1979 100 hp chrysler ignition switch wiring

[jaybirddog11]

Motor- 1007H9A (1979 100 hp chrysler)
Hello, I am having trouble with consistent performance. Last weekend it seemed to run fine but when I got to the honey hole it would not start and needed to get the "tow of shame". I initially thought it may be my preamp or CD unit but thought I should start troubleshooting all wiring since I have been having trouble with consistency. I started with the magnapower circuit test as outlined in the CLYMER manual and could not get past the first step. That is to "turn the ignition switch on and connect a 12V test lamp between the terminal block blue wire terminal and a good engine ground. If the test lamp does not light, the problem is between the terminal block and the ignition switch. Mine does not light up. I have my boat wired as instructed in the book I think?? My switch is fairly new.
Yellow - S
White - M
Green - C
Red - B
Blue - I
BLANK - M
I have read other posts and saw that Blue should go to the other M terminal. I currently have it wired this way and it seems to get me past steps 1,2,3,4 and 5. Step 6 says "to move the test probe to the ignition switch B terminal. If the lamp lights, replace the switch." Well, my lamp lights up but I am confused why it should not light since that is the battery terminal. Do I need to replace my switch? Also I am afraid to try and start it the way it is currently wired. I did notice that the 'I' terminal now functions as an auxilary. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[jaybirddog11]

Re: 1979 100 hp chrysler ignition switch wiring

I tried starting with the blue wire on 'M' terminal. No luck. I switched back to blue on the 'I' terminal and got a 'cough' but nothing else. I installed an inline spark tester and I have no spark. I have had an intermittent spark for quite a while but it seems to run fine when it does start. Could it be a bad ignition switch? Maybe preamp or CD unit? A few years ago I gradually lost power while boating but everything seemed OK next time out however it has never run consistently since. If you think it is the preamp or CD unit any tips for testing would be greatly appreciated.
Any suggestions???

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: 1979 100 hp chrysler ignition switch wiring

If you have a distributor--and since you mentioned a pre-amp, you do, Then you have the switch wired correctly. White is tachometer signal and does not need to be connected to the "M" terminal--"Smatter of fact, since it gets signal from the CD box, it would be preferable to disconnect it from the "M" terminal.

NOW: A bad pre-amp is not a testable part. To diagnose one, you must replace with a known good one. That being the case, First let's check the ignition switch. The battery terminal (red) supplies power to the ignition terminal (blue) at the switch. With the switch in start or run position, 12 volts is delivered to the blue wire. This wire attaches to the blue terminal on the engine terminal board and this terminal supplies power to the pre-amp and the CD box electronic circuit. The CD box also has constant power charging the capacitors from the red terminal on the terminal board.

That is why you will always get a spark at the battery terminal if the terminals are re-connected after the engine has sat for a while--the capacitors are bled down and will recharge as soon as the battery is connected.

SO: you have a choice: Either jump red to blue at the ignition switch or at the engine terminal board, Terminal board is preferable as it is usually easier to reach. If the problem is solved, then the ignition switch or the blue wire in the cable is bad. If the problem stays, then either the pre-amp is bad OR--more likely-- the CD box is bad. Be careful-- if you leave this jumper connected: 1. the engine will not stop with the key if started and 2. the battery will be discharged if left to sit with the engine not running.

If she is "popping", you need to check the CD box. With no fuel in the carbs and all plugs removed and grounded we can test. Now with the ignition on turn the flywheel slowly by hand until it approaches top dead center. At some point close to it (TDC) the plug will fire. as you "rock" the flywheel about one degree around the point where it fires, it should fire once for each time you pass the point. IF the plug fires constantly at the point, the gate transistor inside the CD box is shorted and the box must be replaced.

If the plug only fires intermittently when you pass the firing point, the capacitor is most likely shorted and the CD box must be replaced.

Now, of course, you also need to remove the distributor cap and check for carbon tracks inside. Check that the center button is not worn out and the rotor is not excessively eroded.

Also check that the curved line on top of the distributor pulley is lined up with the flywheel with the flywheel at TDC. Finally, check that timing is at 32 (or 30 to be safe) degrees BTDC at full throttle.

Clymers is not as good as a factory manual but for these engines, it is quite adequate for repair and troubleshooting.

 

[jaybirddog11]

Re: 1979 100 hp chrysler ignition switch wiring

Thanks for the help Frank.
When I disconnect the white wire (tach) from "M", that would leave the white wire going directly to the tachometer only, correct?
I tested the ignition per your instructions and still wouldn't fire.
I tested the CD pack per your instructions and got sparks the first few times but then nothing. Guess I need to talk to the wife. I have looked around and found they are around $250? My coil is fairly new, do you have to buy them as a package? My spark plug wires are only few years old but I was unable to replace the center button. I dont think it looks too bad though. Any suggestions? My rotor arm is new. Timing marks are lined up. When I get spark I will double check timing. I will invest in a factory manual as I am tired of trying to figure out Clymers. I found a place online where I can download for only $15!
Thanks again.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: 1979 100 hp chrysler ignition switch wiring

If you have a tach, the white wire can go directly to the signal terminal on the tach and the tach needs to be set to (4) pulses per rev. If you are only using the (M) terminal as a convenient place to mount the white wire AND have a jumper going from it to the tach signal, this is OK because the "M" terminals are only in continuity with each other with the switch off and are never in continuity with any other terminal.

Suggestion: A lot of people mess with the carbs and melt pistons on these engines. Try to buy a junker distributor engine with good electronics. Everything except the rotor and cap is interchangeable between the three and four cylinder engines. HINT: it is also possible to install points in place of a defective pre-amp module; they simply screw down in the same spot. They do not need a condenser since they are just signaling the CD box to dump and should be set to .010 (off the top of my head--look in Clymers, they give the setting.) SO: a whole 4 cylinder points distributor can be swapped onto your engine. Wiring ids slightly different but shown in back of Clymers.

If you are on the East coast, before you buy a new CD box, try "Chuck" for a used one. 1 856 467 1629. The guy is an old dealer in Jersey and has more Chrysler engines than you can shake a stick at. You are more likely to get him after 5 PM.

 

[jaybirddog11]

Re: 1979 100 hp chrysler ignition switch wiring

Thanks for the tips.
I live in Vegas, but I might try and see if he would ship anyway.
Also,
I am looking to remove my flywheel to inspect and need a puller. Do you know where I might buy or rent one? Clymers says I need part # T 8948-1.
I have looked online and find nothing.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: 1979 100 hp chrysler ignition switch wiring

Go to your local auto parts store and buy or rent a harmonic balance puller or a steering wheel puller. The flywheel takes (3) 1/4 x 20 bolts. Clean the holes and run the bolts all the way in or they may strip. If by chance they do strip, just re-tap to 5/16 X 18.

 

[jaybirddog11]

Re: 1979 100 hp chrysler ignition switch wiring

So I pulled the flywheel off and stator. My stator has one somewhat burned prong thing. Could this be what is contributing to my problems? Any suggestions.

 

[jaybirddog11]

Re: 1979 100 hp chrysler ignition switch wiring

Here is a picture

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: 1979 100 hp chrysler ignition switch wiring

Using an ohmmeter checl for continuity. If it is infinite ohms or no continuity the windings are broken, probably at that point.

Since it is a 12 volt alternator producing a couple of amps, the resistance should be low. I can't find my Clymers and I don't remember the exact number. But it should be less than 100 ohms. If it is zero (0) then the wiring is shorted.

 

[big din]

1979 100 hp chrysler, ALTERNATOR PROBLEM.

1979 100 hp chrysler, ALTERNATOR PROBLEM.

Hi there ive got a 1979 100hp chrysler outbourd motor and the alternator is not charging the battery ive change the voltage regulator and she still dose not charge at all im wandering if you can help me out. so wot do you think is wrong?

 

[jaybirddog11]

Re: 1979 100 hp chrysler ignition switch wiring

Big Din, It sounds like your stator might be shot. If you have a manual, try testing according to the book. I believe the resistance should be around 1 ohm. If you get nothing, it is probably fried. I just replace mine. It was working ok but there was a burnt pole so I found a used one for $47.50.
Check this website: http://www.chrysleroutboards.com/chrysler_outboard_parts_and_serv.htm

 

[big din]

Re: 1979 100 hp chrysler ignition switch wiring

jaybirddog11 thanx bro but thats not the problem we still tring to work it out ill keap in touch ok bro thanx big din

 

[big din]

Re: 1979 100 hp chrysler ignition switch wiring

joybirddog11 are you be able to take a photo of the motor 4 the timing top dead center facing the dizzy i cant work it out its back firing on me and i dont no how to set it up thanx heaps bro big din.

 

[jaybirddog11]

Re: 1979 100 hp chrysler ignition switch wiring

Big Din, here is a picture. I am not sure how much you know about the timing. Not sure how much I know either. From what I do know, the distributor has a rounded line on top which should align with the flywheel when at TDC. Let me know if this works for you.

 

[big din]

Re: 1979 100 hp chrysler ignition switch wiring

thanks bro its easy to work it out thank you very very very much bro ill keap in touch thanks agen bro