need advice on painting outboard

rsimmons42

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Aug 25, 2008
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Need advice? I have a 1977 Johnson 70hp. Model # 70EL77S. It is painted Blue right now. I don?t know if this is the color that it was originally. I am wanting to paint it the OEM color. Is there anyway that I can find out what was the factory color when produced.

Second, does anyone have experience with painting the engine while it is on the Transom? I do not have a engine hoist. Is this possible? Want to have it looking as good as possible when done. Any advice/info from anyone would be much appreciated.
 

Lodgepole

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Re: need advice on painting outboard

I have painted several engines off and on the boat. Just use a zink chromate primer on bare aluminum. I painted a 72 Johnson 70 on a pontoon boat and it came out real nice. No paint came off after 2 years before I sold it. Factory paint is through the roof and it is laquer. Krylon is also laquer and a whole lot cheaper. You can usually find a color that is so close no one would know the difference. I have used both factory paint and Krylon with equal results. You can get factory paint from a dealer although he may have to order it. Factory paint can be had on line too but then the shipping will eat your lunch. By all means, get it clean, feather edge chipped paint with wet or dry 320 sand paper (sand wet), Use Gunk or equal automotive engine de-greaser and clean and scrub every crack before you put on any primer or paint. Lightly sand all painted surfaces before you start primer and sand after primer with 360 wet or dry paper (wet). Clean off all signs of dried sanding dust and you are ready for the paint. Just be sure you get plenty of paint on. Don't rush it, use several thin wet coats. Paint 1 section at a time and cover what you have already painted so you don,t get overspray. Give it a few days to harden before you do any polishing. Good Luck!!!!!!!!!!
 

Tim Frank

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5,333
Re: need advice on painting outboard

You should ask a moderator to repost this/move it to the Johnson/Evenrude forum just up the page.
You will have the right audience and your answer in a flash.
 

Mark_VTfisherman

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Re: need advice on painting outboard

.....Krylon is also lacquer and a whole lot cheaper. You can usually find a color that is so close no one would know the difference.....

Tim-

Spray cans do a really good job on small projects like motorcycles and boat motors. I have used Duplicolor in multitudes of colors and countless projects for years, although the last few years it is getting hard to find in colors other than white, black and a few variants.

If you have trouble finding acrylic lacquer in spray cans, try NAPA and Walmart.

Degreasing and tacking off before the primer goes on is most important. I use enamel reducer on a rag, but be careful to use a thick fold of rag so your skin doesn't absorb the solvent. Sometimes plastic parts come out better when you use flexible plastic primer. If there is bare plastic, paint may orange peel at the transition between factory paint and the plastic, although this is rare. Flexible bumper primer has solved this for me.

Paint inside a carport or garage or something out of the sun, wind, and bug fly-zones. You can buy an inexpensive respirator if you don't have one that will keep you from breathing paint.

When you prime, make sure you spray it on heavy enough that it levels out, but not so heavy that it runs or sags, and then let it dry really well and wet sand it. Then let it dry again, tack it off, and you are ready for finish paint.

When spraying on the finish paint, again, spray it on heavy enough that the liquid surface can flow out or level out. Otherwise you will be left with a smooth but dull or rough finish without a good gloss. The first coat can be still slightly uncured yet still dry before the second coat.

Plan on three coats- after the second coat is your chance to wet sand with very fine wet-or-dry paper and correct any bugs, dust nibs, or shirt-sleeve woopsies. Tack it off, spray your last coat of color, and then when it is dry but not fully set, spray on a wet-but-not-runny coat of clear lacquer (clearcoat).

This should dry in ideal temps for several days before applying decals, and I would wait for 4 months before applying any wax, although I have hand-buffed a few motorcycle tanks after only a few days.

Good luck with it- hope it comes out really sharp for you.
 

NSBCraig

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Aug 21, 2007
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1,907
Re: need advice on painting outboard

I just used Moeller acrylic lacquer that I bought at a local marina.

It says it's for JOhnson/rude 1972-2004 (#25461). $6.98

Although I think it's just in between enough to call it good.

Stuff doesn't cover for nothing. Primer is a good idea. Not much pigment, likes to run.

Finished motor looks a lot better but I don't know.

I'm not gonna spend too much time on a 77' motor.

Wasn't really looking to restore just wanted it to look better and have some protection.
 

rsimmons42

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 25, 2008
Messages
194
Re: need advice on painting outboard

Everyone,

Thank you soo much for all the amazing advice, I plan on takling this job starting next week. After the clearcoat, how long should I wait before my first trip into water? This is my first boat and am driving my wife crazy. I am always so excited to get home from work and get started on it. I will post some pictures later with progress.

If anyone still has some advice I will continue to look at this thread to see what is out there.

Thanks
 

KLINDWW

Seaman
Joined
Aug 27, 2008
Messages
70
Re: need advice on painting outboard

I have a 76 70 hp Johnson that I am repainting also. I don?t think that it was originally blue. Mine is white or actually an off white. I just finished the motor cover and found out some things about the colors. First of all the year models on the Tempo and the OMC spray cans do not match. If you want to find out what the OMC color was you can go to shop2.evinrude.com. Actually the older color of white was to cream color for me so I went with the newer color white that they used up till 2004. The comment about the paint not covering for crap is correct and the paint spit all over the place. Not a good experience. I finally got the PPG number (90538) from the above mentioned site and went to the local PPG paint store and bought a two stage paint that I used on the motor cover. As far as the comment about the clear coat, if you use it at all, use it only on the upper and the lower motor cover. Not anything that will be in the water. You will be sorry that you did. It will look great and shiny all over and you will be so proud until you put it in the water and the clear coat starts to wear away. If you have ever seen an older car that the clear coat has started to disappear in places you will know what I mean. Just use the paint (no clear coat) from the motor covers on down. It will make it much easier to touch up the nicks also. As far a painting it on the transom, you can do it, you just have to tape and mask everything off. It would be far easier to remove the motor if you can find a way. All of the above mentioned advice is also good especially about the zinc chromate primer. The only thing that I would add to that is that any place that you get down to the bare aluminum, before you spray the zinc chromate primer, wipe it down the a 50/50 solution of white vinegar and water. Also if you want to replace the decals, I got mine off a site on e-bay. I don?t remember the name of the place, but I typed in Johnson Motor Decals. Hey, good luck and hope this info helps.
 

Mark_VTfisherman

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Re: need advice on painting outboard

....As far as the comment about the clear coat, if you use it at all, use it only on the upper and the lower motor cover. Not anything that will be in the water. You will be sorry that you did. It will look great and shiny all over and you will be so proud until you put it in the water and the clear coat starts to wear away. If you have ever seen an older car that the clear coat has started to disappear in places you will know what I mean. Just use the paint (no clear coat) from the motor covers on down.....

Good point. I have never cleared out a motor leg, just stuff above the water, so this issue isn't anything I have run into.

BTW- part of the reason I mentioned planning on three coats is because spray-bomb lacquer does not hide well- takes three coats to cover!
 
Last edited:

ljc1957

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Aug 30, 2007
Messages
169
Re: need advice on painting outboard

rsimmons42, I painted my outboard with Rustoleum spray paint. I put a coat of primer on first, then several coats of white industrial spray paint. I then covered with several coats of clearcoat. Going on the second season and no problems. Just make sure you cover anything you don't want painted.
 
D

DJ

Guest
Re: need advice on painting outboard

I agree that the Tempo and OMC spray paint was/is miserable to work with.

I end getting VERY close with the Rust Oleum Industrial paints from Lowes (huge selection). It holds up well.

I also agree on no clear below the water line. I stopped "clearing" altogether. The R.O. Industrial shines as good as the old paint did when new. After a few waxings, they look even better.

Depending on the color of the boat, I tend to turn all my OMC's into Johnsons (white).:D
 

Mark_VTfisherman

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Re: need advice on painting outboard

I agree that the Tempo and OMC spray paint was/is miserable to work with.

Spray acrylic lacquer can be tough to work with if you are not used to it and don't use it a lot. The Tempo and OMC stuff is lacquer.

I don't do as much messing around with projects these days, but I can still spray pretty well, rattle can or not. My first attempts when I was a teenager had runs and frustration built in:redface:! But I had an older friend who owned a garage and had a body man on hand. I shadowed him a few days off and on- then everything got better!

You can get an automotive showroom shine and finish out of rattle-can lacquer, but it does take a number of coats and good technique. The spray cans actually are more forgiving than body shop lacquer paint was. Acrylic lacquer is almost obsolete in body shops these days however. Better stuff is made for the new HVLP guns than lacquer ever was.

Enamels "build" a lot faster, so they appear to "cover" quickly but are very forgiving as well. However, if you need a car-show-shine, lacquer is the way to go. If you are not cursed with annality as I and some other unfortunates are, then Rustoleum may be OK with you. I am not saying that a Rustoleum job can't look good- just that some of us are compelled to do things the hard way ;)

rsimmons42: don't forget to post pictures after :)
 

rsimmons42

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Aug 25, 2008
Messages
194
Re: need advice on painting outboard

Mark_VTFisherman

Thanks for the information, I will post pictures as soon as I paint it. I am 90% through replacing the deck. Then I am going to take the boat to the service shop to have the lower unit removed. Some idiot used a flat head screw when they couldn't find the bolt. I will have them replace all the seals while they are in there. Then when I get it back I will start on the project.

Thanks again
 

Tim Frank

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Joined
Jul 29, 2008
Messages
5,333
Re: need advice on painting outboard

You should ask a moderator to repost this/move it to the Johnson/Evenrude forum just up the page.
You will have the right audience and your answer in a flash.

Or just leave it here and the right audience will find it....:)
 

KLINDWW

Seaman
Joined
Aug 27, 2008
Messages
70
Re: need advice on painting outboard

Enamels "build" a lot faster, so they appear to "cover" quickly but are very forgiving as well. However, if you need a car-show-shine, lacquer is the way to go. If you are not cursed with annality as I and some other unfortunates are, then Rustoleum may be OK with you. I am not saying that a Rustoleum job can't look god- just that some of us are compelled to do things the hard way ;)


Just finished with my motor cover and got the decals on it last weekend. Looks great, my buddies can?t believe how good it looks. One told me yesterday that it looked better than the paint job on his new Ford truck. Now it makes the rest of the motor look like s**t. Now I will be taking the removing the lower unit, taking the power head off and taking the rest of the outboard apart. Bead blasting and repainting the rest of the motor. Annulity, it is a curse.
 

5150abf

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5,808
Re: need advice on painting outboard

Just redid my '81 50 and used Dupli Color from Auto Zone, T155- Light Blue, real close match to factory, I had mine off the boat and stripped it back to metal though.

If you are going to clear use a different brand of clear as the Dupli Color clear had a matte finish i didn't like, I painted my boat at the same time and had extra auto clear so I used that.

Prep is the key to any paint job, the finished product is directly related to how much you spend on prep, if you just want to hit it with some new color just wipe it off with laquer thinner, if you want a really nice job you will have to hit it with some 320 paper, just scuff, you don't need to take it all the way to metal unless that is what you want.

Hit it with a paint scraper to make sure your base paint is still stuck to the motor, mine looked good until I did that and the base paint came off in big sheets, as stated, anywhere you have bare metal use etching primer.

Getting the engine off the baot only requires 2 ratchet straps and a roof joist, just alternate straps till it is clear of the boat, then hang it from both just to be safe.

Here is mine done,
 

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Mark_VTfisherman

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Re: need advice on painting outboard

......If you are going to clear use a different brand of clear as the Dupli Color clear had a matte finish i didn't like, I painted my boat at the same time and had extra auto clear so I used that.

Duplicolor also has an "enamel" clear- I hope you are referring to that and they have not changed their acrylic lacquer clear. I have had great results with Duplicolor clear in the past, and plan to do my Suzuki 40 before ice-out, so I hope they have not changed it. Mine is silver, but the Smoke Black of the newer motors is really appealing to me. Bought a pair of red Suzuki "S" decals on eBay, and my local vinyl graphics guy will cut the other decals I need for next to nothing. That will give me the added benefit of covering the last 20 years of weather, scratches, and chips. Duplicolor had a black metallic "Truck and Van Paint" that has the same "smoke" look and nice metallic. I have always hated the silver!

Prep is the key to any paint job, the finished product is directly related to how much [time] you spend on prep...if you want a really nice job you will have to hit it with some 320 paper...

Hard foam (like a cheap sleeping bad pad) glued to a pine block makes a good soft base for 320-wet-and-dry for sanding.

Here is mine done,

Looks nice- you have the curse too, eh? :)
 

5150abf

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Re: need advice on painting outboard

I actaully did use a thick foam with an adhesive backing and stuck the sand paper to it.

If you are talking about analitis, yes I have an advanced case, both the motor and the boat have been wet sanded with 2000 grit and buffed, I wasn't gonna do it but there was just this one area with orange peel I was gonna get, well now the area next to it doesn't look right, before you know it I have wet sanded the entire boat, looks really nice though.

I had just spray bombed the motor on the boat at least twice and thought since I was repainting the boat I may as well restore the motor too.

I am working on the inside stuff now, rod holders, console ect.

It doesn't hurt that I have 3 weeks off, lots of time to kill ya know.
 

rsimmons42

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Aug 25, 2008
Messages
194
I decided to start my work on the motor cover

I decided to start my work on the motor cover

The cover is the original cover that came with the engine the engine is a 1977 70 hp. That makes the engine 32 years old. Over the years the engine had been three colors, original white, then a gold with sparkles(figured this was in during the early 80's then the blue that you see in the photos. There are large holes measuring 3" in diamater on both sides. I fiberglassed the back then filled with bondo. There are also about 25 small .250 holes all over the place. All holes were filled with bondo and sanded. The whole unit then was sanded and primed with etching primer (3 coats were sufficient)


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looks pretty bad huh? Now before you look at the after photos, for you people that want to go back to original on everything (I agree) but in this cercumstance I went with what will match the boat the best. Mirror Black.
 

rsimmons42

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Aug 25, 2008
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Now the after photos

Now the after photos

Again I did not go with the original color, but am very pleased with the results.

3 coats of etching primer then wet sanded, then 3 coats of black, wet sanded, then two medium coats of black, wet sanded again (1000 grit)

2 coats of clear coat(wet sanded) then two more coats of clear coat, The original style of decals were not going to match the look that I was going for, so I went with a newer design, one that you see on Etec today.

Tell me what you think so far. Not bad for a first timer......

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