say adjusting trailer and adjusting the operator of the boat are generally better than converting the trailer

It's amazing how much easier it is to loat a boat when you look down the centerline to line up with the trailer also on a small boat just sliding yer keester to the center will level it and make it go on the trailer better

 

[pparvin]

Re: Converting Rollers to bunks

:redface:OK, I didnt mean to start an argument, I do have articulating rollers, 4 sets right under the engine compartment. and the transom does not hang over the rear. I have only launched this boat twice and each time couldnt get it lined up as square as I wanted it so maybe I need to just load it and see if I can get used to it. Not to mention how deep in the water to put the trailer.

 

[smokeonthewater]

Re: Converting Rollers to bunks

yeah a little practice with the setup may help .... You may be backing in too far... I have had very good luck with my ez loader ... I set it so that the boat never floats off of the rollers.... When I pull on the bow lifts slightly as soon as I am on the first bunk of rollers with the flat part of the bottom .... It is a v hull... by flat I mean behind the upward curved area where the keel becomes the bow....ya know?

Get out a tape measure and check to see if your roller bunks are adjusted the same on both sides.... also if your trailer has any keel rollers swap to self centering.... they 'totally rock'

 

[Knightgang]

Re: Converting Rollers to bunks

A couple of comments here...

1. Why is it when someone is considering a roller to bunk conversion, they are always looking to put down 2x4 or 2x6 as bunks... Why not do the 4x8, 4x10, etc. beams like you find on new aluminum trailer setups...

I ask this because I have a Magic Tilt trailer that has the beams. It is very easy to load, it self centers, only has a roller on the rear crossmember and the boat never touches it... In my opinion, this is the best trailer setup for most v-hull boats...

2. I also have to disagree with JimS. THe boat does not have to have keel support... You ask for references to back up the comment, Look in most boat yards. and I do not mean small watercraft, look at the 30+ footers that the marinas pull out the the water and store on stands for the winter... I bet you will find that 90% have no keel support, but have 4 or more stands under the hull to spread the weight/pressure of the boat...

In my area (not sure if it is due to popularity) but most of the trailered boats in my area are on trailers as I described above, Beam Bunk only, no rollers... easy to load, low maint trailers, light and easy to tow...

I am not saying that one setup is right/wrong or better/worse than another... Just wondering why the beam bunks are not considered in a conversion. Practice with any trailer makes loading easier, but the setup can make a huge difference...

 

[JimS123]

Re: Converting Rollers to bunks

:redface:OK, I didnt mean to start an argument, I do have articulating rollers, 4 sets right under the engine compartment. and the transom does not hang over the rear. I have only launched this boat twice and each time couldnt get it lined up as square as I wanted it so maybe I need to just load it and see if I can get used to it. Not to mention how deep in the water to put the trailer.

Don't worry...no arguments...everybody is being civil. I just want to help out a fellow boater do what I know is the right thing. I have literally shown hundreds of boaters at the ramps. After all, if they get in easier I'm in the water quicker too!

Like others have said, its all in knowing how. If I could show you I bet you would think your trailer is the easiest one around.

Try backing in until the water is up to the middle of the wheels and/or the stern most rollers are just under water. You want to winch the boat on the trailer not float it on. When its about half way up it should be "firm" on the trailer, not bobbing any more. If you have a rope on the winch replace it with a nylon strap. The length needs to reach about 3 fet past the end of the trailer.

At worst, buy a set of guide ons. Look at these:

http://www.iboats.com/Boat-Loading-...42001014--**********.173133483--view_id.40433

I like the roller type better because they slide along the hull better. I put these on the EZLoader under my Bass boat just because I launch in an open river setting where I often get 1 or 2 foot waves pounding me on retreival. Adjust them up tight to within a 1/4" of the hull and I guarantee the boat will be centered every time.

Good luck and keep us posted.

 

[JimS123]

Re: Converting Rollers to bunks

A couple of comments here...

2. I also have to disagree with JimS. THe boat does not have to have keel support... You ask for references to back up the comment, Look in most boat yards. and I do not mean small watercraft, look at the 30+ footers that the marinas pull out the the water and store on stands for the winter... I bet you will find that 90% have no keel support, but have 4 or more stands under the hull to spread the weight/pressure of the boat...

In my area (not sure if it is due to popularity) but most of the trailered boats in my area are on trailers as I described above, Beam Bunk only, no rollers... easy to load, low maint trailers, light and easy to tow...

You are quite correct about large crafts in marinas. But there are a few differences there. First the hulls are constructed with a lot more beef that a 19 foor trailerboat. Secondly, as you said, they have many stands to distribute the weight. Like I mentioned, EZLoaders with wobble rollers gently cradle the whole hull. Finally, this is static storage, not bouncing around on the highway.

A trailer boat sitting on 4 sets of carpeted bunks is certainly supported adequately. But, the theme of this thread was directed at launching and retreival problems. If you have a deepwater ramp that is steep, OK. If you have a shallow ramp you will have problems. The trailer that the original poster has should be good to go anywhere.

My son has a 23 foot cruiser with an Eagle 4-bunk trailer. First of all, he never launches alone and secondly, his local ramp is exceptionally deep. He saved considerable cash by opting for the bunk trailer. He can't use my ramp becasue its too shallow, and he always needs a helper.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: Converting Rollers to bunks

First the hulls are constructed with a lot more beef that a 19 foor trailerboat.

The problem is that you recommended concentrating most of the weight of this not-so-beefy trailer boat on 3-4 points on the keel, which makes no sense.

 

[JimS123]

Re: Converting Rollers to bunks

The problem is that you recommended concentrating most of the weight of this not-so-beefy trailer boat on 3-4 points on the keel, which makes no sense.

I currently own a 1952 wood Lyman OB sitting on its original trailer. When I bought the boat to restore I verified that the hull was straight and the boat was properly sitting on its 3 keel rollers. Many of the boats of that era have hogged hulls from improper storage.

Our "family" boat is a one-owner 1984 Stingray I/O, also on its original TeeNee. Ditto the setup, and the hull is still like new. She sits on 4 keel rollers.

My everyday boat is a 1975 aluminum Sea Nymph bass boat. I bought that boat new and put her on a 1968 Gator, also with only 3 keel rollers. She leaks a little bit now at some of the rivets, but that didn't start till I put that new (slightly overpowered) engine on her a few years ago...LOL. The hull is still straight though.

This has been a nice debate. I'll stick with my procedures since they work for me.