going from a 4.3 to a 5.7 350

Joined
Oct 30, 2009
Messages
8
ok i have a 1999 bayliner 1850 with a 4.3. i need to replace the block because i found out where u bolt the starter to a chunk got chipped off and somebody jb welded it on and i was looking at it and it was barley on.

option 1: rig something up like welding then tapping
option 2: buy another 4.3 bare block and swapping the internals
option 3: swap a 350 in that i can get ahold of from a friend

but with option 3 the swap i dont know if it will fit. i havent really looked to see how big the engine bay is because even if it looks like it might fit i dont know if it will actually work as in everything lining up and functioning

has anybody put a 350 in a 1850 bayliner or have one
 

havasuboatman

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Mar 5, 2009
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904
Re: going from a 4.3 to a 5.7 350

Cast iron can be welded, but make sure your welder know what he's doing. Even then, that is a high stress point. Scetchy, at best.
Buying another block, and switching swaping the parts? Sure, but each cylinder has to be honed to fit it's respective cylinder. You are better off buying a short block.
Yes, a SMC will fit nicely into your boat, but then you run into outdrive gearing problems (possibly) What is your manufacturer (OMC, Merc., Volvo)?
 

zbnutcase

Commander
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Sep 19, 2009
Messages
2,055
Re: going from a 4.3 to a 5.7 350

Stick with the 4.3 if I was you. 'nutcase
 
Joined
Oct 30, 2009
Messages
8
Re: going from a 4.3 to a 5.7 350

Cast iron can be welded, but make sure your welder know what he's doing. Even then, that is a high stress point. Scetchy, at best.
Buying another block, and switching swaping the parts? Sure, but each cylinder has to be honed to fit it's respective cylinder. You are better off buying a short block.
Yes, a SMC will fit nicely into your boat, but then you run into outdrive gearing problems (possibly) What is your manufacturer (OMC, Merc., Volvo)?

the person im buying it front has a stern drive and everything its a complete swap.
and mercruiser
 

superpop

Master Chief Petty Officer
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Mar 5, 2006
Messages
869
Re: going from a 4.3 to a 5.7 350

Then do the V-8, no question. The 5.7L is very similar to the 4.3L in fact the 4.3L is a 5.7L with the two front pistons shaved off. Motor mount should all be the same. If you have around 8" in front of the 4.3L now then the V-8 will fit just fine.
 

Don S

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Messages
62,321
Re: going from a 4.3 to a 5.7 350

The 5.7L is very similar to the 4.3L in fact the 4.3L is a 5.7L with the two front pistons shaved off. Motor mount should all be the same.

Never tried it have you. It's obvious, cause the mounts are different, and the drive gear ratio is different. He might eventually make it fit, but it won't run like he is expecting with the wrong gear ratio, and props won't fix the problem. If they would, Merc wouldn't make different ratio's for each. Think about it.

The starter mouning area has to put up with a lot of strain. If it's broken, you need a block. It's just that simple.
 

TilliamWe

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Dec 21, 2004
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6,579
Re: going from a 4.3 to a 5.7 350

Actually a 4.3 V6 is a SBC V8 with cylinders #3 and #4 removed. (Or is it #5 and #6?) Anyway, the missing cylinders come from the middle of the block, not the front two. The reason to make that distinction is that it means the from motor mounts in the boat will be off by approximately 4.4 inches. It can also make the exhaust hard to line up.

Wakeboarder, my dad did this swap in a 19' Sea Ray Seville. I can give you all the specifics you want in a PM. But here's what I typed to another guy a week ago:

****"Doable, and not a pain in the butt, if you buy a complete Mercruiser 5.7, and have mechanical ability. My father did it on an 89 Sea Ray he owned. The "only" issues he had were that the fuel tank was in the way of one of the front of the engine accessories, and the exhaust hoses were a little hard to get to stay on the Y-Pipe. Moving the engine mounts was easy, since his were just lag screwed into the stringer and there was sufficient stringer ahead of his existing ones to move them the approxiamtely 4.4 inches it will take. He did not have to re-gear his outdrive, but it did take a 25 pitch prop, which are not common.

Big pain in the butt if you try to piece it all together, one part at a time."****

I typed this back in July to a guy who wanted to install a 5.7 in place of a 4.3 in the same boat as what my dad did:

#####"Moving the motor mounts is easy. The "block" where they are currently screwed in, should be long enough to allow you to unscrew them, and rescrew them where you need them.
You fuel tank will probably be in the way. At least my dad's was, when he put the 5.7 in his 19' Seville. He eventually bought a new fuel tank to allow the clearance for the front of the engine accessories. it cost real money, though.
Your engine cover will probably hit the water pump pulley, so get ready to move it a little.
My dad made the V6 Y-Pipe work, but did have some issues with hose fitment. Can't remember why exactly, though.
He had a 1.81 ratio drive, and he was able to reuse it, just with a 25p prop. Now his 5.7 that he installed was no modern Vortec motor. It was a 1987 5.7, that with the cam and carb he used, probably was close to 225hp. If you install a Vortec engine that's making a lot of HP, you should probably change the outsrive. For $1195, you can get a complete Alpha One replacement from SEI. So I would not mess around with paying someone to change gear sets.
Your best course is to find a complete take out 5.7 off e-bay or somewhere. Yeah I know they are $$$, but you are going to have to buy all exhaust the stuff to fit a 5.7, and the intake, so you may spend $$$ buying it piece meal any way." ####
 

gemcitypos

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Joined
Sep 23, 2008
Messages
20
Re: going from a 4.3 to a 5.7 350

wakeboarder,
I have done this swap in a 94' Maxum 2050. I bought the repo boat with no engine. Originally came with 4.3

The first thing I did was confirm that my boat originally offered the 305 engine (same size as 350) as an option. (mine did) If so you should have room. Otherwise you will have to do some measuring. Motor Mount measurements (4.4"), Front clearance etc..

Since my boat offered the 305 as an option, my only issue was clearance of the P/S Pump on the doghouse engine cover. My outdrive is a 1.81 and I reproped with a 23p 4 blade and my rpms were within WOT.

Ran the boat all summer in Lake Mohave and Lake Powell, and boy did I like the extra HP. Especially on the long runs at Lake Powell.

If you have any ?'s Feel free to PM me.
 

wca_tim

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
May 28, 2007
Messages
1,708
Re: going from a 4.3 to a 5.7 350

I would second no need to change gear ratio if you go with the small block. It will actually be faster with the higher gear and higher pitch props than with the merc standard ratio for a v-8. props are also cheaper than new outdrives - if you do decide to change ratios, i would second the notion above.

I would recommend keeping the 1.8... I would intentionally go with that ratio even if i had a 1.5 to start with. in a light boat lkike yours it will make a good bit of difference (for the better) and won't be too hard on the drive....

Note that you'll need to be sure that the engine compartment has about 4" more space in front of the engine - look in particular where the power steering pump will have to be.

also, on a small light boat like that the extra weight will be a factor to consider. especially with factory exhaust manifolds, etc...

the motor mounds will have to be moved forward about 3 inches. almost everything else from the v-6 will work. if you need a v-8 ignition module, drop me an email and I might swap you one for your v-6 unit if you like.

all that being said, you might be best off buying a completel 4.3 long block as a reman with vortec heads and go from there.

just depends on what you want to do... v-8 will be a little of a pain depending on how tight things fit, but should be pretty straightforward if you're reasonably mechanically inclined.

was the boat ever offered from the factory with a v-8 in it? not a big deal if no...

just some thoughts
 

superpop

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 5, 2006
Messages
869
Re: going from a 4.3 to a 5.7 350

the person im buying it front has a stern drive and everything its a complete swap.
and mercruiser

If he is buying the whole set up then the gear ratio should be set up for the 5.7L. And I stand corrected on the mounts, but it still is typically not that big of a deal to move the mounts along the stringers if it is already set up for a V-6.
 

wca_tim

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
May 28, 2007
Messages
1,708
Re: going from a 4.3 to a 5.7 350

agreed on the mounts. On mine, there wasn't enough room to move the mounts up so i had to add a couple fo inches to the underlying support structure.

On a light boat, i would run the 1.81 / 1.84 gear ratio even if i had a 1.5. I've run 1.81, 1.62, 1.47 and 1.32 with the same boat and engine combination... all with high quality stainless props pitched to put wot rpms at about the same rpms (right at peak hp for the engine). the 1.81 was the fastest, then 1.6, then 1.5. 1.32 ties the 1.5, but it's a shorter, more streamlined drive. I expect it to be a good bit faster once I get around to regearing it to 1.65... The difference between the 1.81 and 1.47 was at least 5-6 mph... huge

Just my experience...
 
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