jhs5150
Seaman Apprentice
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2009
- Messages
- 34
This is a little knowledge I have come to know from experience. If it sounds negative, it is not meant to be. I'm just trying to help out the next guy looking for a used boat. Comments welcome. Thanks, JS
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The 10 Commandments of Used Boat Buying.
1. Buyer beware. Most new boat owners don't know anything about boats ? once they own one though, they learn fast. The ones that do know boats also know ways to cover up their flaws, so look with your eyes and not with your ears.
2. Don't buy one that hasn't been covered or sheltered when not being used. Be suspect of a brand new cover, it could indicate a cover-up. Custom fit covers (using snaps) are a better indication that the owner took care of the inside - they cost more money than a $49 Walmart boat cover. If it has a tarp over it check the boat for water damage. Tarps are good for about a year. Check for water damage anyway. Check the entire floor for rot. If there is a soft spot in the floor, ANYWHERE, walk away. Rest assured you will be knee-deep in repairs if you don?t. Examine the transom (the back wall of the boat) for any exposed holes on the outside of the boat and inside below the motor. If the boat has an internal engine, remove the cover and inspect everything, including the transom behind it. If the wall has any cracks or you see obvious repair patches - walk away. If the owner states the transom was repaired/replaced ask to see pictures and/or the repair bill. If he has neither, walk away. Inspect the engine for any missing/loose/broken parts and fluid leaks. A little water in the trough under the motor is normal - a lot could indicate the boat sat out in the rain or you have a transom leak. See # 4.
3. Always take it for a ride before you buy it. Running the engine on the owner's driveway is not a proper substitute. You want to make sure it goes forward, reverse and runs smoothly at all throttle positions. Run the boat up to wide-open-throttle (WOT). If the boat sprays water straight up the back of the boat (roostertails), the deck (floor) could be waterlogged. A waterlogged deck will cause the boat to sit too deep in the water, causing the roostertailing and poor steering (hard to turn). Walk away unless you are prepared to spend big $$$$$.
a. Make sure the motor doesn't smoke. A little smoke at startup is OK, especially if the choke was used to start it. If it smokes while running there could be a problem. The owner may tell you it's smoking because of an improper gas/oil mix but if that were true the engine would run badly as well - especially at full speed (WOT). If it is a 4- cycle engine (runs straight gas, no oil) any smoke indicates a problem. Oil in the trough is a sign of a leak. If you suspect the engine at all, either have it checked by a competent mechanic or walk away. Better to spend a little money having it checked than BIG $$$$$ after you get it home and discover it?s bad. See #1.
b. Check the propeller and the skag (the fin on the bottom of the motor/outdrive), if it is chipped the boat probably hit something or the motor/drive wasn't raised prior to transporting. Damage could indicate engine damage as well - See # 1. If the engine has power trim, make sure it works going up AND down. I have seen it work in one direction and not the other. Test the lights and the horn. The Coast Guard will flag you if you don't have them or they don't work. TEST EVERYTHING. A speedometer does you no good if it doesn't work, nor does the gas gauge. A bad trim gauge won?t kill you but still costs $$$ to replace, if you can still get it. A bad temp gauge WILL kill you if your engine overheats out on the water and you?re stuck out there with your wife and kids. See #1.
4. It is normal to have a LITTLE water in the transom trough from getting in/out of the boat, rain runoff, etc. but if you have more water in there after you go for a ride than you did before the ride, you have a problem. Walk away or be prepared to spend big $$$$$.
5. If an owner states that he always maintained the boat he will tell you up front because it's a good selling point, but don't stop there, talk to the marina/mechanic who did the maintenance and verify what kind of work was done and how often. If he says he maintained it himself, ask to see the records/receipts. If he doesn't have them assume nothing and verify everything. Taking a few extra steps to verify is better than taking the owner's word for it. Pay no attention to the number of HOURS the owner says the boat has been used (equivalent to mileage on a car). For most non ocean-going boats there is no way to verify this. It is a best-guess and usually nowhere near the truth. Use your sense of logic. If the boat is 10 years old and the owner says it has low hours on it, so what? It?s 10 years old. You have to take age into account. Get it checked out. See # 1.
6. Unless you're buying a boat as a project, don't buy one that needs work. Whatever you think it's going to cost to fix, double it and you might be in the ballpark. If you plan on taking family/friends out in your boat, BUY A NEW ONE or one that's relatively new. It's not worth risking your family's safety on a boat that dies out on the water, especially in waters with tidal currents or stronger flowing rivers. You can get some good deals on new or demonstrator boats at the end of the season. Boats shows usually sell at a discount also.
7. If the obvious stuff is in bad shape the rest of it is probably bad too. Cracked/faded upholstery indicates general neglect - means it sat out in the sun AND THE RAIN, so you probably have water damage. Engine maintenance is probably suspect as well. Faded or chalky finish on the outside is normal after a few years in the sun but if an older boat has a nice finish it could indicate the owner took the time to maintain/store the boat, or it could be window dressing. See # 1.
8. If you see any cracks in the fiberglass, ANYWHERE, walk away, unless you want a project, enjoy itchy skin and/or have lots of time and $$$$$.
9. In my opinion, Bayliners are built like crap. There are so many people with rotten Bayliner floors on the Iboats website it's like an epidemic. They should be shot for building such a shoddy boat. They all have plywood floors with carpet over them. My guess is you'd get 4-5 years out of them before the floor rots. Once it rots you're screwed. The fit and finish on the 80's Bayliners is terrible - so much for NMMA certification. Brunswick should be ashamed. The only decent thing about Bayliners are the engines. It?s hard to screw up what you didn?t build. Even the Force outboards are better then the boats they came on. The 90's Bayliners look better but are constructed the same way. I'm surprised all Bayliners don?t line the bottom of your nearest bay.
10. Don't forget about the trailer. A lot of owners will maintain the boat but neglect the trailer. I looked at a boat that was in good shape but the trailer was made of steel and painted - not good for salt water. The trailer was heavily rusted from dipping in salt water and the paint was coming off - but the owner wanted full price for the boat. If you want the boat, get a price on a new trailer and make an offer for the boat minus the cost of a new trailer. If the owner balks, walk away - there's always a boat for sale somewhere. Connect the lights to your vehicle and make sure they work. If your vehicle isn't set up for lights yet, have the owner connect his to the trailer and test. If the lights don't work and the owner says "it's probably just a bulb", have him fix it before any money changes hands. If you don't, get ready to spend time and/or money to fix it. A boat trailer over 10 years old or one that was used in salt water probably needs to be rewired. The wiring kits you buy at Autozone, etc. aren?t made for salt water because they use copper wire, which corrodes in salt water almost immediately. Get a kit from a marina but ask them if the wiring is designed to be used in salt water. A little research will save you big $$$.
If you are satisfied that the boat is worth buying then get a written bill of sale before any money changes hands.
Note: Check the state you are buying the boat/trailer in to see if they must be titled. If it does and the owner doesn't have the title, don't give him any money (except maybe a small deposit) until he has the title in hand. If the state you will be titling the boat/trailer in requires a title but the state you bought it from does not you should be OK with a bill of sale. Check with your DMV first. DMV checks to see which states require titles and those that don't so, for instance, if PA titles boats/trailers and you are registering them in NJ, you will need a PA title for the boat/trailer before NJ will give you one. You must get the title from the seller before any money changes hands. GETTING A BILL OF SALE FROM THE OWNER WILL DO YOU NO GOOD WITHOUT THE TITLE if the state you are registering the boat/trailer requires a title - you can't get one with a bill of sale. Some states title boats but not trailers - some neither - find out before you buy,
Remember, you are in control until you hand over your money. Once you do that, you are on your own. Good luck.
________________________________
The 10 Commandments of Used Boat Buying.
1. Buyer beware. Most new boat owners don't know anything about boats ? once they own one though, they learn fast. The ones that do know boats also know ways to cover up their flaws, so look with your eyes and not with your ears.
2. Don't buy one that hasn't been covered or sheltered when not being used. Be suspect of a brand new cover, it could indicate a cover-up. Custom fit covers (using snaps) are a better indication that the owner took care of the inside - they cost more money than a $49 Walmart boat cover. If it has a tarp over it check the boat for water damage. Tarps are good for about a year. Check for water damage anyway. Check the entire floor for rot. If there is a soft spot in the floor, ANYWHERE, walk away. Rest assured you will be knee-deep in repairs if you don?t. Examine the transom (the back wall of the boat) for any exposed holes on the outside of the boat and inside below the motor. If the boat has an internal engine, remove the cover and inspect everything, including the transom behind it. If the wall has any cracks or you see obvious repair patches - walk away. If the owner states the transom was repaired/replaced ask to see pictures and/or the repair bill. If he has neither, walk away. Inspect the engine for any missing/loose/broken parts and fluid leaks. A little water in the trough under the motor is normal - a lot could indicate the boat sat out in the rain or you have a transom leak. See # 4.
3. Always take it for a ride before you buy it. Running the engine on the owner's driveway is not a proper substitute. You want to make sure it goes forward, reverse and runs smoothly at all throttle positions. Run the boat up to wide-open-throttle (WOT). If the boat sprays water straight up the back of the boat (roostertails), the deck (floor) could be waterlogged. A waterlogged deck will cause the boat to sit too deep in the water, causing the roostertailing and poor steering (hard to turn). Walk away unless you are prepared to spend big $$$$$.
a. Make sure the motor doesn't smoke. A little smoke at startup is OK, especially if the choke was used to start it. If it smokes while running there could be a problem. The owner may tell you it's smoking because of an improper gas/oil mix but if that were true the engine would run badly as well - especially at full speed (WOT). If it is a 4- cycle engine (runs straight gas, no oil) any smoke indicates a problem. Oil in the trough is a sign of a leak. If you suspect the engine at all, either have it checked by a competent mechanic or walk away. Better to spend a little money having it checked than BIG $$$$$ after you get it home and discover it?s bad. See #1.
b. Check the propeller and the skag (the fin on the bottom of the motor/outdrive), if it is chipped the boat probably hit something or the motor/drive wasn't raised prior to transporting. Damage could indicate engine damage as well - See # 1. If the engine has power trim, make sure it works going up AND down. I have seen it work in one direction and not the other. Test the lights and the horn. The Coast Guard will flag you if you don't have them or they don't work. TEST EVERYTHING. A speedometer does you no good if it doesn't work, nor does the gas gauge. A bad trim gauge won?t kill you but still costs $$$ to replace, if you can still get it. A bad temp gauge WILL kill you if your engine overheats out on the water and you?re stuck out there with your wife and kids. See #1.
4. It is normal to have a LITTLE water in the transom trough from getting in/out of the boat, rain runoff, etc. but if you have more water in there after you go for a ride than you did before the ride, you have a problem. Walk away or be prepared to spend big $$$$$.
5. If an owner states that he always maintained the boat he will tell you up front because it's a good selling point, but don't stop there, talk to the marina/mechanic who did the maintenance and verify what kind of work was done and how often. If he says he maintained it himself, ask to see the records/receipts. If he doesn't have them assume nothing and verify everything. Taking a few extra steps to verify is better than taking the owner's word for it. Pay no attention to the number of HOURS the owner says the boat has been used (equivalent to mileage on a car). For most non ocean-going boats there is no way to verify this. It is a best-guess and usually nowhere near the truth. Use your sense of logic. If the boat is 10 years old and the owner says it has low hours on it, so what? It?s 10 years old. You have to take age into account. Get it checked out. See # 1.
6. Unless you're buying a boat as a project, don't buy one that needs work. Whatever you think it's going to cost to fix, double it and you might be in the ballpark. If you plan on taking family/friends out in your boat, BUY A NEW ONE or one that's relatively new. It's not worth risking your family's safety on a boat that dies out on the water, especially in waters with tidal currents or stronger flowing rivers. You can get some good deals on new or demonstrator boats at the end of the season. Boats shows usually sell at a discount also.
7. If the obvious stuff is in bad shape the rest of it is probably bad too. Cracked/faded upholstery indicates general neglect - means it sat out in the sun AND THE RAIN, so you probably have water damage. Engine maintenance is probably suspect as well. Faded or chalky finish on the outside is normal after a few years in the sun but if an older boat has a nice finish it could indicate the owner took the time to maintain/store the boat, or it could be window dressing. See # 1.
8. If you see any cracks in the fiberglass, ANYWHERE, walk away, unless you want a project, enjoy itchy skin and/or have lots of time and $$$$$.
9. In my opinion, Bayliners are built like crap. There are so many people with rotten Bayliner floors on the Iboats website it's like an epidemic. They should be shot for building such a shoddy boat. They all have plywood floors with carpet over them. My guess is you'd get 4-5 years out of them before the floor rots. Once it rots you're screwed. The fit and finish on the 80's Bayliners is terrible - so much for NMMA certification. Brunswick should be ashamed. The only decent thing about Bayliners are the engines. It?s hard to screw up what you didn?t build. Even the Force outboards are better then the boats they came on. The 90's Bayliners look better but are constructed the same way. I'm surprised all Bayliners don?t line the bottom of your nearest bay.
10. Don't forget about the trailer. A lot of owners will maintain the boat but neglect the trailer. I looked at a boat that was in good shape but the trailer was made of steel and painted - not good for salt water. The trailer was heavily rusted from dipping in salt water and the paint was coming off - but the owner wanted full price for the boat. If you want the boat, get a price on a new trailer and make an offer for the boat minus the cost of a new trailer. If the owner balks, walk away - there's always a boat for sale somewhere. Connect the lights to your vehicle and make sure they work. If your vehicle isn't set up for lights yet, have the owner connect his to the trailer and test. If the lights don't work and the owner says "it's probably just a bulb", have him fix it before any money changes hands. If you don't, get ready to spend time and/or money to fix it. A boat trailer over 10 years old or one that was used in salt water probably needs to be rewired. The wiring kits you buy at Autozone, etc. aren?t made for salt water because they use copper wire, which corrodes in salt water almost immediately. Get a kit from a marina but ask them if the wiring is designed to be used in salt water. A little research will save you big $$$.
If you are satisfied that the boat is worth buying then get a written bill of sale before any money changes hands.
Note: Check the state you are buying the boat/trailer in to see if they must be titled. If it does and the owner doesn't have the title, don't give him any money (except maybe a small deposit) until he has the title in hand. If the state you will be titling the boat/trailer in requires a title but the state you bought it from does not you should be OK with a bill of sale. Check with your DMV first. DMV checks to see which states require titles and those that don't so, for instance, if PA titles boats/trailers and you are registering them in NJ, you will need a PA title for the boat/trailer before NJ will give you one. You must get the title from the seller before any money changes hands. GETTING A BILL OF SALE FROM THE OWNER WILL DO YOU NO GOOD WITHOUT THE TITLE if the state you are registering the boat/trailer requires a title - you can't get one with a bill of sale. Some states title boats but not trailers - some neither - find out before you buy,
Remember, you are in control until you hand over your money. Once you do that, you are on your own. Good luck.
