Excessive Blowby with high rpm ticking

[MikDee]

Re: Excessive Blowby with high rpm ticking

PS I can't remember the name brand of the valve seals. They were rubber, bright orange, and at least on the port side that I have already opened up, they were all still tight and seated and in place.

Good, they were new replacements! I'd take that out of the equation for now.
But, I wonder about that high pressure oil pump?

Something else to think about, I thought boats don't use a pcv valve Just a hose to each valve cover. Finally is your flame arrestor clean, & clear, if it's been sitting so long maybe it's clogged?

 

[KRH1326]

Re: Excessive Blowby with high rpm ticking

What harm can high volume oil pump do?

I do not know if PCV is (or was) standard. I dont know if these are the original valve covers. They have been painted, and of course I shot them too. I did not see any kind of decals or emblems and such. I do KNOW that they are old enough to be orig, they are heavier than any tin I've seen lately.

I just looked at photos of another late 70's engine and outdrive that I am considering buying, for this boat. I can see the breather in the exact same location, but where the pcv is , I can't tell if it is just an elbow or a pcv.

 

[flargin]

Re: Excessive Blowby with high rpm ticking

normally the PCV valve hole is plugged with a fitted elbow, which is tubed up to the flame arrestor.

I don't remember but I am quite sure I have a high volume oil pump in mine, I thought that was SOP for boats (they need the extra cooling when running at WOT for hours and hours and hours

High Pressure pump, don't know if that is a different pump, but if it is designed to produce pressure, but not volume that could be a problem.

Did you ever get compression numbers?

 

[KRH1326]

Re: Excessive Blowby with high rpm ticking

No, not yet. Check post #22.

I am torturing myself right now sitting here handcuffed to the kids, wishing I was doing this work right now.

 

[a70eliminator]

Re: Excessive Blowby with high rpm ticking

Just a couple FYI's
The main caps and rod caps are number stamped from the factory.
The high volume oil pump should be coupled with a higher capacity pan along with a host of several other oil control improvements or it can actualy hurt you.
Your dad has the right idea on the rockers definately.
You can drop the distributor in any old position it's just going to move the wire sequence and as long as rotor fires #1 compression the engine will run and timing marks will be acurate, not saying it's right but it can be done.
One thing you'll want to do at this point is rev the motor to 3000 RPM's and see what your total advance.

Edit:
What happens is the high volume pumps will pump all your oil out of the pan before it can return back which cavitates the pump and floods the valve train causing oil to leak past valve stem seals and contaminate the incoming fuel charge, starve crank bearings ect.
this is where the the oil control improvements come in, without the improved oil your actually better off with the stock pump.

 

[MikDee]

Re: Excessive Blowby with high rpm ticking

Just a couple FYI's
The main caps and rod caps are number stamped from the factory.
The high volume oil pump should be coupled with a higher capacity pan along with a host of several other oil control improvements or it can actualy hurt you.
Your dad has the right idea on the rockers definately.
You can drop the distributor in any old position it's just going to move the wire sequence and as long as rotor fires #1 compression the engine will run and timing marks will be acurate, not saying it's right but it can be done.
One thing you'll want to do at this point is rev the motor to 3000 RPM's and see what your total advance.

Edit:
What happens is the high volume pumps will pump all your oil out of the pan before it can return back which cavitates the pump and floods the valve train causing oil to leak past valve stem seals and contaminate the incoming fuel charge, starve crank bearings ect.
this is where the the oil control improvements come in, without the improved oil your actually better off with the stock pump.

a70E, Someone wrote about issues with a high volume pump recently, It must have been you. I believe it! It seems I've heard similar storys to this in the past. Also, he has a 351 Ford, not a Chevy, so torquing the valves to adjust them is normal and since the question came up, solid lifters are adjusted using a feeler gauge in between to set the required lash, I've done this ages ago on a 62'-327/300hp Chevy, with the engine running too! You get a feel for this as well.

Again I don't think there is supposed to be a PCV valve on a boat, all your oil vapors are sucked straight back into the carb flame arrestor through both valve cover hoses.

P.S. I've found most street engines don't use windage trays in the oilpan, but I did read on the small block Chevy it's good for a 10hp boost over 5,000rpm. I would think if it keeps oil in the pan then, that maybe with a high volume pump it won't let it drain back as fast as it should, compounding the problem,,, Now, I'm just speculating here, this is just my opinion.

 

[a70eliminator]

Re: Excessive Blowby with high rpm ticking

I do realize were talking about a ford here, Dad's suggestion still stands about the rockers, though the rockers are swinging on positive stop studs if heads are milled deck surfaced valve seats redone ect the effects can negate the need for custom length pushrods and valve tips kissed ect. and being there is abnormal valve train noise and .040 slugs who knows? Dad may just be leading the horse to water IMO.

 

[KRH1326]

Re: Excessive Blowby with high rpm ticking

I did the marks on the damper for two reasons. The damper has to be 30 years old, on a raw water cooled system, that has no doubt had several leaks in various places over the years. The original marks were unreadable, barely legible. Second , I am a Steamfitter, pipe welder by trade. Been burnin for 30 years, my eyesight has deteriorated significantly. Even if it were a fairly new damper, I would be afraid of not being able to see it. Marking it up was just to make my tuning life easier. If I go out and put a timing light on it now, I bet you could see it from wherever you are. Passing planes must think I'm sending morse.

 

[KRH1326]

Re: Excessive Blowby with high rpm ticking

PS- Thank you for all of the help and suggestions. Thursday down, Friday to go. Come the wee hours of Saturday morning, while all of the lucky ones are heading out for stripers, I will be rowing out to put all of your input to use.

I must admit I have been chasing my tail and charging around like a blind bull, just trying to get her done, but now I have some REAL ammo to fire with.

Thanks again

 

[KRH1326]

Re: Excessive Blowby with high rpm ticking

First thing I did was pull all plugs. I used a Comp Cams TDC stop bolt on #1 and verified that my timing marks are dead on. Made sure I was at end of compression stroke.
OK, I left off with the port valve train exposed. This morning I checked for lash. I found that two intake and two exhaust valves were OK, but 2 and 2 were NOT. Zero lash, and actually were slightly depressing valves. I fabbed up some shims ( ordered real ones) and reassembled. Couldn't get my compression tester fitting into plug holes past my way large cumbersome Osco center rise manifold. Couldn't even get two of the outer valve cover bolts back in, past manifold. Had to drop riser and manifold. Got compression test results for port side.

# 5 125 psi
# 6 150 psi
# 7 125 psi
# 8 130 psi

Installed valve cover, reinstalled manifold, Cannot reinstall riser at this time, for lack of gasket.

Dropped starboard manifold and riser. Pulled valve cover. Checked all rods, all had no end play and rotated with finger pressure, just like the port side after shimming. ( Yes, I did it at the three crank positions to ensure closed valves.)

Did compression check.

#1 125 psi
#2 125 psi
#3 125 psi
#4 125 psi

Called it quits at that point, for the day. Hit three different marine supply stores and found that my OSCO gaskets have been discontinued, tho I just two earlier this season. Just ordered two gaskets online.

Tommorrow AM, will make 2 temp riser gaskets from gasket material (until new arrive). I have the old center rise style CRR-1 with 6 bolts. I can't justify upgrading exhaust until I know I'm not wasting my time and money.

Reinstall starboard valve cover and exhaust manifold. Install both risers.
Then after the misc remaining items, fire it, and reset timing.
I plan to rev and hold 3000 to see where advance takes me to.

Am I missing anything?

 

[KRH1326]

Re: Excessive Blowby with high rpm ticking

Thanks,
What about today's work and the plan for tommorrow? Do you think I am on the right track or am I missing something?

 

[KRH1326]

Re: Excessive Blowby with high rpm ticking

No not on muffs, on mooring. I have to work on her at sea. Or have it hauled every time.

 

[KRH1326]

Re: Excessive Blowby with high rpm ticking

A few seemed to indicate that I should see if this 30 year old distributor is actually giving me the advance. I have the advance curve chart. Just to see if that is keeping me down.

 

[KRH1326]

Re: Excessive Blowby with high rpm ticking

Holy Moley, I just did a bunch of reading about compression testing.

I think mine may be faulty.

1) It was done on a cold engine, hadn't been run in a week.

2) I didn't pin open the throttle plates in my carb.

Does this affect my reading? If so how?

 

[Rat Capri]

Re: Excessive Blowby with high rpm ticking

throttle blade openeing can affect peak number but what you really need to watch is balance...cold vs. hot will hide bad rings...best to recheck after warm up