Resolved

diesel12

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Aug 5, 2008
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<Skip this if you're in a hurry - Old Problem left for archival>
Recently purchased a boat/motor/trailer combo, and went to fire it up.

Noticed with the cover off that the bottom right (sorta center-ish right really) pole on the rectifier began to arc and smoke just a bit as I gave it a little gas.

It appears upon examining the part closer that the nut must have rusted on and the previous owner must have tried to remove it and broke the pole a bit. It spins with a wrench, but it's the screw and not the nut moving. Anyhow, there is a yellow wire and a grey wire connected to this pole, but the nut is not snug, so both wires can move a bit (the circular wire harness end piece moves in and out on the terminal) When I gave it gas, it began to arc, so I quickly shut it down. I couldn't tell if it was just arcing back to the terminal that those wires were on, or if it was going to of of the other rectifier poles.

Lastly, the yellow wire connecting to the rectifier appears to go up underneath the flywheel somehow, so I assumed it was a wire for the stator? This wire is heavily corroded and much of the insulation on the wire has fallen off and become brittle. My question is what to do? Can I strip back the wire until I get to a good point and then splice another piece to extend it to the rectifier? If no, does this wire come from the stator, or somewhere else, and do I need to replace the whole part? I got this old boat for a steal, but need to put some cash into seats and other things, so if I can splice in a wire and replace the rectifier, I'd prefer to do that. Thanks!
<Stop Skipping>

As mentioned in the post below... I've replaced the rectifier and now I get nothing from the starter it seems like. Turning the key makes some clicks, but nothing else. Could I have the wiring wrong? I was pretty careful with the rectifier wires, and they both look to connect to a neg(-) pole on the rectifier, so it doesn't look like it should matter.... Help! Thanks.
 
Last edited:

This_lil_fishy

Master Chief Petty Officer
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Jul 23, 2008
Messages
841
Re: 1982 50HP arcing on bottom right pole of rectifier

Re: 1982 50HP arcing on bottom right pole of rectifier

You could cover the wire with some heat shrink as a temp fix, but you may end up replacing that stator, and definately replace the rectifier/regulator. That arcing could cause an engine fire when you least desire it. Actually another thing about arcing is that it creates ozone, which will degrade the wiring/hoses in that area. We see this with our DC motors at work, the older ones used wiring that was susceptible to this..and we regularly see them with hard brittle wire insulation. Not a safe condition at any time.

Ian
 

diesel12

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Re: 1982 50HP arcing on bottom right pole of rectifier

Re: 1982 50HP arcing on bottom right pole of rectifier

So would it be ok to go up about halfway between the rectifier and the flywheel and splice in the same gauge wire? I could do the heatshrink, but I'm worried as the wire appears so oxidized where it's been exposed, and the exposed portion is probably a couple inches long.

Thanks for the reply!
 

pcindian

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Aug 3, 2008
Messages
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Re: 1982 50HP arcing on bottom right pole of rectifier

Re: 1982 50HP arcing on bottom right pole of rectifier

That yellow wire for sure is a lead to the stator. Dont know if splicing it would affect it as far as ohm readings or not better wait for someone with more knowledge on that before splicing it.
 

j_martin

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Sep 22, 2006
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7,474
Re: 1982 50HP arcing on bottom right pole of rectifier

Re: 1982 50HP arcing on bottom right pole of rectifier

So would it be ok to go up about halfway between the rectifier and the flywheel and splice in the same gauge wire? I could do the heatshrink, but I'm worried as the wire appears so oxidized where it's been exposed, and the exposed portion is probably a couple inches long.

Thanks for the reply!


If the insulation seems good from the fault to the stator, I would cut and splice a new wire at that point.


If the wire is tinned, you can solder it pretty easily. If it's not, and is covered with a black oxide, it will not take solder. When I have to deal with that, I fan out the strands, and brush them or lightly scrape them till I get some shine. Then fan them out in another direction and do the same, repeating till at least 50 percent of each wire is shiny. Then you can solder it. It might not be pretty, but it will usually be fine.

Use a good, preferably 60/40, or a lead free electrical (rosin core) solder, and heat shrink. In marine work, I use a high quality heat shrink with an adhesive lining. I get it at Fastenal.

Be careful how you jerk and pull on the wire. It can break at the stator, leaving no way to repair it. Also be sure it clears the flywheel when you finally strap it in.


hope it helps
John
 

This_lil_fishy

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 23, 2008
Messages
841
Re: 1982 50HP arcing on bottom right pole of rectifier

Re: 1982 50HP arcing on bottom right pole of rectifier

^^^ What he said, in particular the adhesive type heat shrink. I use it on all my automotive/boating wiring and have never had a solder joint fail. Even on the trailer lights!

It's also available at Canadian Tire (for those in Canada) and is called dual wall heat shrink. Basically hot glue inside the heat shrink.

Ian
 

diesel12

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Re: 1982 50HP arcing on bottom right pole of rectifier

Re: 1982 50HP arcing on bottom right pole of rectifier

I replaced the rectifier, and re did the wires coming from the stator. I used some heat shrink, and re attached everything carefully. Now however.... When I go to turn it over... nothing. Couple of clicks, and it's like the starter doesn't engage. Any idea what I could have done wrong?
 

akbar

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Joined
Jul 22, 2008
Messages
5
Re: Resolved

Sounds to me like you may just have a dead battery. If it hasn't been being charged likely it is. Put a voltmeter on your battery and check it out
 
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