rewiring a prodject

michaeltx

Cadet
Joined
Dec 18, 2008
Messages
27
Re: rewiring a prodject

i apologize for getting grumpy, but u have to understand i didnt know what a circuit breaker and a fuse panel was until now. i dont like being put on the spot This subjest is dropped.

i still didnt get my questions answered: do the gauges have to be connected to the fuse box???? Also, should i have a circuit breaker and a fuse box for each battery??? Oh, can i use a circuit breaker and fuse panel from an auto store?

let me know if this is correct: battery to circuit breaker, to fuse panel, to switches at the bow/dash/and back of boat. I'm wanting to do this project because i want to know what is going where. it looks like a horrible birds nest under the console so i want it all done right.
 

Silvertip

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 22, 2003
Messages
28,762
Re: rewiring a prodject

Look at my diagram again. It shows you in as simple a manner as possible "how" things are wired. "Where" each item goes is up to you. I can't tell you where things are physically located in your boat because I don't know what devices you have or plan to have. You cannot tell an electrician to wire your house if you don't tell him/her where you want outlets, switches, and what fixtures you want. Without that information we can't help except to provide very general information. So lets start again but I will answer your gauge question first. NO! Gauges do not connect to the fuse panel. They are powered from the ignition switch which is part of the engine harness which is the electrical cable that runs from the engine to the shift/throttle control box. You do have one those don't you?

Batteries: You need one to start the engine. Boats have been fitted with one battery for many decades so two or three are not necessary unless you have a trolling motor or some other very high power accessories. If all you have is a radio, a few lights and maybe a fish finder, you don't need two batteries. Before we go any further, do you or do you not have an engine and control box for this boat. If so, what year make and model?

The starting battery needs to be installed close to the engine so that means it goes at the back of the boat within reach of the big battery cables that connect to the engine. There are no fuses or circuit breakers associated with the engine except for the one under the engine cover. From here on follow along using my diagram.

Two #8 gauge wires (one red and one black) connect between the battery and the fuse panel which is located at the console. A 20 amp circuit breaker is attached to the positive post of the battery. The other terminal has the red wire connected to it. Only two terminals on a circuit breaker and it doesn't matter which connects to the battery and which one the red wire connects to.

At the fuse panel the red wire connects to the +12 volt buss. A buss is simply a single connection that ties one side of all the fuses together. The other side of each fuse goes to a switch or to some other device. The black wire from the battery connects to the ground buss. Again, this is simply one spot where all of the ground wires "from" each device connects.

All switches on a boat are basically wired the same except for your NAVIGATION/ANCHOR lights which are the geen/red light (NAV) at the bow and the white light at the stern (anchor light). This takes a special switch and wiring is as shown below in two diagrams depending on which type of switch you have.
This is a six pole switch (six terminals). The switch is OFF in the middle, and ON in the UP and DOWN positions. UP turns on both the NAV and ANC lights. DOWN turns on only the ANC light.
NavSwitchWiring.jpg

This is a simple three terminal switch but it does require use of a diode available at Radio Shack for less than a buck. Switches are available right here on IBoats. There is nothing special about switches other than you need marine rated as they are subject to lots of moisture. Buy what suits your fancy.
Nav-AnchorSwitch.jpg



Here is a diagram of how current flows through a simple circuit. Think of it as water flowing through a pipe from a bucket. It goes down the red wire, through a fuse, through a switch (valve) through the device or devices and back to the bucket on the black wire. Just follow the arrows. All circuits are wired this way.

LightingCircuit.jpg


The number of switches you need is simple to figure out. What do you need to turn on and off? Whatever that number is is the number of switches you need. All of the switches should be located at the console because that's where you will be sitting when driving the boat. As I mentioned before, if you use a fuse panel (fuse block) as I've shown in my diagram, you don't need circuit breakers.

My last bit of advice would be for you to head to your local library and check out a book on "Low Voltage Wiring Basics". This has nothing to do with boats, but the concepts for boat wiring are basic low voltage. I've now gone as far as I can go not knowing what you plan to install in the boat, what gauges you have, what you will be adding, trolling motor or not, fish finder or not, radio or not, interior lights, live well, bilge pump, and any other things I didn't mention.
 

michaeltx

Cadet
Joined
Dec 18, 2008
Messages
27
Re: rewiring a prodject

my motor is a 1989 150hp Johnson. Yes i do have the shift/ throttle.

on your 6pole terminal diagram, what use is it to have that switch when turned down only the stern light comes on? isnt that pointless if both light are required on at night?

i really appreciate u explaining this to me.
 

Silvertip

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 22, 2003
Messages
28,762
Re: rewiring a prodject

You need to read boating regulations. When a boat is on the water but stopped (such as when anchored), only the white stern light is supposed to be on (that's why it's called an ANCHOR light) as it tells oncoming boats that you are stationary. The red and green lights at the bow in combination with the stern light are called NAV (navigation) lights because they tell oncoming traffic that you are indeed moving. The red and green light are visible or not visible depending on which direction your or they are approaching from.
 

michaeltx

Cadet
Joined
Dec 18, 2008
Messages
27
Re: rewiring a prodject

ok i have a question about the last diagram, "The Basic Lighting Circuit"...u put, From fuse panel--->fuse---->switch-----> light #1 and light #2. this confused me, why is there a fuse after the fuse panel?? i think i understand y, but i want to know for sure.

about the lights on at night. i didnt know that the stern is the only one on when stopped. ive always just left both on either way i went. honestly i thought it was to have some light to see in the boat.
 

fishrdan

Admiral
Joined
Jan 25, 2008
Messages
6,989
Re: rewiring a prodject

The fuse in ST's diagram just indicates there's a fuse in the circuit, not a second fuse along with the one in the fuse panel.

I'm using one of these in my boat and it's a good quality fuse panel with plenty of space to connect all your power and ground wires. Use soemthing like this or the spade connector one shown in one of ST's diagrams. Either way, you want a marine grade fuse panel so you are sure it can handle being in a boat,,, I wouldn't be shopping at RadioShack for the fuse panel.
http://www.iboats.com/Screw_Terminal_Blade_Fuse_Block_ATO_ATC_12_Circuit_with_Ground_Blue_Sea_Systems/dm/*******.265501610--**********.457462974--view_id.163741
5026_0.jpg


Follow ST's recommendation of wire size and breaker going to the panel (from the battery) and wire everything to the panel, makes it nice and neat,,, and if you have an electrical problem you know where to go looking.
 

Silvertip

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 22, 2003
Messages
28,762
Re: rewiring a prodject

All circuits start at the fuse panel. 12 volts and ground from the battery go INTO the fuse panel. The fuse panel is merely a distribution device with many fuses in it. My diagram merely indicates that any circuit fed from the fuse panel STARTS at the panel, goes through the fuse located IN the panel, then to a switch etc. You do not use two fuses in a single circuit as it serves no useful purpose. There are many types of fuses as well so don't let that confuse you. The flat type fuses you have in your car are the currently preferred type and there many fuse panels that accept them. Panels for boats range from about 4 circuits to a dozen or more. Since you have zero low voltage experience, before you start this project I suggest you use that last diagram and on a work bench, connect everything in that circuit to ensure you understand how it works. If you can't make it work on a bench, you certainly cannot make it work in your boat. You don't need to use the same components you intend to use in a boat. Electrons don't care how things look so you can use any 12 volt light, any simple 50 cent switch, a 75 cent fuse holder from your local auto parts store or Home Improvement center electrical dept.
 

michaeltx

Cadet
Joined
Dec 18, 2008
Messages
27
Re: rewiring a prodject

ok i was just wandering. i brought that up about getting my circuit breaker from an auto parts store, i didnt know if it had to be marine grade. i went ahead and bought a fuse panel there too. well i now have a better idea what to do now.

this will probably sound stupid asking, but my boat originally came with 2 of the lowrance depth finders (i guess thats what they r) how do i go by and replacing them with updated items. they r roughly about 3 or 4 inches in diameter and i didnt know if they were replaceable. im wanting to update the boat so it doesnt look like its still in the 80's
 

fishrdan

Admiral
Joined
Jan 25, 2008
Messages
6,989
Re: rewiring a prodject

The stuff you can get at the (auto parts, home improvement, electronic's) store will work for a while in a marine environment, but it's not goign to work for the long haul. Heck, I've even had problems with cheaply built marine electrical items working years later. Water has a way of making electrical things stop working....

Check out the place I posted inn my first reply, they might be higher on some items, but most of their "marine grade" electrical is the same price as the cheap stuff you can get locally. It only takes a few days to receive your stuff as they ship priority mail, 2-3 days,,, at least that's how I received mine.

If you are looking to replacing your sonar(s), I think it would be best to start another thread so we don't stray off your main subject here. Electrically, the sonar will be the easiest thing you will connect, +, - and you are done... Transducer,,, not so easy.
 
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