Can this block be saved? 1986 Inline-6 115

[deerhuntre]

The bottom two cylinders have rust, but the number five seized and is destroyed. There is a crack in the exhaust port and there's a hole in the exhaust side. There's a chunk in the top of the cylinder and there's a misc. dent. Please look at the photo's.

If I can't or shouldn't save this block, can I get any year inline 6 115 for parts and rebuild mine with the block form a 'new' one using any good parts from my old one? (such as the CD ignition?)

 

[Droll]

Re: Can this block be saved? 1986 Inline-6 115

Everything can be repaired...Advanced got replacement sleeves for that 0engine ,some cylinder might clean up but boring...the holes can be welded....BUT I would try to locate a better block.

Any inline made between 1972 and 1988 ( + the 140 from 72 ) will bolt on to your mid, but I would try to find a 1979.5 > 140hp or a 1983/4 > 1988 115 hp as they got the newer ADI ignition system ( no distributor ) .


Arne Kjetil

 

[deerhuntre]

Re: Can this block be saved? 1986 Inline-6 115

Although I haven't dissassembled the crank yet, here's some initial photo's. In the next few days I'll remove the stuff and get a few photo's of the crank in the nude.

So, in the mean time, here's some pictures of the crank clothed. The upper bearing seems pretty good, but I'd be inclined to replace it. However, the lower bearing was wet and makes the sound of sand and feels like there's sand inside it when rotated.

I wonder how long there has been water intrusion?

Here's the crank, top to bottom. Let me know if these do now show what you would need to see to determine its condition.

 

[Droll]

Re: Can this block be saved? 1986 Inline-6 115

This is NOT the first time this engine has been apart ??

First thing to do...strip the crankshaft all the way down, you might start with the broken rod....look rusty, probably damaged beyond repair.

The broken rod also look misaligned, but are probably cased by the rod failure.

Looks like the crankshaft already have a speedy sleeve at the bottom seal aria..

Easiest fix would be a replacement crankshaft from Ebay or other sales site .

Arne Kjetil

 

[daveswaves]

Re: Can this block be saved? 1986 Inline-6 115

Bill, In my opinion you will be further ahead to locate another block that has less damage, or no damage. You can certainly use the good parts from this block to build/rebuild another.
I agree with Droll that it could be repaired, however, since you are in the US there is a good chance you can find another block. Its a little more difficult to find good blocks in Norway and Canada since there were not as many engines originally. Personally, I am guilty of driving to Chicago to get an abused but repairable 1500 block.
When you undress the crank you will have a good chance to evaluate it. Bear in mind that the rod stub did hit the block, possibly numerous times and the crank may be "out of whack". Any of the later( 73 and up) inline 6 cranks are direct replacements.
​

 

[Robj]

Re: Can this block be saved? 1986 Inline-6 115

Like the others have said already, I would start looking for a new block and crank. The crank may look OK, but after that type of impact there is a good chance it is "out of whack".

Good luck and have a great day

Rob.

 

[deerhuntre]

Re: Can this block be saved? 1986 Inline-6 115

So, I've found a handful of candidates nearby or not so nearby to use as a bolt-on solution. However, they are all pre-1983 115's, so I think they all have distributors.

Couldn't I use one of these as-is for now, but when or if the need arises, use the block from it with my 1986 ignition parts and my 1986 carbs, etc, to build a shaft-rated 115 with the newer AID ignition?

And, from what I've read, one of these older units would be more like a newer 90, right? (which should be plenty for my boat, which weighs 1125 lbs dry).

 

[Droll]

Re: Can this block be saved? 1986 Inline-6 115

So, I've found a handful of candidates nearby or not so nearby to use as a bolt-on solution. However, they are all pre-1983 115's, so I think they all have distributors.

Couldn't I use one of these as-is for now, but when or if the need arises, use the block from it with my 1986 ignition parts and my 1986 carbs, etc, to build a shaft-rated 115 with the newer AID ignition?

The first ADI engine came mid 1979.
ALL inline 6 engines between 73 And 88 will bolt on.

Use the carbs that came with the specific engine, mixing carbs between the different inlines are not a good idea.

Try to find a later 140hp ( with ADI )
or a 115 about the following serials # ( 115 prop rated )

• U.S. Serial No. - 5829464 and above
• Australian Serial No.- 8071 135 and above
• Canadian Serial No. -7171253 and above

Arne Kjetil

 

[Droll]

Re: Can this block be saved? 1986 Inline-6 115

The crank may look OK, but after that type of impact there is a good chance it is "out of whack".

I would be very surprised if the bearing surface itself didn't have any damage....
Have seen cranks go bad with a lot less piston damage... not worth fixing unless it a very special crankshaft ( inline cranks can be found for for $50 > $100 ).

Fixing a crank can be done ( I have done it ) but it has it's cost....( I paid over $500....NOT a std inline crank thou, was a T2 )


Arne Kjetil

 

[SuzukiChopper]

Re: Can this block be saved? 1986 Inline-6 115

Look at the splines at the end of the crank. They look bent in your first picture. If they are and aren't supposed to be curvy and wavy (pretty sure they should be straight), you'll NEVER get the timing set correctly. Maybe it's just the angle and the camera causing an illusion?

 

[Droll]

Re: Can this block be saved? 1986 Inline-6 115

you'll NEVER get the timing set correctly.

Those spines should be straight, BUT done right there should NOT be a problem to get the correct timing....
( first point on order when timing an inline.. align the timing pointer with a dial gage, confirm .464" before TDC.)

I would have bean more worried about the potential UFO spinning at 5800 rpm back there....IF the splines are twisted....what happens next.


Arne Kjetil

 

[deerhuntre]

Re: Can this block be saved? 1986 Inline-6 115

Here's two photo's of the splines:

 

[Laddies]

Re: Can this block be saved? 1986 Inline-6 115

There is no economical way that engine can be repaired, it needs major block repair $300+on the bad Cly, probably the other 5 re-bored at $50+ a cyl plus the pistons $700+ and a rebuilt crank $650+ That $1900 to start with less gaskets and god knows what else. You must have a ADI block for a replacement, if worst came to worst even a rebuildable one with a good crank would be a much better place to start.

 

[deerhuntre]

Re: Can this block be saved? 1986 Inline-6 115

I see.

So there are a few mid 1970's 115's in the area that are less than $300 for a working powerhead with good, consistent compression. I haven't seen any older 140's or newer 115's nearby and am thinking of bolting on one of those 1970's 115s.

Now, this approach does not align with the suggestions of finding either a pre 1979 140 or a post 1983 115 and I'm curious to know if there are compelling reasons why I should not bolt on a pre-1979 115?

 

[daveswaves]

Re: Can this block be saved? 1986 Inline-6 115

I see.

So there are a few mid 1970's 115's in the area that are less than $300 for a working powerhead with good, consistent compression. I haven't seen any older 140's or newer 115's nearby and am thinking of bolting on one of those 1970's 115s.

Now, this approach does not align with the suggestions of finding either a pre 1979 140 or a post 1983 115 and I'm curious to know if there are compelling reasons why I should not bolt on a pre-1979 115?

The main reason is that in 1984 or so the rateings changed from crankshaft to propshaft rating. So, a pre 1983 115 is only 90 hp by todays standards. The post 83 115 would have the power ported pistons and block and would be a true propshaft rated 115hp. Having said that, there is nothing wrong with the pre 83 115, its a nice solid engine that puts out around 90 hp.

 

[daveswaves]

Re: Can this block be saved? 1986 Inline-6 115

Clearly judging by the splines the crank is gone. If the other pistons are not scuffed you can probably sell them on ebay, or keep them to rebuild a later model block if you do come across one.

 

[Faztbullet]

Re: Can this block be saved? 1986 Inline-6 115

If you go with a older distributer model get the controls as your will not works as wiring is totally different.

 

[deerhuntre]

Re: Can this block be saved? 1986 Inline-6 115

Funny you mention...I just picked up a 1978 115 and noticed the control harness was totally different. So, luckily the seller didn't need or want the controls and gave them to me.

So, the new to me '78 has no lower unit because of a bent prop shaft, so I need to decide if I should bolt on my lower unit to the '78 or bolt the '78 powerhead to my leg/lower unit.

The '78 does not have power tilt/trim but my '86 does, so I also need to look at a solution for a toggle to power the tilt/trim.

I'll look closer at the controls tomorrow. It's late, I'm tired and need to pour a cold beer now.

Thank you all for all the great advice so far!!

 

[Droll]

Re: Can this block be saved? 1986 Inline-6 115

The '78 does not have power tilt/trim but my '86 does, so I also need to look at a solution for a toggle to power the tilt/trim.

Use your 86 leg/trim/lower unit, you can also use your newer control, it will take you an hour ( includes fetching a beer.. or two )to rewire the engine, no big problem.

Switch box needs power from the battery ( tru ingition )
+ some wiring to be able to stop the engine.

Find and study the 2 schematics ( Dist, and ADI engine ), no problem at all .


Arne Kjetil

 

[deerhuntre]

Re: Can this block be saved? 1986 Inline-6 115

Excellent! This sounds like the best approach. Thank you again! I can't wait to get home to work on this. I even brought my service manual to work to study during lunch!!