10 hp Sportwin

[KRH]

I have been fiddling with a 1960 10 hp Sportwin on and off this summer. I have about $300.00 in it including the purchase price. It still won't run right, have I reached the break even point on this thing yet, what is its worth up and running. I think it will run, have done a carb rebuild, new water pump, new seals in lower unit,(found out it now needs the U shaped piece in the lower unit that shifts from forward to reverse). Also how do you do a decarb? Sorry about being long winded, have been hanging around here for some time reading all the excellent info and thought it was time to ask. This is a great place. Thanks

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: 10 hp Sportwin

Decarb, take a can of seafoam put 3/4 of it in the gas tank, with only 1 gallon of premixed gas. put the rest in a spray bottle. start the engine, and let it come up to temperature. then remove plugs, and them some real good shot of seafoam into the cylinders, replace plugs, let sit 15 minutes. restart, and spray the rest of the seafoam into the carbs, so the the motor almost stalls, wait and repeat until the seafoam is gone. then put in new plugs, ad premixed gas to the tank, and take it for a wide open throttle spin. it is going to smoke like a house on fire, during this process.

afterwards recheck compression.

 

[HighTrim]

Re: 10 hp Sportwin

Welcome to iboats. What you need to ask yourself is what is the motor worth to you? Do you plan on keeping it? Sometimes the peace of mind of having a sound motor is worth the financial aspect of it. What other issues are you having? You are definately at the right spot, there are many guys on here very knowledgeable in the older motors.

 

[F_R]

Re: 10 hp Sportwin

I can't bring myself to say it again....somebody tell him what to check on that 1960 OMC product.

 

[samo_ott]

Re: 10 hp Sportwin

What is wrong with it that it's not 'running right'?

And a 10hp from that era around here is worth maybe $250 or so... Maybe a tad more if it's all been rebuilt as you've done it...

Oh yeah, and as FR meant to say, replace the coils...

Oh, and finally, if the shifter is rusted on the bottom it means a lot of water sat in there and you'd better check the LU for rust, etc.

 

[jbjennings]

Re: 10 hp Sportwin

I have been fiddling with a 1960 10 hp Sportwin on and off this summer. I have about $300.00 in it including the purchase price. It still won't run right, have I reached the break even point on this thing yet, what is its worth up and running. I think it will run, have done a carb rebuild, new water pump, new seals in lower unit,(found out it now needs the U shaped piece in the lower unit that shifts from forward to reverse). Also how do you do a decarb? Sorry about being long winded, have been hanging around here for some time reading all the excellent info and thought it was time to ask. This is a great place. Thanks

Just curious....you said it won't run right, but then said you think it will run. Does it run at all and if so, what's it doing that you don't like. If you replaced ALL the lower unit seals then you have done most of the hard work. It sounds really fishy that the saddle thing for the shifter is not present. Did you lose it or was it not there when you took the l.u. apart? I can't imagine it not being there as the motor would be useless without it. If your carb rebuild was right and it's adjusted right, probably the only thing you could have trouble with if it has good compression is your coils and condensors, or incorrect points gap. You'd better not let F-R know you didn't replace the coils! You'll be in for a severe scolding. Good spark and good fuel and that ol' thing will run like new I'll bet. Give us some more info on how it runs, pretty please.
Good luck--and a good JOHNSON outboard is well worth 300 bucks to me!
JBJ

 

[HighTrim]

Re: 10 hp Sportwin

Change those coilssssss FR some are listening

 

[jbjennings]

Re: 10 hp Sportwin

Sorry guy, it looks like F-R has already caught you!
I couldn't type fast enough!
JBJ

 

[samo_ott]

Re: 10 hp Sportwin

And did you do a compression test on it? What numbers did you get?

 

[KRH]

Re: 10 hp Sportwin

It will run, but is hard to start, wont idle, will run like crazy wide open, even scares me the way it screams, then dies. DID NOT CHANGE COILS, sorry, had to get a new flywheel as other was bent from someone else using gear puller on it, so may be a little out of time, also replaced aluminum ring under the flywheel as one of the holes was stripped. There was no shift yoke in lower unit, found out one was supposed to there while looking at a veiw at the boat shop. I paid $150.00 for it and got about another $150.00 in parts. This is my first boat motor but have rebuilt many gas engines and have a well equiped shop, I'm not one to give up, just didn't want to put money into a dead horse. You guys are on the ball, thanks for the replies and advice!

 

[KRH]

Re: 10 hp Sportwin

Sorry, did not do compression, what should it read, how many pulls on the rope to get the reading?

 

[KRH]

Re: 10 hp Sportwin

One more time sorry, the metal shift U is there in lower unit, but not the aluminum (?) piece that slides the gear back and forth to change from forward to reverse.

 

[jbjennings]

Re: 10 hp Sportwin

I'm no expert on compression, but just keep pulling 3 or 4 times until you get the highest reading. Also, take the other spark plug out when you test it. I suspect if it's in good shape you'll have over 80 lbs. My 18 hp has 105 lbs. but I think the 10 hp.'s have a little less. The lower unit should have that u-shaped piece and the shifter shaft should be connected with a swivel that holds a u-shaped bracket that slides down on the u-shaped piece and the bracket is made of steel. The bracket swivels on a pin that screws throught the lower unit from the outside. If it runs like crazy and then dies, your compression is probably fine. If it runs fast then dies, it sounds like your float may be off or sticking or your fuel pump is not getting enough fuel in the carb. Your coils could also be the culprit if they're old but it sounds like a fuel problem the way you describe it.
good luck,
JBJ

 

[HighTrim]

Re: 10 hp Sportwin

(Compression & Spark Test)
(J. Reeves)

1st - Regardless of what problem one might encounter, always start with the basic troubleshooting procedure. Check the compression which should be in the range of 100+ psi (somewhat less on the smaller hp engines) and even on all cylinders.

2nd - With the spark plugs removed, rig up some type of spark tester whereas you can set a gap to be jumped. On magneto ignition systems.... and also the Battery Capacitance Ignition system OMC engines from 1968 to 1972, set the gap to 1/4". On the solid state OMC ignition systems from 1973 to the present, set the gap to 7/16". The spark should jump the gap with a strong blue lightning like flame..... a real strong blue snap!

If there was no spark, on engines from 1973 up, disconnect the RED main electrical plug at the engine. Remove the s/plugs. crank the engine via the starter solenoid (jumper bat term to small 3/8" term nut, not the ground nut) and observe spark. If spark is now okay as stated above, the usual cause is a shorted ignition switch.

If the above checks out as it should, and the engine dies out when throttle is applied or won't idle, it is usually due to one or both of two things. The carburetors are fouled, in which case the cure would be to remove, clean, and rebuild them..... or the timer base under the flywheel is sticking which would result in a retarded spark. If the engine will not fire/start at all even though you have the proper spark and compression, it's usually due to fouled carburetors.

To check the timer base for sticking (Engine Not Running), spin the prop to align the shifter dog with forward gear and while doing so, put the engine into forward gear. Now, while watching the timer base, slowly apply throttle clear up to full throttle. The timer base should move smoothly all the way up against the black rubber cap that is atached to the end of the full advance spark setting screw. If the timer base sticks, find out why and correct that problem.

Usually any sticking of the timer base is caused by one of the four retaining clamps being slightly too tight. Putting a very thin washer under the clamp cures that problem. Some boaters use a thin screwdriver to bend the clamp upwards slightly but I prefer the thin washer. The sticking can also be caused by having a faulty stator start to melt down, resulting in a sticky substance dripping down on the timer base nylon retaining ring.

 

[KRH]

Re: 10 hp Sportwin

Thanks for all the advice, will keep at it. Its winter here in Pa now and because of work and weather, may not get a lot done on it but won't give up on it, I like the way it looks. I have a 1980 7.5 hp Evinrude that runs good and gets me up the river. Do I need to do anything to these motors to winterize, I have the 10 hp in a unheated shed, the 7.5 in a heated basement. One other stupid question, I was thinking that if I wanted to work on and run that 10hp, could I run it in a drum of water diluted with antifreeze to keep it from freezing for using outside in the winter?

 

[HighTrim]

Re: 10 hp Sportwin

Read the "Winterization " thread at the top of this forum. Good luck

 

[samo_ott]

Re: 10 hp Sportwin

Yes you could dilute the barrel with antifreeze. I'd use plumbing antifreeze though as it is non toxic. Regular AF is VERY toxic to everything around, you, animals, pets, etc... or you could use muffs... Personally I like barrel's though, but yes it is tough in the winter... And change your coils... Did you get a good look at them when you changed the flywheel? Were they cracked or old looking at all?

 

[KRH]

Re: 10 hp Sportwin

Are the coils your refering to have the plug wires attatached to them, if so they looked old and one of the plug wires came off, I just pushed it back on, but still got spark, so from what I'm hearing they must be changed. The antifreeze question was because I have access to used antifreeze out of trucks and heavy equipment.

 

[jbjennings]

Re: 10 hp Sportwin

I've had coils a couple of times that would knock your socks off when they accidentally shocked you but were still bad. If your coils are not brand new looking, change 'em. It'll probably fix your problem if your carb is clean. Yes, they have the plug wires going into 'em. Here's a pic of some awful ones but they'll show you what I mean. There are 3 screws holding them in. The center screw you will have to unscrew a ways, then pull up on it and unscrew it some more. They should come out very easy. Go ahead and replace your condensors and probably points too. The coils and such are very cheap. You can do a little shopping and get sierra coils for as cheap as 15.?? if you shop on line a while. The condensors are much cheaper. They sell them right here on Iboats. You may need to get a part # to find them easier on the web. Also, don't uncap your plugs and start your motor, as that will ruin your coils. Always have the plugs or wires grounded to the engine when you're testing them.
Good luck,
JBJ

 

[KRH]

Re: 10 hp Sportwin

I want to thank everyone for the help and great advice, I'm sure I'll be back for more help when I get back to it, hunting deer and rabbits right now.