60 sitting up for 25 years.

bankermike

Seaman
Joined
Jan 31, 2006
Messages
70
I've aquired a late 60's or early 70's 60 h.p. Johnson that has been in a garage for 25 years or so. The motor was in running condition when it was removed from a boat and stored 25 years ago. The motor has'nt been touched since.
I'm wanting to try to bring it back to life and put it on a pontoon boat. I'm looking for suggestions for where to begin and what steps I need to take to get her running.
I'm planning on Cleaning the carbs and putting carb kits in them, putting in a new water pump, changing the lower unit lube and putting in fresh plugs. Am I missing anything?
Thanks!

Michael
 

bankermike

Seaman
Joined
Jan 31, 2006
Messages
70
Re: 60 sitting up for 25 years.

Thanks for the links. I did some checking and found out it's a Model 60 ESL-71C. This means it's a 1971 model, correct? I can now order carb & fuel pump rebuild kits plus a new impeller.
Does anyone have a link to where I can get the specs. on this motor?

Thanks again.

Michael
 

F_R

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
28,195
Re: 60 sitting up for 25 years.

If you are going to own and use that motor, and work on it yourself, you need a factory service manual. Or stumble along hoping you do something right and probably make some expensive mistakes. www.outboardbooks.com
 

tashasdaddy

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
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Nov 11, 2005
Messages
51,019
Re: 60 sitting up for 25 years.

i totally and completely agree with F_R. it is a hydro-electric shift lower unit.

this is the gospel on that lower unit.

Hydro Electric Shift)
(J. Reeves)

The shifting setup of the lower unit is what's called a "Hydro Electric Shift", which is quite complex consisting of voltage being applied to solenoids in the lower unit which in turn change oil passages via a oil pump that supplies various pressure on a spring loaded shifter dog. The wires leading to the lower unit (at the powerhead) are "Green" and "Blue". The engine must be running or cranking over in order to shift out of forward gear.

You CAN NOT use HI VIS lube in that lower unit. You MUST USE what OMC calls "Premium Blend" lube, commonly called "Type C". (A thinner lube)

In neutral, you need 12v to the "Green" wire.
In reverse, you need 12v to both wires, the "Green" one and the "Blue" one.
In forward, there should be no voltage to either wire. (The spring loaded shifter dog forces the unit into forward gear)

To check the lower unit for proper shifting to make sure you have no trouble there, remove the spark plugs to avoid problems and to allow a higher cranking speed.

This next step eliminates the actual shift switch in case problems may exist there.... Disconnect the blue & green wires at the knife connectors (the rubber insulated boots) leading to the lower unit at the powerhead, then using jumpers, take voltage direct from the starter solenoid to apply voltage to the "Green" wire for neutral, then both wires 'Green" & "Blue" for reverse (Remember the engine must be cranking over in order to shift).
With no voltage applied, the unit should be in forward. No need for a ground jumper... the lower unit's already grounded. You may crank the engine with the key switch or by energizing the starter solenoid with a jumper wire.
 

bankermike

Seaman
Joined
Jan 31, 2006
Messages
70
Re: 60 sitting up for 25 years.

The control box I was planning on using is off an old 73-74 50 hp Evinrude. Will it work with the 60 Johnson? How do I know for sure it has the Hydro electric shift?

Thanks

Michael
 

bankermike

Seaman
Joined
Jan 31, 2006
Messages
70
Re: 60 sitting up for 25 years.

Thanks again for the help. It looks like I better take Y'all's advice & purchase a manual for the motor. I've seen some CD manuals on the internet. Are these any good?
 

bankermike

Seaman
Joined
Jan 31, 2006
Messages
70
Re: 60 sitting up for 25 years.

Is the service manual all I need? I see there's an owner's manual, parts cat. and accessory cat.
 

bankermike

Seaman
Joined
Jan 31, 2006
Messages
70
Re: 60 sitting up for 25 years.

The carbs have been soaked & I'm going to put the rebuild kits in them this weekend. I also now have a service manual. The old motor had some wiring damage (mice) so now I can replace those with the help of the service manual. All the fuel lines need replacing which I'll do when I reinstall the carbs. I'm still trying to run down a Hydro-Electric control box & harness. I'm hoping to try to start it this weekend. I'll report back Monday with hopefully some good news.
I want to thank everyone for their help. This is a great forum with a lot of good people willing to share their knowledge.

Thank you.

Michael
 

Benny1963

Lieutenant
Joined
Sep 17, 2006
Messages
1,476
Re: 60 sitting up for 25 years.

hey banker mike i believe that you can also use the evinrude pushbutton elec shift from those years ,will look good on ebay for ya.
bennyb
 

bankermike

Seaman
Joined
Jan 31, 2006
Messages
70
Re: 60 sitting up for 25 years.

Well...my luck was'nt so good. I hooked everything (without the wiring harness) as described by F R in another thread but I'm not getting spark to the plugs. I'm really not sure what to try next. I had some wires that were chewed my mice but I thought I had repaired all of them. My manual has procedures for checking the ignition components but they all begin with "with the key in the on posistion". Of course, I don't have a key because I don't have a control box. I don't know if I should go ahead a purchase the High $ Hydro-Electric control box and wiring harness or proceed in another direction or cut my losses and abandon this motor. I sure would like to know what the problem is before I give up on it.
Benny, do you know if the Evinrude pushbutton shifters have the same wiring harness (yellow cannon plug, I'm told) as the Johnson Hydro-Electric shifters? I've seen several on eBay but they don't appear to have the sam hookup.
Once again, thanks for the help.

Michael
 

tashasdaddy

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Nov 11, 2005
Messages
51,019
Re: 60 sitting up for 25 years.

michael there are black plugs, yellow and red, you need the yellow. black are for another typed electric lower. red is for mechanical shifts.
 
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